correcting the coolabnt gague
Yeah, just replace the GM sender with an Autometer sender. The Autometer sender's threads are smaller than the GM sender's threads so you'll need a reducer fitting to make it snug.
I used the sender unit that came with my electrical Autometer Sport Comp water temp gauge. Don't know the exact part # for the sender. The water temp sender is located on the side of the drivers side head, towards the front.
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Verdad Gallardo was this what it looked like if it is i noticed that the sport comp gauges are 0-250 range while the stock is 0-260 range.. but my big big question is again does the gauge respond to temp changes or does it just sit at 180 deg all day long instead of 210
I read (I think in the Helm books) that the PCM jacks
around with the sender force current or voltage, and
at some point when it's semi-hot it changes the drive
abruptly (I presume for more temp accuracy where it
counts).
If the sender is used for a standalone gauge then it
ought to work fine. But tapping off one that's PCM-
driven might have some weirdness? Do you use a
different hole and a second sender for the standalone
gauge?
around with the sender force current or voltage, and
at some point when it's semi-hot it changes the drive
abruptly (I presume for more temp accuracy where it
counts).
If the sender is used for a standalone gauge then it
ought to work fine. But tapping off one that's PCM-
driven might have some weirdness? Do you use a
different hole and a second sender for the standalone
gauge?
makes sense... sorta, but isnt the factory temp sensor a two wire hook up? Then wouldnt you need to run one wire to the aftermarket sensor and then ground the other one? or did i miss that? i just used a standalone gauge and left it as is... but if this works then maybe i could have a little cleaner set up.. look forward to hearing more on this..
-kevin
-kevin
i was thinking ... i dont understand how that can work beacouse the stock sensor reads fine if you scan the pcm just he gauge is off if what your saying is true then even when you plugged a scan tool in the car would see 210* which is not the case..
Joined: Nov 2003
Posts: 11,328
Likes: 346
From: Jacksonville, FL (originally from Toronto Canada)
Changing the sensor won't have the desired effect on the gauge because the gauge is controlled by the PCM. The sendor is a variable resistor that shows lower resistance with higher temperature. The PCM interprets the resistance and sends a Class 2 data signal to the instrument cluster to control the gauge. If the sender is changed then the PCM will still read the resistance as though it was a factory sender and adjust the gauge in the same way. It is possible that the combination of a lower temp thermostat and a different sender would cause the resistance not to reach what the PCM considers the "normal" range so it wouldn't force the 210* reading. That would make it appear to read accurately until the temperature rises enough to reach the "normal" range when the PCM would just fix the gauge at 210*.
The best bet for fixing this "problem" is reprogramming the PCM - if that is a programmable option. Otherwise, a 98 PCM could be installed but I think there were a number of other changes between model years that could cause worse problems.
The best bet for fixing this "problem" is reprogramming the PCM - if that is a programmable option. Otherwise, a 98 PCM could be installed but I think there were a number of other changes between model years that could cause worse problems.
The factory gauge does fluctuate now that I replaced the sender. From a cold start it works its way up to about 180 or so, and then when I turn it off and let it sit it will work it's way down as the engine temp cools. It doesn't sit on 180 all the time, when it's hot it'll move between 180 and 210. When I flip my fan switches on it moves back down. It think it's probably as accurate as it can get with the factory gauge. If you want it to be perfect buy an aftermarket gauge and plug that sender in somewhere else. I believe there is a place to put it on the passenger side head by the #8 plug. The factory sender is a two wire hook up, the black is the signal wire and the yellow is a ground I believe. When you use the Autometer temp sender you only use the signal wire, no ground is necessary. I could not use the stock gauge and Autometer gauge at the same time when they were both hooked to the sender, so I ditched the Autometer and left the stock gauge hooked up because I had to have it working properly. JPR, it is the sender that came with the Sport Comp 0-250 electric sweep gauge.
Last edited by CRL 01 SS; Jul 28, 2005 at 03:52 PM.
cool i was curious about the grounding.. i have an aftermarket temp gauge right now with the sensor on the pass. head an it only used the 1 wire hook up as well. might just experimet with this tonight
Joined: Nov 2003
Posts: 11,328
Likes: 346
From: Jacksonville, FL (originally from Toronto Canada)
The factory sensor runs a separate ground wire to the engine block while aftermarket (single pin) units just ground directly through the sensor.