B0dyDr0pp3d

iTrader: (4)

Ok so I'm very close to being able to install my new system I've been working on in my 00 SS T-top. My buddy who's all into competition sound competitions and what not basically designed the set up for me. Right now I have:

1) Pioneer Deck

2) 0 Gauge Install Kit

3) 50 feet of 12 gauge speaker wire

4) Dask kit and wiring harness

5) Hifonics Zeus Zxi60.4+1k 5 Channel Amp

6) 12" Alpine Type-R

7) 6" Mid Bass

8) Tweeters

9) Crossovers

My buddy also told me that I most likely won't need back fill speakers with this setup so I'm just running the front components so about 120 watts rms each will be going to the components, and the Type R will be getting around 1000. He told me we need to build a ported box with at least 3 cubic feet and tuned to 32 Hz. I keep finding lots of dual 12" sealed boxes with barely any air space online. Does anyone make a box that fits these requirements online? How much space is there in the T-top storage area of my Camaro if I used just MDF and didn't mess with fiberglassing. Is there a box that works as a rear seat delete because I wouldn't be against that idea either. Hopefully I'll have pics of the install soon. Thanks in advance.

4U2BNVS

iTrader: (2)

Ur gonna blow that type r with 1000 rms watts

cfallsguy

iTrader: (1)

This.
And if you're looking at a ported box you'll probably have to have one custom made the way you want. I had one made for my camaro about a year ago and it wasn't cheap, but it was 1.5 cu. ft. per sub and ported to 34hz, exactly how I wanted it. If I were you I'd also get a good amp for just the 6.5's and a class D/mono amp for just the sub(s). What is your price range for everything, maybe I can give you some suggestions for a setup. And why are you going with 6" mid bass?

pentavolvo

by a matched component set

mrrman

I like these amps that have the screw in terminals....maybe I should look into this type over the ring terminal connectors...

Ellsworth

I doubt the sub wires down to 1ohm since you only said 1 type R, thus you wont be seeing 1,000 rms. so your good there.

just build a 2^ft ported rectangle slot port box and stick it inside the well. its really not worth the effort building a box like the custom ones with 2 10"s or 2 12"s like your seeing.

B0dyDr0pp3d

iTrader: (4)

First off all the equipment listed above is already purchased so I'm not going to change it up. I've heard this mix/ and match component system running on 100 watts in my friends 150+ db system in a newer Civic and its insanely crisp and loud even with a 1000 watt sub stage.

The Alpine Type-R is a dual 2 ohm model which can wire down to 1 ohm or 4 ohms. If I was running 2 12's then they would need to be dual 4 ohm. I am a little concerned with pushing that high of wattage into a single 12" Type R but I've heard a lot of good ported systems running a single 12 or 15 and it sounds amazing and deep and low. I've had quite a few other systems in the past that have been 2 12's, 2 10's, and 2 15's... In most cases I've under powered them so I'm kinda going with a different approach on putting a lot of power in a single 12.

That Hifonics Zeus 5 channel amp is essentially 2 amps, one 4 channel (which I will be bridging to 2 channels for my home made component set up) and then a class D mono 1000 watt rms sub stage amp. A lot of good reviews online about that amp for a decent price.

It looks like I'll be building the box myself I guess, with some help from more knowledgeable audio guys. Once I get it all in I will have pics/ SPL results, and possibly a brand new blown 12" Type R :/

MikeFbody

iTrader: (2)

If you are going for loudness, do not do a rear seat delete box. For maximum SPL, you want to be in the rear hatch well. I lost SPL when going from a single 12" JBL WGti in a sealed box in the hatch, vs a pair of WGti's in a ported box with twice the power. Granted, it sounded wonderful, but if you want loudness, stay in the hatch well.

cfallsguy

iTrader: (1)

Anymore info on his car? 150+ db in a trunk isn't an easy task by any means..


I've also had rear seat delete and the box in the hatch and the hatch was much louder. The rear hatch window helps a lot in these cars.

B0dyDr0pp3d

iTrader: (4)

I don't know all the specifics of his system but I'll find out pretty soon, he's always on all the car audio forums... SMD and all that shiz. That's interesting about the rear seat delete boxes. All I know is that the acoustics in the camaro's are pretty nice and can have some pretty insane systems.

f-body.cbct

iTrader: (5)

Ya, I can only think of a few trunk cars doin 150. Would like to see pics/ vids of that setup esp in a civic.

B0dyDr0pp3d

iTrader: (4)

Here is his build thread in an 08 Civic, 150 db's... I've heard it, its insane. I trust his opinion, he'll be helping with my build...

BlackedoutSI

Before this blows up.... My trunk isn't a 150+ db trunk. Realistically, it is a 41-42 on the TL on music. I don't claim my trunk to be loud... My only claim is a clean install, and a well balanced system.

Box specs.... 2.0 After Tuned at 32 Hertz W/ 2 3" Aeroports
Powersupply, Hifonics has been known to overrate their amps.... And between that and box rise, I think the power should be alright.

Seleniums... Everyone hates on them until they own a set. I've used them in quite a few installs, and like to run them active instead of using them with a passive crossover.

cfallsguy

iTrader: (1)

Yeah, I've checked it out before on SMD and recognized the name when he posted the link. Definitely a clean install and car. Not 150+ but few people put that kind of money into a trunk build, the biggest name to come to my mind at the moment for a trunk build is Thorshammer on SMD.

B0dyDr0pp3d

iTrader: (4)

Whatever, its still an insane system. 150 was stretching it, the + was a complete exaggeration on my part.

I just don't want 2 10's sealed in a pre-fab camaro box like everyone else. I believe this system for my SS will be perfect and was just what I was looking for.

So now you tell me the Hifonics amp was overrated??? I guess that's better than a brand new blown sub. Regardless this will probably be the best sounding system I've had.

BlackedoutSI

Generally, they are a little overrated. But they aren't bad for the money.

Madvibes has the baddest trunk build I've heard to date... Haven't heard thor's though.
http://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/boa...2hz-with-1-18/

MarioB also has a loud trunk. I helped out a little on that build (The second part of that build).
http://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/boa...supadted-5-26/

99Bluz28

iTrader: (35)

3 cu.ft. is to big, I'd limit the enclosure size to 1.8 cu.ft. MAX, otherwise the bass is going to be muddy. I would tune to 35hz if the very deepest isn't as important to you as a little higher DB level. Now if you want flatter deeper bass response then I'd tune it to 28hz. FYI, make sure you have your subsonic filter set close to you port tune frequency and your subs will last longer.
As far as 3 cu.ft. enclosure If you make as deep as possible it's not a problem.

BlackedoutSI

The box will be 2.0 AFTER displacement. Realistically, 2.2-2.4 cubes total.

This box isn't for numbers. I normally tune around 37-38 hertz, but I'm going with a route that Audio Innovations Ray suggested to me. If tuning is too low, I can definitely trim a few inches off the aeros. Subsonic will be adjusted accordingly.

01ssreda4

iTrader: (96)

You're not the installer are you?

99Bluz28

iTrader: (35)

Yeah tuning to 28hz will only require the port(3" dia.) to be 2.9" longer (10") , than tuning it to 32hz (7.1"), for 2 cu.ft. of course. I'd also recommend a Audio Control "epicenter" if you listen to very much music lacking deep bass, like classic rock. It does wonders giving classic rock deep bass.

Anyway, Enjoy!