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Old Nov 20, 2011 | 11:15 PM
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Originally Posted by BS
I have Autolumination Switchbacks and haven't had any problems so far. I also have "Keep it Clean" No Load Flashers. I only heard good things about JW Motoring Switchbacks. They claim to have had no returns due to failure of the LED and seem to have a good warranty(1year).
Look in the C5 section under lighting.

They are $45 a pair and a pair of load resistors is $7. And shipping is free.
looked for over 30 minutes and could not find them in the C5 forums. their sold as new by a member/vendor? or you were saying find a used pair in the classifieds?

what i did find on there were a few treads with guys complaining about defaults in the bulbs. now if i go buy the 'Keep it clean' flashers, then will they protect my bulbs from power surges and quick changes in voltage causing the bulb to blow? or do i still need a load equalizer/resistor?

Last edited by Numba20; Nov 20, 2011 at 11:27 PM.
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Old Nov 21, 2011 | 08:26 AM
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Originally Posted by Numba20
that'll save me some bucks. goo man. jumping on that! to WhiteBird00, if i did the DRL disable for day time i asked about in that ancient thread, it would apply to same extent on the switch backs too correct? w/o lights on it would flash just white? or no?
The switchback bulbs are designed to show white parking lights (dim "filament") with amber turn signals (bright "filament").

After disabling DRLs, with headlights off, the front lamps will flash amber when using turn signals otherwise they will be off. With headlights on, the front lamps will be on white and will switch to amber flashing when using the turn signals.
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Old Nov 21, 2011 | 08:40 AM
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Originally Posted by Numba20
what i did find on there were a few treads with guys complaining about defaults in the bulbs. now if i go buy the 'Keep it clean' flashers, then will they protect my bulbs from power surges and quick changes in voltage causing the bulb to blow? or do i still need a load equalizer/resistor?
You need either an electronic flasher or a load equalizer - not both. LED bulbs provide almost no resistance in the circuit so it appears that there are burned out bulbs because not enough current is flowing through the flasher. The load equalizer is just a set of resistors that add the equivalent load of standard bulbs to the circuit allowing the turn signals to flash normally. An electronic flasher achieves the same thing by basically ignoring the amount of current flowing and providing a constant flash speed. If you replace all bulbs in the circuit with LEDs you will probably need a special LED or zero-load electronic flasher but if you only replace the front bulbs then any electronic or electro-mechanical flasher should work.

Whoever is saying that rapid voltage changes damage LED bulbs doesn't know what they're talking about. I have my LED bulbs connected to a strobe flasher that allows me to run them as strobe lights when I'm working charity events. That's about as fast as the voltage can change and they are four years old without problems. A power surge could possibly be an issue but if your car is experiencing power surges going above about 16 volts (the LED's limit) then you have bigger problems than bulbs.
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Old Nov 21, 2011 | 09:08 AM
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Ordered the switchbacks and relay today.
Should be here by Wednesday.
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Old Nov 21, 2011 | 09:13 AM
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Originally Posted by WhiteBird00
The switchback bulbs are designed to show white parking lights (dim "filament") with amber turn signals (bright "filament").

After disabling DRLs, with headlights off, the front lamps will flash amber when using turn signals otherwise they will be off. With headlights on, the front lamps will be on white and will switch to amber flashing when using the turn signals.
Would there be a way to get the turn signal to flash white when headlights are off?

Originally Posted by WhiteBird00
You need either an electronic flasher or a load equalizer - not both. LED bulbs provide almost no resistance in the circuit so it appears that there are burned out bulbs because not enough current is flowing through the flasher. The load equalizer is just a set of resistors that add the equivalent load of standard bulbs to the circuit allowing the turn signals to flash normally. An electronic flasher achieves the same thing by basically ignoring the amount of current flowing and providing a constant flash speed. If you replace all bulbs in the circuit with LEDs you will probably need a special LED or zero-load electronic flasher but if you only replace the front bulbs then any electronic or electro-mechanical flasher should work.

