Hard-Wiring Satellite Radio and V1
#43
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Here's the XM Onyx. I still need to work on wiring. I might hardwire the power supply. Signal is auxillary-in with a GM9-AUX adapter, and the antenna is under the dashboard (discovered by Whitebird):
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No sir, I ended up buying the bracket and swivel mount from tss-radio (in the links on previous page). I'm not the handiest guy on the block so I decided to spend a few extra bucks and make my life easier.
I want to say that I appreciate all the help from you and Whitebird. When I first posted here I wasn't getting any sound out my speakers, and now not only do I have sound but I have satellite radio too. I never could have accomplished this without your help. I'm very grateful and appreciative. You guys are the best! Thanks so much! And Merry Xmas!
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Quick question, if I wire my satellite radio to IGN in the fusebox, will the satellite radio turn on in the exact same manner as the HU? I mean when the car is turned off and I switch the ignition to the accessory position? Or do I need to hardwire to ACC in the fusebox for the satellite radio to receive power exactly like the HU? Thanks.
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Awesome Whitebird! Thankyou!
BTW, do I need to install a fuse inline or can I just hook up my cigarette socket adapter to ACCY and a ground, plug in the satellite radio, and just call it a day? Thanks again.
BTW, do I need to install a fuse inline or can I just hook up my cigarette socket adapter to ACCY and a ground, plug in the satellite radio, and just call it a day? Thanks again.
Last edited by Predator; 12-31-2011 at 12:53 PM.
#49
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That depends on the size and length of the wire you use. Fuses don't protect accessories, they protect the wiring from being overloaded, heating up and causing a fire. Larger wire can safely carry more current. You want to use a fuse that will blow before the current flow exceeds the capacity of the wire it's connected to.
The three ports (IGN, ACCY, BATT) in the fuse panel are each 15 amp circuits. If you are using at least 14 gauge wire for a relatively short run (say 8 feet or less) then that is probably enough protection. If you are using smaller (or longer) wire then an inline fuse would probably be a good idea. The satellite radio probably uses less than 5 amps so that might be a good size to start with.
The three ports (IGN, ACCY, BATT) in the fuse panel are each 15 amp circuits. If you are using at least 14 gauge wire for a relatively short run (say 8 feet or less) then that is probably enough protection. If you are using smaller (or longer) wire then an inline fuse would probably be a good idea. The satellite radio probably uses less than 5 amps so that might be a good size to start with.
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Thanks Whitebird, The wires are pretty thick and 7" long. I think it says 18G on the wire. It's this exact adapter:
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0006TIRZA/ref=oh_o00_s00_i00_details
Lastly, one of the two adapter wires has writing on it and it's smooth (perfectly round). The other wire has no writing and has a ridge running the length. Is the smooth wire with the writing on it the negative lead? Thanks.
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0006TIRZA/ref=oh_o00_s00_i00_details
Lastly, one of the two adapter wires has writing on it and it's smooth (perfectly round). The other wire has no writing and has a ridge running the length. Is the smooth wire with the writing on it the negative lead? Thanks.
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Whitebird, I wonder if 7" of wire on that adapter is enough to tie into a ground somewhere near the fusebox? Any tips on how I might accomplish hooking this up with what I have to work with? Thanks.
#52
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According to the listing on Amazon, the wires are "thin" (meaning the wire itself not how much insulation is on it). Most of the comments mentioned that there were no instructions indicating which was positive and which was negative. One said that after connecting it the wrong way the first time, he found that the wire with the writing was negative. Still, it's best to test with a multimeter... the wire connected to the outer barrel is negative and the one connected to the center pin is positive.
Your best bet for ground is the threaded stud under the left side of the dash behind the plastic kick panel. You'll have to splice in some additional wire to get it to reach.
Your best bet for ground is the threaded stud under the left side of the dash behind the plastic kick panel. You'll have to splice in some additional wire to get it to reach.
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Screw it, I couldn't hook up to the fuse box. I must be in over my head haha. Any other options or do I just have to live with the accessory plug? This electronic stuff always kicks my ***. At least I have satellite radio, plus sound coming out of my speakers again.
