correcting the coolabnt gague
correcting the coolabnt gague what im tring to do is figure out what id need to do to make the temp gague im my 02 t\a be fairly accurate... ive heard their intentionally in accurate on the 99 and up modles so can i just buy a 98 's gague and slap it in to fix this problem??? im kinda lost on this one what do i have to replace to fix the gague it seems pritty dumb to have a dummy gague in our cars and id really like to know my coolant temp.... or can i modify the current gague to be more accurate???
no easy solution at this time.
you can't put a 98 cluster in your car, as the fuel level is different. :/
somebody needs to find the code in the gauge cluster, and figure out how to reflash it to be accurate. The cluster receives the correct data, but just registers 210 in the entire "normal" operating range, 186-226 (approx??)
Ryan
you can't put a 98 cluster in your car, as the fuel level is different. :/
somebody needs to find the code in the gauge cluster, and figure out how to reflash it to be accurate. The cluster receives the correct data, but just registers 210 in the entire "normal" operating range, 186-226 (approx??)
Ryan
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the gauge uses a digital input, so you can't just hardwire it, you "might" be able to remove just the water from a 98 cluster, and swap it into your newer cluster, and hardwire that. but im not sure if even that will work.
My temp gauge works, so i have not bothered doing that kind of extensive testing yet.
Ryan
My temp gauge works, so i have not bothered doing that kind of extensive testing yet.
Ryan
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Verdad Gallardo thakns for the info ... man theres conflicting views on this in the external engine forum i got a gus saying almost the oppsite he says ya can just pit a diode on the gague and boom it will work better... hes gonna get back to me he said he was gonna try it out...............any one else tackel this?
unfortunately, i seems that they are not aware of the digital protocol that the cluster gets the data from. I'll keep my eyes on that post, but im 99.9999% sure that that solution will not work, as the gauge does not move in 20 degree incriments.
Ryan.
Ryan.
http://www.ls1.com/forums/showthread...highlight=temp
old post, and you have to be a member of the other site, but it lists the code that is used for the gauge readings. and other info.
old post, and you have to be a member of the other site, but it lists the code that is used for the gauge readings. and other info.
I might know a way to fix it. My factory gauge, from what I can tell, is fairly accurate now. I kind of stumbled across this when I was hooking up my Autometer water temp gauge, and messed up by trying to replace the stock temp sensor with the Autometer sensor. I have a 160* thermostat and my temp gauge usually reads around 180*-190* and only gets up around 200* on the really hot days. Before, with the factory sensor it always read 210*. Here is what I did:
I first tried to put my Autometer water temp sensor in place of the stock sensor, and just let the temp gauge on the cluster read 0. This didn't work though because the PCM wasn't getting a signal and it made the car run in warm-up mode the whole time. I tried to wire both gauges up to the Autometer sensor but that didn't work either. So I ended up just hooking the black wire from the factory sensor up to the Autometer sensor and leaving the yellow wire unhooked because it wouldn't run right when both wires were hooked up to the Autometer sensor. It has been wired up like this on my car for about 2 years and I haven't had any problems with it. I don't think running it like this is a bad thing, but somebody who knows more about it might say differently. Maybe this will help.
I first tried to put my Autometer water temp sensor in place of the stock sensor, and just let the temp gauge on the cluster read 0. This didn't work though because the PCM wasn't getting a signal and it made the car run in warm-up mode the whole time. I tried to wire both gauges up to the Autometer sensor but that didn't work either. So I ended up just hooking the black wire from the factory sensor up to the Autometer sensor and leaving the yellow wire unhooked because it wouldn't run right when both wires were hooked up to the Autometer sensor. It has been wired up like this on my car for about 2 years and I haven't had any problems with it. I don't think running it like this is a bad thing, but somebody who knows more about it might say differently. Maybe this will help.