middle speakers wire to front or rear
Thread Starter
Registered User
Joined: Nov 2011
Posts: 2
Likes: 0
middle speakers wire to front or rear Im working on building a stereo system for my trans am. All new speakers rewired with amps and what not. Im not sure whether to wire the middle speakers (ones in the back seats) to front or rear output. Ill deffinatly have the speakers in the "truck" wired to rear but not sure what to do with the middle speakers. Would it be better to have more front or rear sound in the trans am. Im thinking front because the rear ones will be "extra" loud due to the sound bouncing of the rear window and pushed it into the the actual car. What do you think?
thanks
thanks
i think most people going your route dont use those rears and wire the b-pillar speakers to the rear output. idk as i've never been baller enough for an entirely new system lol.
TECH Addict
Joined: Sep 2006
Posts: 2,591
Likes: 1
From: Massachusetts
In my opinion, leave the sail panel and hatch speakers out completely and just use the rear as output to a 10" or 12" subwoofer in the back. The car isn't big enough to have any use from rear speakers. In my G8, I leave the rears on just a liiitle bit since passengers can actually fit back there...
Once I get a working amp from the company I bought mine from, my sails will be hooked up to the rear outputs on the amp and the hatch speakers will be run to the head unit. At least that is what the guy advised me to do when I called in, and for the 5 secs the amp worked before blowing a capacitor or something it sounded pretty good. Now there is just an audible clicking sound coming from the front channel of the amp at every volume level, turning the gain up makes the speakers have a seizure, and the amp won't come out of protect mode. lol
TECH Enthusiast
Joined: Nov 2010
Posts: 514
Likes: 0
Personally, I like having the effect of midbass in the cabin. A 10-12" sub will never fill the gap in the 100-300 Hz range, unless your door components get enough power drive those low freqs effectively. I think its a nice low end boost that you will notice.
Last edited by Capricio; Nov 15, 2011 at 11:14 AM.
TECH Addict
Joined: Sep 2006
Posts: 2,591
Likes: 1
From: Massachusetts
Make sure to seal off the doors. It helps immensely.
TECH Enthusiast
Joined: Nov 2010
Posts: 514
Likes: 0
I've played around with the LPF on my midbass. 100-300 blends seamlessly with the hatch fill speakers. Beyond that, 400+ really does pull the soundstage backward. Maybe my perception differs from yours.
At wavelengths greater than 10 times the speaker diameter, cone movement is so great it becomes non-linear and inefficient. Some manufacturers of full range components or two-ways make the suspension tight to limit cone movement, compromising bass performance for a higher power rating. A dedicated midbass cone will not make this kind of compromise.
For a tone of f = 100 Hz the wavelength is lambda = c / f = 343 / 100 = 3.43 meters, about 20x or twice the approximate limit of a 6.5". An 8" would probably provide a better midbass transition but GM didn't give us nice factory mounts for one of those.
Drawing your main door components down that low only compromises their performance at higher frequencies, the power available is only so much. Adding another amp and set of speakers to assist in the more power hungry bass range will only help achieve a fuller midbass sound. Ask anyone who has configured midbass drivers correctly if they miss them when they're gone.
At wavelengths greater than 10 times the speaker diameter, cone movement is so great it becomes non-linear and inefficient. Some manufacturers of full range components or two-ways make the suspension tight to limit cone movement, compromising bass performance for a higher power rating. A dedicated midbass cone will not make this kind of compromise.
For a tone of f = 100 Hz the wavelength is lambda = c / f = 343 / 100 = 3.43 meters, about 20x or twice the approximate limit of a 6.5". An 8" would probably provide a better midbass transition but GM didn't give us nice factory mounts for one of those.
Drawing your main door components down that low only compromises their performance at higher frequencies, the power available is only so much. Adding another amp and set of speakers to assist in the more power hungry bass range will only help achieve a fuller midbass sound. Ask anyone who has configured midbass drivers correctly if they miss them when they're gone.
Last edited by Capricio; Nov 16, 2011 at 04:56 PM.