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--I couldn't see how to connect a wire to the fuse box. It just looks like an odd-shaped slot sort of like a phone jack. Plus the car's door was in the way of my being able to look into the slot to try to figure-out some way of hooking up a wire to it.
--After taking off the kick panel there didn't seem to be a way to access the back of the fuse box.
--It seems that unless I started taking a bunch of stuff apart inside the kick panel area I didn't see how I could get my hand up to near the back of the fuse box or even feed the wire down over to the radio.
--I didn't have an inline fuse so I was worried about starting a fire inside my car even if I did manage to hook things up.
--My hands are too big and clumsy to work with delicate stuff like electronics.
That should cover it .
--After taking off the kick panel there didn't seem to be a way to access the back of the fuse box.
--It seems that unless I started taking a bunch of stuff apart inside the kick panel area I didn't see how I could get my hand up to near the back of the fuse box or even feed the wire down over to the radio.
--I didn't have an inline fuse so I was worried about starting a fire inside my car even if I did manage to hook things up.
--My hands are too big and clumsy to work with delicate stuff like electronics.
That should cover it .
#57
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The slot in the fuse panel takes a standard male "quick disconnect" connector. It is a flat connector about 1/4 inch wide. You can get crimp-on connectors like that at any auto parts store. Pick up an inline fuse while you're there.
There is a single bolt holding the fuse panel to the side of the dash. Crimp the connector to the inline fuse wire, plug it into the ACCY port, unbolt the fuse panel to give clearance to run the wire around the edge into the dash, use a sophisticated tool like a bent coat hanger to fish the wire down to the bottom of the dash, bolt the fuse panel back to the dash and continue with your wiring connections from under the dash.
There is a single bolt holding the fuse panel to the side of the dash. Crimp the connector to the inline fuse wire, plug it into the ACCY port, unbolt the fuse panel to give clearance to run the wire around the edge into the dash, use a sophisticated tool like a bent coat hanger to fish the wire down to the bottom of the dash, bolt the fuse panel back to the dash and continue with your wiring connections from under the dash.
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The slot in the fuse panel takes a standard male "quick disconnect" connector. It is a flat connector about 1/4 inch wide. You can get crimp-on connectors like that at any auto parts store. Pick up an inline fuse while you're there.
There is a single bolt holding the fuse panel to the side of the dash. Crimp the connector to the inline fuse wire, plug it into the ACCY port, unbolt the fuse panel to give clearance to run the wire around the edge into the dash, use a sophisticated tool like a bent coat hanger to fish the wire down to the bottom of the dash, bolt the fuse panel back to the dash and continue with your wiring connections from under the dash.
There is a single bolt holding the fuse panel to the side of the dash. Crimp the connector to the inline fuse wire, plug it into the ACCY port, unbolt the fuse panel to give clearance to run the wire around the edge into the dash, use a sophisticated tool like a bent coat hanger to fish the wire down to the bottom of the dash, bolt the fuse panel back to the dash and continue with your wiring connections from under the dash.
I'll give it a try again. Thanks again.
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Whitebird, here's something I've been trying to understand. For example, the ACCY circuit is 12 volts from the battery (obvious enough). As soon as I complete the circuit aren't there 15 amps of current flowing? So if I hook up an inline fuse at the beginning of the circuit won't the fuse immediately blow? Or does the load, the satellite radio, determine how much amperage flows? The radio is a max 5 amp load so does mean that only up to 5 amps will flow on that ACCY circuit? Does the load on the circuit determine the amount of amperage that can flow? This seems to be the only conclusion that makes any sense to me because if it's true then only up to 5 amps will flow at the beginning of the circuit and is able to pass through the fuse without blowing it.
I always thought that a 15 amp circuit flowed 15 amps and the load (devices) or loads would subtract the amount of amperage they needed, but again, if that was true then a 5 amp fuse at the beginning of the circuit would always blow. Can you put me out of my misery of ignorance . Thanks.
I always thought that a 15 amp circuit flowed 15 amps and the load (devices) or loads would subtract the amount of amperage they needed, but again, if that was true then a 5 amp fuse at the beginning of the circuit would always blow. Can you put me out of my misery of ignorance . Thanks.