Amp Suggestions
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Amp Suggestions On a budget. This is the sub I have Kicker CVX10'. Have it wired for a 2ohm load. Was looking at RE Audio amps but couldn't really find any to get close to my 600watt rms level it shows the sub is capable of.
SUB: http://kicker.com/comp_vx
SUB: http://kicker.com/comp_vx
Alpine MRP M500 puts out a solid 500rms at 2ohms and reasonably priced at Amazon, I have one powering a 10 inch alpine type-s at 300rms/4ohms, but I plan to switch to a type r at 2ohms to get the most punch.
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Precision Power Phantom P1000.1. It's 1000WRMS and it can blow your subwoofer, so just be careful setting your gains. If you're unsure, you can learn how to do it (and a lot of other car audio stuff) at www.bcae1.com.
Alternative: Arc Audio FD600.1. Arc Audio is a great brand. Avoid their XXD line, though. Those ones were a bit problematic and are being replaced with the okay-but-expensive XDI line.
Alternative: Arc Audio FD600.1. Arc Audio is a great brand. Avoid their XXD line, though. Those ones were a bit problematic and are being replaced with the okay-but-expensive XDI line.
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Precision Power Phantom P1000.1. It's 1000WRMS and it can blow your subwoofer, so just be careful setting your gains. If you're unsure, you can learn how to do it (and a lot of other car audio stuff) at www.bcae1.com.
Alternative: Arc Audio FD600.1. Arc Audio is a great brand. Avoid their XXD line, though. Those ones were a bit problematic and are being replaced with the okay-but-expensive XDI line.
Alternative: Arc Audio FD600.1. Arc Audio is a great brand. Avoid their XXD line, though. Those ones were a bit problematic and are being replaced with the okay-but-expensive XDI line.
This is going in the girls car. So knowing how her dad is he will play with it. I don't wanna chance it on being to powerful of a amp. Other options than those?
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If you want to make it tough for him to blow the sub, then you'll need a 250 or 300 WRMS amp. A 500WRMS amp can blow a 500WRMS speaker if you (meaning whoever) suck at setting it up.
Last edited by dragonrage; Feb 15, 2012 at 04:47 PM.
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Specs: 550 watts RMS x 1 at 2 ohms
It slammed but don't wanna spend that kinda money again on another amp. Was looking at that Alpine amp suggested above and it sells relatively cheap on Ebay and on crutchfield has tons of good reviews.
Anyone else have suggestions? I'd like to get a amp around at 500 watts rms at 2 ohm.
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Alpine amps have actually been pretty problematic a lot of the time, especially PDX. I do not personally recommend them. But if that's what you want to buy, then I'm not going to stop you. You could buy one and have it for 30 years with no trouble at all. Just depends.
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Not too bad.
I'd still recommend the Alpine MRP M500, have it in both my vehicles for years without no issues, it's a solid performer for it's price, I wouldn't really consider it problematic as stated above at all, there's going to be bad eggs with anything.
I'd still recommend the Alpine MRP M500, have it in both my vehicles for years without no issues, it's a solid performer for it's price, I wouldn't really consider it problematic as stated above at all, there's going to be bad eggs with anything.
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and DO NOT go for the JL JX500, its a class AB amp, which is a method of amplification that has been fazed out, especially for sub amps, because its less efficient meaning it runs hotter and needs more current, and the JL JX's run especially hot...class AB is now reserved for ultimate SQ amps like my Audison Voce's exclusively which even have a D class sub amp like most
The Alpine MRP amps are great for the money especially because they're almost fully replaced by Alpines new MRX series amps, meaning they're CHEAP right now. So I'd reccomend an MRP-M1000 for a 600rms woofer for sure, but the MRP-M500 will get the job done for about 30% less $$, or the version 2 of the MRX amps come out next month and theres a 700w mono amp, i believe its called the MRX-M70 IIRC, but it will likely cost you the same as the MRP-M1000 which is perfect for a balance of performance and value for sure...sorry for the long *** post
but i hope this helps TECH Addict
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No, it's not distortion that kills speakers. It's power. (Well, clipping does kill tweeters in particular, since it moves some of the power up to higher frequencies, but that's irrelevant in the case of a subwoofer.) And why you are trying to correct me in stating that an improperly set up amp is what kills speakers - which is what I said to begin with - is beyond me.
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No, it's not distortion that kills speakers. It's power. (Well, clipping does kill tweeters in particular, since it moves some of the power up to higher frequencies, but that's irrelevant in the case of a subwoofer.) And why you are trying to correct me in stating that an improperly set up amp is what kills speakers - which is what I said to begin with - is beyond me.
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Now I know why ur name is dragonrage, calm down u also said Alpine amps are problematic when they're one of the most dependable brands around. next Are you going to try to tell me that the gain **** adjusts power now...it's is absolutely not power, it's distortion that's why a 50w rms Mcintosh amp blows away a 1000w rms crunch amp
On the other hand - I have 2 Alpine MRP's in my Jeep that are doing a fine job. I haven't read about any problems with them.