Whoever is saying that rapid voltage changes damage LED bulbs doesn't know what they're talking about. I have my LED bulbs connected to a strobe flasher that allows me to run them as strobe lights when I'm working charity events. That's about as fast as the voltage can change and they are four years old without problems. A power surge could possibly be an issue but if your car is experiencing power surges going above about 16 volts (the LED's limit) then you have bigger problems than bulbs.
Getting Zero-Load. Keep it clean. So ill be ready for my tail sequentials when i want to install.

Thanks for all the info WhiteBird00 i read 4 or 5 lengthy threads u dominated. Lol So u helped me more than you know. Btw... Dont hate me but i bought the red/white flashbacks. Im going to be painting the car silver with black and red retro style birds on hood, sail panels, and tail light panel. Along with a rear window decal. So red/black trim will be all over the place. I think the flashback i got will b a perfect match.
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Old Nov 21, 2011 | 09:16 AM
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Originally Posted by Numba20
Would there be a way to get the turn signal to flash white when headlights are off?
They will flash the same color whether the headlights are on or off. To make them flash white, you'll have to swap the blue and brown wires at the front sockets.
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Old Nov 21, 2011 | 09:23 AM
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And then the DRL's would b red when lights are on. Gotcha. Can u leave a hyperlink to the C5 with the Keep it clean zero load flashers for sale. Cant find them
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Old Nov 21, 2011 | 01:24 PM
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Originally Posted by Nowhereman
Ordered the switchbacks and relay today.
Should be here by Wednesday.
post some pics in the thread if you want. i'd like to see em once installed.
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Old Nov 21, 2011 | 01:32 PM
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okay, hopefully my last question.. lol but the HID kits i ordered are 35w Xentec's with H7 bulbs. i bought two sets. one for high one for low. i know its better to do the high/low kit and all, but figured id be gaining alot of light anyway. and i also know these bulbs do not like to be flashed, and i assumed i could run a 35w on my high beam with no problems? i wont do a whole lot of switching switching back and forth anyway. now, i will be retrofitting them in the stock housings, using a diamond bit tip to cut my hole, and sealing everything back with silicone. but do i need to drill a breather hole at the bottom? just incase the housings let in moisture? or for heat purposes? or would i be better off completely sealing them off?
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Old Nov 21, 2011 | 04:51 PM
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Originally Posted by Numba20
post some pics in the thread if you want. i'd like to see em once installed.
OK, i will.
I just got confirmation that the components shipped.
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Old Nov 27, 2011 | 09:39 PM
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Apparently I ordered the wrong turn signal flasher when I thought it was the correct one.
I'm looking for a digital flasher so I can run my LED setup for my DRLs.
The one I ordered has 4 prongs and when I pulled the original, it only has two.
It's for a 2000 WS6.
Does anyone know which pn is needed for this.
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Old Nov 27, 2011 | 11:15 PM
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Originally Posted by Nowhereman
Apparently I ordered the wrong turn signal flasher when I thought it was the correct one.
I'm looking for a digital flasher so I can run my LED setup for my DRLs.
The one I ordered has 4 prongs and when I pulled the original, it only has two.
It's for a 2000 WS6.
Does anyone know which pn is needed for this.
here's the ones im using. highly recommend. they also have adjustable ones so you can control the speed of the flash, for sequential tail lights and such, but they are $50 where these are $10.

keepitcleanwiring(DOT)com/catalog/Relays%20and%20Flashers/Flashers/FF552NLF
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Old Dec 3, 2011 | 11:03 PM
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Can someone who has switched their bright and dim wires with switchbacks pm me a link to video of operation. I have found plenty of videos with switchbacks installed plug and play, but would really like them to be Amber with headlights on and white with them off.

