May 10, 2016, 02:03 PM
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drivers side window, switch problem.
drivers side window, switch problem. Lately, my window is been acting up, it's a brand new dorman, with regulator, it basically just stops working, full power, then bam, then it'll cut out, then cut back in, like it's losing power.
It's not doing the usually go up, slow down, and stop...wait a few mins and works again... it's doing it on the way down and up...and returns a few secs after with full power...and will function perfectly.
I suspect the switch might be bad? passenger is fine, also new... dorman..
I hear a click underneath the steering column when im pressing the switch to go up or down, no idea what that could be...
Also, is their adjustment im not aware of? I'm having a problem with my door not closing since the motor was put it, the window hits the t-top right before it's going to close, and it's super hard to get it to shut, you gotta slam it, i tried like every adjustment i dont get it... u can see the t-tops move when u shut the door..sometimes the window won't go up all the way, its almost like its hitting the weatherstrip wrong.
Thanks everyone..
It's not doing the usually go up, slow down, and stop...wait a few mins and works again... it's doing it on the way down and up...and returns a few secs after with full power...and will function perfectly.
I suspect the switch might be bad? passenger is fine, also new... dorman..
I hear a click underneath the steering column when im pressing the switch to go up or down, no idea what that could be...
Also, is their adjustment im not aware of? I'm having a problem with my door not closing since the motor was put it, the window hits the t-top right before it's going to close, and it's super hard to get it to shut, you gotta slam it, i tried like every adjustment i dont get it... u can see the t-tops move when u shut the door..sometimes the window won't go up all the way, its almost like its hitting the weatherstrip wrong.
Thanks everyone..
+1. Its probably not the motor though - it sounds like the unit is not installed properly. If that's the case, it may be binding up, which will cause the motor to shut off.
Don't worry about the clicking. That's just the express-down module. If you press the button, hear the click, and the window does not move - that means your button is fine.
Don't worry about the clicking. That's just the express-down module. If you press the button, hear the click, and the window does not move - that means your button is fine.
It was acting up today, I had the drivers switch pressed down, and the cars volts didnt move, passenger side did.
I have a new switch ordered.
I still can't figure out this window alignment stuff, the window hits the weatherstrip too quickly so the door has to be slammed to close, I tried every adjustment I could think of.
Oddly enough, If i roll it all the way up, but roll it down just a bit, it'll close perfectly, it seems when it gets all the way up the window will push in towards the car, there was an adjustment I was playing with that stops the window from going up to far, but it didn't really do anything, I also noticed, the window guide towards the rear of the door, when the window is turned all the way up, it'll actually move the bolted down guide up some, because the piece that's attached to the window with a star bolt reaches it too quickly I guess.
It's annoying and hard to explain I just want to be able to close the door right, Ive played with the adjustments 3 times now, for hours sometimes.
I think this issue is related to my regulator spring coming off inside the door, it's been like this since I bought the car, i had a new regulator and motor put in, and the door still closes the same, seems like a mess up from the factory?
I have a new switch ordered.
I still can't figure out this window alignment stuff, the window hits the weatherstrip too quickly so the door has to be slammed to close, I tried every adjustment I could think of.
Oddly enough, If i roll it all the way up, but roll it down just a bit, it'll close perfectly, it seems when it gets all the way up the window will push in towards the car, there was an adjustment I was playing with that stops the window from going up to far, but it didn't really do anything, I also noticed, the window guide towards the rear of the door, when the window is turned all the way up, it'll actually move the bolted down guide up some, because the piece that's attached to the window with a star bolt reaches it too quickly I guess.
It's annoying and hard to explain I just want to be able to close the door right, Ive played with the adjustments 3 times now, for hours sometimes.
I think this issue is related to my regulator spring coming off inside the door, it's been like this since I bought the car, i had a new regulator and motor put in, and the door still closes the same, seems like a mess up from the factory?
Its still probably not your siwtch... Classic binding or motor issue. You may try testing your window with the door open. Does it still act up when you do that? If not, its a 100% binding issue.
Here's the window alignment guide: http://shbox.com/1/adj_window.html Just make sure you do the adjustments in the order listed or you will be out of whack.
While you are back in there, get some SylGlyde from Napa. (That's the only place I can find it.) Its the exact match for your track grease and should be used liberally to lubricate your tracks and regulator. It will also help your issue.
A missing door regulator spring will make it harder for the motor to put the glass up and will cause the motor to burn out faster and have more issues like this. I assume your new regulator has a spring, though? If so, you could have a bent track or some other obstruction in the system. I'd try a good alignment first.
Who did your regulator install? Were the proper GM rivets used?
Here's the window alignment guide: http://shbox.com/1/adj_window.html Just make sure you do the adjustments in the order listed or you will be out of whack.
While you are back in there, get some SylGlyde from Napa. (That's the only place I can find it.) Its the exact match for your track grease and should be used liberally to lubricate your tracks and regulator. It will also help your issue.
A missing door regulator spring will make it harder for the motor to put the glass up and will cause the motor to burn out faster and have more issues like this. I assume your new regulator has a spring, though? If so, you could have a bent track or some other obstruction in the system. I'd try a good alignment first.
Who did your regulator install? Were the proper GM rivets used?
Yes regulator has a spring, it's new, local shop, I was going to order the rivets but the dorman kit came with aluminum rivets as someone said was needed on this site, tested it with a magnet, so they just used those, I had the door open, everything looks ok and the rivets aren't tearing into the door or anything at all, aluminum.
Thanks for the tips.
Thanks for the tips.