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The first version of the PDX amps were only made for 1 year before a redesign, but the version 2 is still being made, the new 5 channel actually just came out...I have a version 1 PDX1.1000 and it works perfectly
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It is power that kills speakers. Power is what causes the voice coil of the speaker to heat up because the voice coil has impedance and thus dissipates power. When there is too much power, the voice coil overheats and burns or the epoxy melts and messes up the speaker. If you would like to explain the physics behind why I am incorrect and how distortion kills a speaker, feel free. Yes, clipping can make the cooling of the speaker worse by causing the speaker to have 'dead time' at the clipped peaks of the waveform, but it's still the power running through the voice coil that is causing it to heat up.
Alpine PDX amps have been super problematic, also. A simple Google search could confirm this. Believe it or don't believe it... your call. But whether you believe it or not, it is a fact. Does it extend to Alpine's AB amps? Maybe, maybe not. Personally, I'm just not a fan of Alpine stuff in general. But either way, if they can produce problematic PDX amps year after year (MAYBE the latest ones are fixed, but I don't think they've been around long enough to know) then I don't trust them with their cheap amps. It wasn't just the first-gen PDX amps that were problematic.
Alpine PDX amps have been super problematic, also. A simple Google search could confirm this. Believe it or don't believe it... your call. But whether you believe it or not, it is a fact. Does it extend to Alpine's AB amps? Maybe, maybe not. Personally, I'm just not a fan of Alpine stuff in general. But either way, if they can produce problematic PDX amps year after year (MAYBE the latest ones are fixed, but I don't think they've been around long enough to know) then I don't trust them with their cheap amps. It wasn't just the first-gen PDX amps that were problematic.
Last edited by dragonrage; Feb 21, 2012 at 01:22 PM.
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Ok your the car audio god and know all about everything...thanks for the privilege of listening to your rants...I sell and install hundreds of Alpine amps every year and the new PDXs are better than a JL HDs or any other D class (except Hertz HDP IMO), especially for the price, and they've been out for 3 years now so us pros are well aware of the few problems they do have, I don't think I've had even 1 PDX-M12 come back ever
It is better for any speaker to be on a more powerful, higher quality amp rather than cheap garbage...over powering is better than under powering in every situation...in order to attempt at getting the same output from a sub that's on a 300 watt rms amp, rather than a 1000w rms amp, your going to have to push the smaller amp much harder causing it to distort, this will limit the output of the sub but someone who can't tell the difference between distorted bass and clean bass will turn that **** all the way up and blow the sub, then if they have a 1kw rms amp it can be set to stop at a certain gain before it distorts while still letting the maximum output of the sub be reached with a clean signal
It is better for any speaker to be on a more powerful, higher quality amp rather than cheap garbage...over powering is better than under powering in every situation...in order to attempt at getting the same output from a sub that's on a 300 watt rms amp, rather than a 1000w rms amp, your going to have to push the smaller amp much harder causing it to distort, this will limit the output of the sub but someone who can't tell the difference between distorted bass and clean bass will turn that **** all the way up and blow the sub, then if they have a 1kw rms amp it can be set to stop at a certain gain before it distorts while still letting the maximum output of the sub be reached with a clean signal
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From: Capshaw, AL
Ok your the car audio god and know all about everything...thanks for the privilege of listening to your rants...I sell and install hundreds of Alpine amps every year and the new PDXs are better than a JL HDs or any other D class (except Hertz HDP IMO), especially for the price, and they've been out for 3 years now so us pros are well aware of the few problems they do have, I don't think I've had even 1 PDX-M12 come back ever
It is better for any speaker to be on a more powerful, higher quality amp rather than cheap garbage...over powering is better than under powering in every situation...in order to attempt at getting the same output from a sub that's on a 300 watt rms amp, rather than a 1000w rms amp, your going to have to push the smaller amp much harder causing it to distort, this will limit the output of the sub but someone who can't tell the difference between distorted bass and clean bass will turn that **** all the way up and blow the sub, then if they have a 1kw rms amp it can be set to stop at a certain gain before it distorts while still letting the maximum output of the sub be reached with a clean signal
It is better for any speaker to be on a more powerful, higher quality amp rather than cheap garbage...over powering is better than under powering in every situation...in order to attempt at getting the same output from a sub that's on a 300 watt rms amp, rather than a 1000w rms amp, your going to have to push the smaller amp much harder causing it to distort, this will limit the output of the sub but someone who can't tell the difference between distorted bass and clean bass will turn that **** all the way up and blow the sub, then if they have a 1kw rms amp it can be set to stop at a certain gain before it distorts while still letting the maximum output of the sub be reached with a clean signal
You install hundreds every year? Wow! That would be an average of about one everyday. Business must be good.