I would rather see them flash amber than white, but you can get them that flash;

Amber - Off - Amber - Off - Amber - Off

- or -

Amber - White - Amber - White - Amber - White

I would rather have amber - off, but to get the DRL colors I want switching the bright/dim will create white flashing turn, which I don't want. But if I get the a-w-a-w flashing I will still get amber in the turn, right?
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Old Dec 4, 2011 | 12:14 AM
  #34  
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i never understood these type of problems..........got my DRLs from ssuperbrite......got new sockets.....new housings.......and 2 EL12 flashers..............works perfect
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Old Dec 4, 2011 | 09:03 AM
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Originally Posted by Halon330
Can someone who has switched their bright and dim wires with switchbacks pm me a link to video of operation. I have found plenty of videos with switchbacks installed plug and play, but would really like them to be Amber with headlights on and white with them off.

I would rather see them flash amber than white, but you can get them that flash;

Amber - Off - Amber - Off - Amber - Off

- or -

Amber - White - Amber - White - Amber - White

I would rather have amber - off, but to get the DRL colors I want switching the bright/dim will create white flashing turn, which I don't want. But if I get the a-w-a-w flashing I will still get amber in the turn, right?
What you're looking for can't be done with just switchback bulbs even by reversing the wires. Basically, switchback bulbs have one color LED connected to one input and the other color connected to the other input - normally white is the "dim" filament and amber is the "bright" filament.

Unfortunately, f-bodies use the bright filament power for both DRLs and turn signals. The dim filament is used only for parking lights when the headlights are on. So you can choose white or amber for either one by swapping the wires but you can't have DRLs a different color from turn signals without significant rewiring.

First you would have to disable DRLs at the DRL module or bypass the DRL module for turn signals only. Then you would have to rewire the parking lights to work like DRLs.
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Old Dec 4, 2011 | 10:13 AM
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If this thing will let me post pics, which it hasn't so far, I'll do it today because I installed the digital signal relay and switchbacks last night.
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Old Dec 4, 2011 | 10:33 AM
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Originally Posted by Halon330
Can someone who has switched their bright and dim wires with switchbacks pm me a link to video of operation. I have found plenty of videos with switchbacks installed plug and play, but would really like them to be Amber with headlights on and white with them off.

I would rather see them flash amber than white, but you can get them that flash;

Amber - Off - Amber - Off - Amber - Off

- or -

Amber - White - Amber - White - Amber - White

I would rather have amber - off, but to get the DRL colors I want switching the bright/dim will create white flashing turn, which I don't want. But if I get the a-w-a-w flashing I will still get amber in the turn, right?
I'll try and get a video to post soon but when I installed my Switchbacks from Autolumination the Amber lights were on bright circuit when the DRLs were suppose to be on and flashed amber-off. The amber and White lights were on when the parking lights were suppose to be on but appear to be Amber and it flashed amber-off and the white stayed on(appeared A-W). When the headlights were on the white light were on and flashed white-amber. I switched the blue and brown wires in the socket. Now the white lights are on the bright circuit for the DRLs and flash white-off . The parking lights appear white but both Amber and White are on and the
white flashes off and on and the Amber stays on(appears W-A). When the headlights are on the LEDs are amber and flash amber-white.

Last edited by BS; Dec 4, 2011 at 10:42 AM.
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Old Dec 5, 2011 | 01:13 AM
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Put everything in this morning and they worked like a charm.
Even the wifey was impressed and liked it.
Now here's some irony..
When I checked em and saw everything was good, I turned on my fogs to see how they would look and one of them is out....LOL
Soooo I picked up a pair of Silverstar bulbs to replace em.
I will change those on Thursday as it is not a quick swap out.
Looks like I need to remove the air dam to get access.
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Old Dec 6, 2011 | 12:49 PM
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Originally Posted by Nowhereman
Put everything in this morning and they worked like a charm.
Even the wifey was impressed and liked it.
Now here's some irony..
When I checked em and saw everything was good, I turned on my fogs to see how they would look and one of them is out....LOL
Soooo I picked up a pair of Silverstar bulbs to replace em.
I will change those on Thursday as it is not a quick swap out.
Looks like I need to remove the air dam to get access.
best way to change them, get under the car, pull out the three pop in tabs on the under side of the front bumper. (just in front of radiator) pull the plastic lip down and you have them in plain view. about 5 min max.
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Old Dec 6, 2011 | 01:16 PM
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Worked like a charm, Numba20.. thanks much.....
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