Mini Toggle switch pin connectors???
03-17-2004, 12:06 AM
#1
TECH Resident
Thread Starter
iTrader: (4)
Join Date: May 2003
Location: Diamond Bar, CA
Posts: 859
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Mini Toggle switch pin connectors??? Does anyone know the best way to connect wires to the small pins on the underside of mini toggle switches? I have tried solder, heat shrink, the smallest female spade connectors I can find, duct tape, electrical tape...no good. Anyone have any special magic tricks? I want these permanently attached so they will NEVER come off!
Thanks!
Thanks!
03-17-2004, 09:06 AM
#3
TECH Resident
Thread Starter
iTrader: (4)
Join Date: May 2003
Location: Diamond Bar, CA
Posts: 859
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
That may have been my problem because I was melting the plastic that the pins were set in when trying to solder before. Man, I hate soldering!
03-18-2004, 09:53 AM
#4
Staging Lane
iTrader: (1)
Join Date: Oct 2003
Location: Bloomingdale IL
Posts: 60
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
radio shack sells a variable soldering iron that can be set from 5 watts to 45 watts, its a good choice.
Also buy rosin core solder 60/40 and try to get the thinnest one they have, it will make the job much easier , if the solder is to thick, it wont flow well and you will end up with a bad joint
Also buy rosin core solder 60/40 and try to get the thinnest one they have, it will make the job much easier , if the solder is to thick, it wont flow well and you will end up with a bad joint
03-18-2004, 12:36 PM
#5
Moderator
iTrader: (11)
Join Date: Mar 2002
Location: East Central Florida
Posts: 12,604
Likes: 0
Received 6 Likes
on
6 Posts
A temperature-controlled iron of high wattage is
best. A low-watt iron makes you more likely to
melt the plastic while waiting for its wimp output
to get the metal hot. You want bang!, done, outta
there.
Depending on where you get your switches, and the
finish on the leads, things can be a bit crusty. An
oxide on there will make soldering tough; you can
try working the terminals over with a brass or SS
"toothbrush" to help that. On really skanky surplus
you may just have to scrape it bright with an X-acto
knife and solder right to the brass base metal.
Final hint, I like to "tin" each piece (post and wire)
first, and then the final fusion is real quick and easy.
More steps, but no melting the switch while trying
to get the wire to take up solder, etc.
best. A low-watt iron makes you more likely to
melt the plastic while waiting for its wimp output
to get the metal hot. You want bang!, done, outta
there.
Depending on where you get your switches, and the
finish on the leads, things can be a bit crusty. An
oxide on there will make soldering tough; you can
try working the terminals over with a brass or SS
"toothbrush" to help that. On really skanky surplus
you may just have to scrape it bright with an X-acto
knife and solder right to the brass base metal.
Final hint, I like to "tin" each piece (post and wire)
first, and then the final fusion is real quick and easy.
More steps, but no melting the switch while trying
to get the wire to take up solder, etc.
