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First step of my audio upgrade. Running power/rca and new speaker wires...

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Old 09-13-2011, 02:12 PM
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Default First step of my audio upgrade. Running power/rca and new speaker wires...

This weekend i will begin the first part of my audio upgrade. Installing an amp, front components and coaxials in the sails.

I'll be running new braided 16ga to every speaker. I'll be routing the 4ga power through the grommet behind the PCM. My question is where does everyone run their power and RCA to the amp in the hatch?

Any suggestions on where to mount the amp? It's an Eclipse XA5000 about 16"x10.5". I really would like a stealth mount from Ian @ Kee Audio but it'll have to wait a few weeks when i get more funds.

Any other overall suggestions?

Last edited by elwood2; 09-16-2011 at 06:12 PM.
Old 09-13-2011, 02:18 PM
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I just ran the power right along the side of the car with all the other wiring that was already there... It's pretty much what I do in any car, works fine.
Old 09-13-2011, 04:11 PM
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Grommet on passenger side right by the pcm.
Old 09-13-2011, 08:17 PM
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Amp power wire runs down the passenger side. I ran my RCAs down the driver side.
Old 09-16-2011, 10:57 AM
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Just got all my wire in a day early! Time to give this a shot! I hope my passenger side sail panel comes off. Last time i tried, i could not get the coat hook off, think the clip is messed up.

Hope the wiring i bought for the "Big 3" upgrade come in tomorrow too!

Last edited by elwood2; 09-16-2011 at 11:08 AM.
Old 09-16-2011, 11:16 AM
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Isn't there a screw in the coat hook? Been a while since I had/worked on my Camaro, but I think there's a screw.
Old 09-16-2011, 12:16 PM
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Originally Posted by dragonrage
Isn't there a screw in the coat hook? Been a while since I had/worked on my Camaro, but I think there's a screw.
No, sir!

It's actually some sort of push pin. Just use a flat head screw driver and start pulling it out in the opening. There's about 3-4 "clicks" from the teeth before it'll pull out.
Old 09-16-2011, 12:52 PM
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oh. I'm thinking of my 3rd-gen, then. I KNOW there was a screw in that one.
Old 09-16-2011, 03:28 PM
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I knew how to take it out because i had removed the drivers side with ease before but the little teeth on the pin on the passengers side are screwed up.

Anyway. I was afraid that my wires wouldn't be quite long enough because i'm using a kit. It has 18ft of 4ga for power which i ran on the passenger side, of course. I think i can make it work but it's gonna be tight! Same thing with the RCA's, they're 5m (16.4ft) and they're going to be tight too.

Does anyone know if the stealth amp mount from KEE can be mounted on either right or left side? The picture on his site shows it mounted on drivers side.

If it does indeed mount to the passenger side i may have no choice but to pull the RCA's and run them along with the power so everything comes out on the drivers side. That would give me enough to work with to mount the stealth mount.

EDIT: Nevermind, i see now. It spans across the entire trunk area so you can mount on either side or mount mutiples.
Guess i should leave enough room in the wires to be able to mount the crossovers to the rack also.
Old 09-16-2011, 03:39 PM
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Well, i just read, in a few different places, that running the RCA's along with the power could create some noise.

I'm going see if i can make it work the way it is now.
Old 09-16-2011, 04:31 PM
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Originally Posted by elwood2
Well, i just read, in a few different places, that running the RCA's along with the power could create some noise.

I'm going see if i can make it work the way it is now.
That's very possible that it could. I was thinking the same thing when I was finalizing running my wiring today. So, as a result, I kept my power wire ran along the passenger side.

With the way I mounted my amp, on the stock mount, the length of the RCA's didn't quite reach down around the drivers side to the rear. Not only that, but with how I wrapped my wires (loomed), it wouldn't quite fit through the stock routing areas.

So, as a result, I may kick myself in the head if something goes wrong, I routed them underneath the carpet under the center console and back through to the hatch. I ended up tucking the wire underneath the carpet, but above the extra padding. So, it's nicely tucked and out of harms way.
Old 09-16-2011, 04:35 PM
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I don't think my amp will fit in the stock area.

I'm gonna have to figure out what i'm gonna with about my battery connections.

Tomorrow my wiring for the big 3 upgrade should be in. I have the stock side-mounted crap. Can't afford to buy another battery. I think i may go pickup some of the side-mount bolts that have another threaded end with a nut to add extra connections.
Old 09-16-2011, 06:09 PM
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Before buying my wire i tried searching everywhere for an approximate amount to purchase to run new wires from trunk where amp is to doors and sails. I found nothing so i bought 30 feet. "that should be enough", WRONG! It's barely enough to do the door runs. I'd recommend 35 feet to make sure you have enough from trunk to doors. For the sails, i'm guessing another 15 feet for those.

So, if you plan on upgrading the speaker wires to the doors and sails, i'd get at least 50 feet of speaker wire.

Another thing, if you are going to upgrade the speaker wires: on the drivers side you'll need to remove the hood release lever, two bolts, and remove the panel behind it. I think it was held on by one big push clip. Behind it is a large area of tar that's sealing the rubber boot and wires. You'll have to bust through it to run your wires so adding sound deadening here would be must.

I had to pop the rubber boot on both sides on the driver side to be able to route the wire. On the passenger side i got it through by just removing the side on the door.

