Aftermarket HU, Interesting alarm problems
#1
Teching In
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Hey guys, I need help with my install.
I have done a ton of system installs. When I was younger I jerry rigged everything, but as I got older and more experienced I started to do things the right way. I cant count how many systems I've installed in my own vehicles and others without any problems, but this T/A is kicking my ***.
Here is what I have:
Kenwood KIV-BT901
Kicker 6.5 (w Tweets) up front
Kicker 6.5 woofers in the sails
Rear panels diconnected
Kicker 10" sub with the usuall custom box on drivers side
Kicker ZX250.2 for the highs
Kicker ZX400.1 for the sub
Here is how the hook up is:
The head unit is hooked up to the stock harness with an aftermarket adapter
Crossovers in the kick panels with speaker cable run down one side of the car
The RCA's and amp control wire are run through the center console
Power is run down the opposite side of the car from the audio lines
Amps are grounded to the hatch release bracket with the paint dremeled off
Here are my problems:
When I turn of the car, open the door and close it, the speakers pop, and then I get a buzzing sound (like a cicada) for 5 seconds. The amps stay powered on for about 30 seconds, then the amp protection lights blink and shut down. If I enter the car during the 30 seconds, I get the buzzing sound every time I close the door. With the car off and unarmed the alarm light on the dash blinks. When I arm the alarm, the light does not blink, and the amps go through there 30 second power cyle and pop again.
WTF happend? I hooked up a dif radio...same problem. I disconnected the stock amp...same problem. I switched the amp lead from the head unit amp control to an ingition switched source...same problem.
HELP! I hate turning my car off. I feel like a jackass. lol
I have done a ton of system installs. When I was younger I jerry rigged everything, but as I got older and more experienced I started to do things the right way. I cant count how many systems I've installed in my own vehicles and others without any problems, but this T/A is kicking my ***.
Here is what I have:
Kenwood KIV-BT901
Kicker 6.5 (w Tweets) up front
Kicker 6.5 woofers in the sails
Rear panels diconnected
Kicker 10" sub with the usuall custom box on drivers side
Kicker ZX250.2 for the highs
Kicker ZX400.1 for the sub
Here is how the hook up is:
The head unit is hooked up to the stock harness with an aftermarket adapter
Crossovers in the kick panels with speaker cable run down one side of the car
The RCA's and amp control wire are run through the center console
Power is run down the opposite side of the car from the audio lines
Amps are grounded to the hatch release bracket with the paint dremeled off
Here are my problems:
When I turn of the car, open the door and close it, the speakers pop, and then I get a buzzing sound (like a cicada) for 5 seconds. The amps stay powered on for about 30 seconds, then the amp protection lights blink and shut down. If I enter the car during the 30 seconds, I get the buzzing sound every time I close the door. With the car off and unarmed the alarm light on the dash blinks. When I arm the alarm, the light does not blink, and the amps go through there 30 second power cyle and pop again.
WTF happend? I hooked up a dif radio...same problem. I disconnected the stock amp...same problem. I switched the amp lead from the head unit amp control to an ingition switched source...same problem.
HELP! I hate turning my car off. I feel like a jackass. lol
#2
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Does it sound fine otherwise?
Try just using an iPod or something plugged directly into the amps, and disconnect the remote trigger from the head unit at the amps and just jump from the positive power to the trigger input to get them to turn on, if the problem goes away you should require the head unit without using the factory wiring at all except for ignition if you have to take it from there
Also try using a relay for the trigger wire
And is it right that your using a 2ch amp for all 4 of the full range speakers? That could be an issue, as well they're prevent you from using the time alignment on that deck
Try just using an iPod or something plugged directly into the amps, and disconnect the remote trigger from the head unit at the amps and just jump from the positive power to the trigger input to get them to turn on, if the problem goes away you should require the head unit without using the factory wiring at all except for ignition if you have to take it from there
Also try using a relay for the trigger wire
And is it right that your using a 2ch amp for all 4 of the full range speakers? That could be an issue, as well they're prevent you from using the time alignment on that deck
#3
Teching In
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Join Date: Dec 2011
Location: North Smithfield, RI
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Problem fixed.
All it took was a new set of eyes. A friend came by, troubleshot for twenty minutes, noticed that there was a DC invert switch on both amps set to audio instead of 12v.
I can't believe it was that feakin simple.
V8ImpSS, thanks for the tips. I am running all for off of two channels but they are impedence matched to the amp. I only left/right and no fade but I'm cool with that in such a tiny space.
All it took was a new set of eyes. A friend came by, troubleshot for twenty minutes, noticed that there was a DC invert switch on both amps set to audio instead of 12v.
I can't believe it was that feakin simple.
V8ImpSS, thanks for the tips. I am running all for off of two channels but they are impedence matched to the amp. I only left/right and no fade but I'm cool with that in such a tiny space.