Speakers went out.
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Teching In
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Speakers went out. Today I was cruising around and decided to play some rap to see how my sub sounded. I got about 100 ft and all my speakers just stopped playing I didn't install the system, it came with the car. It has a sub and like 3 amps would a fuse have gone off or something because I wouldn't think the speakers would have blown when I only had it at 11 out of 39 volume wise. The headunits like an after market dpvideo or something. The headunit's still going strong but I have 0 sound. I also have a speaker under both the passenger and driver seat. If anyone could give me a suggestion as to where to start that would be awesome thanks a ton in advance!
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If you are running 3 external amps, then there is probably a fat 4 AWG or larger wire coming off your positive battery terminal. Look for an aftermarket fuse enclosure about the size of a disposable lighter spliced into that wire between the battery and the firewall, probably near the passenger fender before the ECU. It's usually a clear little enclosure with a big 80A or whatever fuse in it.
Check that first. If you don't find anything, look for a power distribution block on an amp rack, and there may be fuse enclosures near it. If all that checks out okay, then check for fuses on the amps themselves. They usually are regular colored automotive type fuses near the control switches and trim pots.
Check that first. If you don't find anything, look for a power distribution block on an amp rack, and there may be fuse enclosures near it. If all that checks out okay, then check for fuses on the amps themselves. They usually are regular colored automotive type fuses near the control switches and trim pots.
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I checked the power distribution block fuses and there's 2 spots for fuses; there's one working one and the other spot is empty. It's been running off one fuse since I got it. Had trouble finding the fuses on the amps themselves. It seems the amps aren't getting power as the power light is off on the main larger power middle amp. The other 2 don't have the light. The fuse coming off of the battery terminal is fine. I'd guess it was the stupid BCM except the stereo's still going strong; plays dvds and such. Thanks for the help so far, keep it coming.
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I checked the power distribution block fuses and there's 2 spots for fuses; there's one working one and the other spot is empty. It's been running off one fuse since I got it. Had trouble finding the fuses on the amps themselves. It seems the amps aren't getting power as the power light is off on the main larger power middle amp. The other 2 don't have the light. The fuse coming off of the battery terminal is fine. I'd guess it was the stupid BCM except the stereo's still going strong; plays dvds and such. Thanks for the help so far, keep it coming.
If they are using RCA inputs, it's likely they rely on a little "remote" activation wire. If you have a volt meter, make sure the activation wire is charging when the HU is on. Can't remember if it's supposed to be 5 or 12 VDC. The activation signal is likely daisy chained from the first amp on to the next and the last.
Also, which distro block doesn't have a fuse in it? Power or Ground? It's fine if ground doesn't have one, but it should still have a conductor inside or it will be an open circuit.
Can you identify the make/model of the amps and HU?
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From: Jacksonville, FL (originally from Toronto Canada)
How are the amps activated? Are they using RCA level inputs, or using line-level from the powered head-unit output?
If they are using RCA inputs, it's likely they rely on a little "remote" activation wire. If you have a volt meter, make sure the activation wire is charging when the HU is on. Can't remember if it's supposed to be 5 or 12 VDC. The activation signal is likely daisy chained from the first amp on to the next and the last.
If they are using RCA inputs, it's likely they rely on a little "remote" activation wire. If you have a volt meter, make sure the activation wire is charging when the HU is on. Can't remember if it's supposed to be 5 or 12 VDC. The activation signal is likely daisy chained from the first amp on to the next and the last.
Most aftermarket amps use a 12V "remote turn-on" wire (blue with white) from the head unit but the use of signal sensing or a remote turn-on wire is not dependent on line-level versus speaker-level input. Either type of input can be used with either type of amplifier activation. A remote turn-on wire is easier and cheaper to implement in an amp's design so it is much more common than signal sensing.
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Teching In
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The headunit and amps from my knowledge are generic and cheap. But stereos aren't my forte as you can see. I have two xtant 2100b amps and 1 Usa-100 amp thats from Usa-Amps. The headunit is a dpvideo dzp901bh dvd stereo. If it is in safety shut down mode how do I get it out of it or check if it is?
my amp goes to a red light instead of a blue light when it is on (some amps yellow instead of green). This indicates a short,, a blown sub or wiring issues. If you cycle the ignition does it come back on for a minute? Also could be a bad ground on the amp.
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http://ampguts.com/forum/xtant-257/xtant-2100b-3563/
did you find the 30 amp fuse in the 2100b and check it?
The US Amps document also indicates there is an internal 50A fuse:
http://www.usamps.com/technical/pdf/wp100_99.pdf
http://ampguts.com/forum/us-amps-244...sa-100-a-3491/
You can also try disconnecting the speakers and see if the amps turn on one at a time. Did you ever determine how the amps are activated? Did you verify the remote wire voltage is there?
Try isolating elements and run just one amp at at time with no load (speakers disconnected). People really want to help you here, but we need to know which of things we suggested you have actually tried so far.
did you find the 30 amp fuse in the 2100b and check it?
The US Amps document also indicates there is an internal 50A fuse:
http://www.usamps.com/technical/pdf/wp100_99.pdf
http://ampguts.com/forum/us-amps-244...sa-100-a-3491/
You can also try disconnecting the speakers and see if the amps turn on one at a time. Did you ever determine how the amps are activated? Did you verify the remote wire voltage is there?
Try isolating elements and run just one amp at at time with no load (speakers disconnected). People really want to help you here, but we need to know which of things we suggested you have actually tried so far.
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Teching In
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So today we went out and started taking the amps out when we realized the power wasn't even getting to the amps.(Duh) So we got our 12V tester out and tested the fuse on the battery terminal and it turns out one of the ends of the fuses was corroded even though the fuse looked fine. Went out bought a new one and it's working like a charm. Thanks for all the help guys!