Hopefully this helps someone in the future.
Old 09-16-2011, 07:21 PM
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20 feet is enough to run from the HU to the doors for tweeters.

Now i just gotta find a place to velcro the crossovers inside the door where it won't interfere with anything.
Old 09-16-2011, 07:25 PM
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Herp and derp! The crossover has one wire in and two wires out, one for woofer and one for tweeter. DERP!
Old 09-16-2011, 07:51 PM
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Originally Posted by elwood2
I don't think my amp will fit in the stock area.

I'm gonna have to figure out what i'm gonna with about my battery connections.

Tomorrow my wiring for the big 3 upgrade should be in. I have the stock side-mounted crap. Can't afford to buy another battery. I think i may go pickup some of the side-mount bolts that have another threaded end with a nut to add extra connections.
Those replacement bolts are great. I ended up grabbing one from Autozone, but Pepboys and Advanced have them as well. Just make sure you grab the short threaded ones.

Originally Posted by elwood2
Before buying my wire i tried searching everywhere for an approximate amount to purchase to run new wires from trunk where amp is to doors and sails. I found nothing so i bought 30 feet. "that should be enough", WRONG! It's barely enough to do the door runs. I'd recommend 35 feet to make sure you have enough from trunk to doors. For the sails, i'm guessing another 15 feet for those.

So, if you plan on upgrading the speaker wires to the doors and sails, i'd get at least 50 feet of speaker wire.

Another thing, if you are going to upgrade the speaker wires: on the drivers side you'll need to remove the hood release lever, two bolts, and remove the panel behind it. I think it was held on by one big push clip. Behind it is a large area of tar that's sealing the rubber boot and wires. You'll have to bust through it to run your wires so adding sound deadening here would be must.

I had to pop the rubber boot on both sides on the driver side to be able to route the wire. On the passenger side i got it through by just removing the side on the door.

Hopefully this helps someone in the future.
I ended up using ~100 feet of wire for all the speakers. A bit less after I changed the routing of my wiring. As far as the doors, a hanger looped with the wire and fished it through. I did that on both passenger and driver side without having to remove the plastic. The driver side took some finagling, but I eventually got it through.

Now i just gotta find a place to velcro the crossovers inside the door where it won't interfere with anything.[/QUOTE]

How big are your crossovers? Definitely interested in seeing where exactly you mount them to give me an idea once I figure how to mount them into the 6LE mounts as well as some location at the top of the glass for the upstage.
Old 09-16-2011, 07:58 PM
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Originally Posted by elwood2
20 feet is enough to run from the HU to the doors for tweeters.

Now i just gotta find a place to velcro the crossovers inside the door where it won't interfere with anything.
It may be overkill, but I would suggest mounting the crossovers in the kickpanels and then run your speaker wires through the rubber boot in the door. That way you never have to worry about the crossover and such things like it getting jarred around when you slam the door and also falling off and rattling around inside the door.
Old 09-16-2011, 09:03 PM
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Originally Posted by KevinWS6
It may be overkill, but I would suggest mounting the crossovers in the kickpanels and then run your speaker wires through the rubber boot in the door. That way you never have to worry about the crossover and such things like it getting jarred around when you slam the door and also falling off and rattling around inside the door.
Yeah, i've decided against mounting them inside or anywhere on the door.

Rauch, the crossovers are smaller than a pack of cigarettes:


I thought about mounting them on the kickpanels but i think i'd end up hitting it with my shoe.

Thinking about under the seats but i'd have to cut the carpet for a clean install.

I can't afford to buy and wait for another 30ft of good wire to mount them in the trunk by the amp. I need to get this done this weekend.

On a side note, i just had a heart attack. I was shutting it down for the night and i needed to roll my windows up. I put the battery back in and hooked it up, put the t-tops back on, rolled the windows up, and stuck all the panels i still have off inside the car.

I walk to the front of my car and go to close the hood. I didn't want to close it all the way, just to the first "notch", so i lower the hood until the hook touches the latch then i pull the latch to go to the next notch. When the hood drops there's a loud "pshhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhh!", i throw the hood up and there's cloud of something. First thought; i still had the PCM out and the harnesses resting on the hood strut. I thought it pinched a bunch of wires and it shorted out, burning a bunch of wires. (doubtful that wires would burn in this situation, the fuse would hopefully blow first)

Then i noticed there was oil on everything, the passenger side hood strut had a blowout! I was so relieved!
Old 09-16-2011, 10:49 PM
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Originally Posted by elwood2
Yeah, i've decided against mounting them inside or anywhere on the door.

Rauch, the crossovers are smaller than a pack of cigarettes:


I thought about mounting them on the kickpanels but i think i'd end up hitting it with my shoe.

Thinking about under the seats but i'd have to cut the carpet for a clean install.
With that size crossover you will definitely be able to fit them inside of the kick panels. Mine are larger than that and fit in there just fine. Good luck with the rest of the install! Good news about it just being the hood strut
Old 09-16-2011, 11:23 PM
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Originally Posted by KevinWS6
With that size crossover you will definitely be able to fit them inside of the kick panels. Mine are larger than that and fit in there just fine. Good luck with the rest of the install! Good news about it just being the hood strut
Do you have any pictures of yours mounted in the kick panels?


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