Staging Lane
Joined: Sep 2009
Posts: 68
Likes: 1
From: Brooklyn New York
I am having the same problem! 97 camaro, drive side window. Drive side window, one day refused to roll up. Took the door skin off and checked the wires going to the motor. Wires have power, but motor will not work. Order new motor, installed in door. Window goes up and down a little. But when window roll all the way down, motor goes dead. Back to square one. By the way, tested orginal window motor outside of the car. Motor works fine. Go figure. So its not the electrics cause there is power, but its not the window motor neither?
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I am having the same problem! 97 camaro, drive side window. Drive side window, one day refused to roll up. Took the door skin off and checked the wires going to the motor. Wires have power, but motor will not work. Order new motor, installed in door. Window goes up and down a little. But when window roll all the way down, motor goes dead. Back to square one. By the way, tested orginal window motor outside of the car. Motor works fine. Go figure. So its not the electrics cause there is power, but its not the window motor neither?
You should take the motor back and go for the Dorman model, which is 100% new parts and an updated design.
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Verdad Gallardo Staging Lane
Joined: Sep 2009
Posts: 68
Likes: 1
From: Brooklyn New York
ok thank you. I will try the resistor mod, that i read up on. I will take the old window motor and perform the mod on that and see if that works out. But question? Is there something else that stop the window, when completely rolled up or down other than the resistor built into the motor itself? Like some type of safety stop, that when it goes to a certain point will kill power to the motor.
Are the rivets that come with the newer dorman regulator/motor packages, aluminum? I tested one and it wasn't magnetic, part if it was, the long rod part i think, not the hat/jacket, so im sure it's aluminum.
Seems the two left rivets are moving some, and some of the fiberglass is chipping off the outside, are they supposed to move at all? Maybe I'm just being ****, the chipped outside could've been from the removal of the old assembly, they move alittle when the window goes full down, it does seem the hole is bigger then the rivet..but still...
I did fix my alignment issues, now this I have to worry about! its never ending
Seems the two left rivets are moving some, and some of the fiberglass is chipping off the outside, are they supposed to move at all? Maybe I'm just being ****, the chipped outside could've been from the removal of the old assembly, they move alittle when the window goes full down, it does seem the hole is bigger then the rivet..but still...
I did fix my alignment issues, now this I have to worry about! its never ending
Its normal for those holes to get bigger the more that a regulator is removed/replaced, but you won't want those rivets moving. If they move, they could slowly tear those holes larger. If you do have movement, you may want to proactively put in a backing plate.
Staging Lane
Joined: Sep 2009
Posts: 68
Likes: 1
From: Brooklyn New York
nope! bought it off of ebay and has been in the car over a month. This is the first time i rolled the window complete down. When i installed the motor, i just ran outside the door, then up and down a litte in the door. But never ran complete down for fair it would get stuck again. Then friday while i was talking to a friend, that was standing outside the car. I rolled the window completey down, then when i drove off, bitch! It didn't want to roll up. The window got me again! got me good.
Should I have the shop re-do the rivets so they are tighter? what do u think about that? seems like it hasnt really cut threw yet just moving around some? torque of the new motor/regulator probably causing it to move a little.
If a shop did the original job, you should take it back to them and show them that they did a poor job and need to fix it. (Those rivets shouldn't move.)
That being said, its not going to be an issue of tightness. The holes for the rivets are probably just too big. You might infer that they drilled them out too big. They could fix the composite or add a reinforcing plate.
That being said, its not going to be an issue of tightness. The holes for the rivets are probably just too big. You might infer that they drilled them out too big. They could fix the composite or add a reinforcing plate.
Copy & Paste Moderator
Joined: Apr 2002
Posts: 9,764
Likes: 208
From: Eastern MA
On really cold days, my driver's side window doesn't work. Push the button and nothing happens. On not-so-cold days it works (but slower than newer/other cars). Its not the original motor either.
I think I'm going to bypass the thermal breaker in the motor and also bypass the auto-down using relays and thicker wire to get more voltage and current to the motor.
I wonder if something like the Catz Zeta system would help here? Its a booster/ballast intended for Halogen Headlights. It takes the cars 12v-14v input voltage and outputs 15V+. I've never seen anyone use it for a window motor so I don't know if it will work or cause a fire.
I think I'm going to bypass the thermal breaker in the motor and also bypass the auto-down using relays and thicker wire to get more voltage and current to the motor.
I wonder if something like the Catz Zeta system would help here? Its a booster/ballast intended for Halogen Headlights. It takes the cars 12v-14v input voltage and outputs 15V+. I've never seen anyone use it for a window motor so I don't know if it will work or cause a fire.
On really cold days, my driver's side window doesn't work. Push the button and nothing happens. On not-so-cold days it works (but slower than newer/other cars). Its not the original motor either.
I think I'm going to bypass the thermal breaker in the motor and also bypass the auto-down using relays and thicker wire to get more voltage and current to the motor.
I wonder if something like the Catz Zeta system would help here? Its a booster/ballast intended for Halogen Headlights. It takes the cars 12v-14v input voltage and outputs 15V+. I've never seen anyone use it for a window motor so I don't know if it will work or cause a fire.
I think I'm going to bypass the thermal breaker in the motor and also bypass the auto-down using relays and thicker wire to get more voltage and current to the motor.
I wonder if something like the Catz Zeta system would help here? Its a booster/ballast intended for Halogen Headlights. It takes the cars 12v-14v input voltage and outputs 15V+. I've never seen anyone use it for a window motor so I don't know if it will work or cause a fire.
and wssix99, I will furnish this information to the shop when the weather gets better and I bring it there, I as well presume the holes were drilled too big, also, I noticed on some rivets, the center is deeper, and others is almost flush with the jacket/hat.