Trending Topics
TECH Addict
Joined: Sep 2006
Posts: 2,591
Likes: 1
From: Massachusetts
I'm not putting anything >100Hz behind me unless absolutely necessary, and then as little as possible. My 6.5"s do just fine down to 80Hz. I'm not sure where you've gotten the idea of the wavelength stuff, because then even most subwoofers wouldn't be good enough for low bass.
LS1 Tech Stories
The Best V8 Stories One Small Block at Time
Gas Monkey Built a 6-Wheel Ferrari Testarossa With a Corvette LT4 Engine
Verdad Gallardo
7 Most Reliable High-Performance Engines GM Has Ever Built
Verdad Gallardo
Amazing '71 Camaro Restomod Is Modern Muscle Car Under the Skin
Verdad Gallardo
6 Common C5 Corvette Failures and What's Involved In Repairing Them
Pouria Savadkouei
Retro Modern Bandit Pontiac Trans AM Comes With Burt Reynolds' Autograph
Verdad Gallardo
Top 10 Greatest Cadillac V Series Performance Models Ever, Ranked
Pouria Savadkouei
Top 10 Most Powerful Chevy Trucks Ever Made!
Hennessey's New Supercharged Silverado ZR2 Has 700 HP
Verdad Gallardo
Coachbuilt N2A Anteros Is an LS2-Powered C6 Corvette In Italian Clothes
Verdad Gallardo TECH Enthusiast
Joined: Nov 2010
Posts: 514
Likes: 0
It's all about efficiency and the power hungry nature of low freqs. Also just contrasting how a 6.5" midbass will have a higher excursion for bass than a component woofer. The 10x rule of thumb is directed more towards full range speakers, not purpose built sub-bass cones. Take it leave it FWIW.
Joined: Nov 2003
Posts: 11,330
Likes: 346
From: Jacksonville, FL (originally from Toronto Canada)
The calculations are correct but the assumption that "At wavelengths greater than 10 times the speaker diameter, cone movement is so great it becomes non-linear and inefficient" is somewhat suspect. For example, it fails to take into account the distance of the listener from the speaker. That's the reason headphones can produce decent bass - they're very close to your ears. In a car, the subs are closer to the listener than the wavelength of the sound they produce.
TECH Enthusiast
Joined: Nov 2010
Posts: 514
Likes: 0
Well we're talking apples and oranges, to an extent... energy efficiency and spectrum linearity producing low freqs for different size drivers vs listener perception regardless of efficiency/linearity. Not saying small drivers can't make bass, just they aren't as good or effective at it, and that not all 6.5" drivers are equal or even built for the same purpose. ...that's all. As you get closer to the driver, efficiency becomes less of an issue.
Dragonrage and I disagree on whether it's worthwhile to keep midbass drivers in the back. He says a good component pair is good enough and midbass drivers aren't worth the expense. I say it's okay but can be improved upon and the expense is worth it. As always, try listening to both applications, if at all possible, and make your own decision.
If anyone wants to read a can of worms, get on the AVS forums and read debates on subsonic freqs and when bass becomes perceived as directional.
Dragonrage and I disagree on whether it's worthwhile to keep midbass drivers in the back. He says a good component pair is good enough and midbass drivers aren't worth the expense. I say it's okay but can be improved upon and the expense is worth it. As always, try listening to both applications, if at all possible, and make your own decision.
If anyone wants to read a can of worms, get on the AVS forums and read debates on subsonic freqs and when bass becomes perceived as directional.
Thread Starter
Registered User
Joined: Nov 2011
Posts: 2
Likes: 0
Im gonna be runnin 2 jbl 12s in a sealed box. So im gonna run speakers everywhere in the car they already are just to get more mid/treb. Ive been lookin around and i think what im gonna do is wire the front and middle speakers to the amp then just run the hatch speakers off the head unit. until i get kick panels then ill hook up another 4 chanel. then be runnin 4 pair of compenent speakers, so that would be 16 speakers plus 2 subs. should scream pretty good
And I haven't used the way-back speakers in a LONG time. No need for em. Sails are rear and fronts are front. Subs in the back... that's it.
yeah, i've got great (i think) mechanical skills, but i have no faith in my craftsmanship when it comes to interior stuff. plus the whole keep rca's and power wires and speaker leads separate. then there's the stainless steel hose running to the engine compartment. idk what thats for though
...
... 