I'm about to replace my alternator in my 2000WS6 (ls1) since I have a bad diode in my stock alt, and was planning on doing the big3 plus upgrading to the escalate 145A instead of stock.

After reading through several threads, I would just like to confirm that this is what I need to pick up:

http://www.oreillyauto.com/site/c/de...ord=alternator

http://www.oreillyauto.com/site/c/de...keyword=pt1136


Thanks!

And I've downsized my system over the years, but I still have 3 amps (1-15" solobaric sub and highs/mids) and 2 lightning capacitors. Side question - Is there any way to test if the caps are still working right?

 

I bought my alternator off Ebay for about $65 that came out of a Tahoe truck..there was an entire thread made about this and thats how I came to know about it...if I find it, I will post the link.


https://ls1tech.com/forums/generatio...-failures.html

 

Ok, great and thanks for the link! I looked at that one at some point when searching tons of threads on this but it's nice to have the direct link to it now. And I'll definitely check the e-bay option out. I was just wanting to make sure I was looking at the right alternator that would fit w/o needing a custom bracket or anything like that.

John

 

https://ls1tech.com/forums/generatio...lternator.html

and this

 

Well, after reading through most of the the alternator replacement links, I think I may have jumped the gun a bit getting the o'reilly one listed above. I'm sure it would be fine as it would still be an upgrade over the 105A stock one, but given the experiences of others, I'm going to return it (haven't even opened it yet) and order the AD244-HD170 from quick start. It will be overkill, but its just 30 bucks more than the 145HD so it should be the last one that ever goes on that car given how little I drive it.

 

alternator died on me today so ill be upgrading to a 145amp tomorrow. luckily i have the day off tomorrow so it picked a good day for it to happen

 

as i was looking up alternators i realized that the 145amp truck swap didnt work for me since i have the 3800. made a few calls and was able to find a 200amp at a local shop. alt swapped out, new optima red top good to go.
right now im running the stock monsoon, and a 10w3v3 in the high output jl box with a 500/1 amp. once my discount kicks in (i work for a company that owns 1 of the big audio dealers in michigan) ill be upgrading everything and be running around double-triple the power i am now.

 

Nice, I went with a 200A alternator as well. It will be so overkill for what I have left for my system. I have 2 capacitors and don't even listen to anything loud. Half the time I just like listening to the cam since I may only drive the car once a week, if that! lol

 

i still have to pick up some 0/1ga to upgrade my line off the alt, didnt have time yesterday and probably wont till sunday.
90% of my music listening is in the car, and i like it clean and loud. normally i dont buy jl since you pay too much for the name, but with the discount i get it makes jl a lot more tempting. still going over my build in my head but im leaning towards c5 components in the front and either c5 or c3 in the rear. 75-100rms per channel. subs are still my big decision. pretty sure im switching to sealed, but not sure if i want to go dual 10w6, dual 10w7, or even single 12w6. i want clean tight bass, but know im going to lose some of that hard hit when i switch from ported to sealed.

 

Get it swapped? My car hasn't moved from its spot in the garage in about 10 days. I'm hoping to get to mine this weekend if I have time. It is so tough getting the motivation to swap it when I don't even have time the drive the car once a week when it is running right... I'll probably spend more time swapping it than I do driving the car in 6 months...

Just doing any type of work on it though will likely get me more motivated to do some of the other projects I still have an interest in that I wanted to do 8-10 yrs ago when I was heavily modding the car. First on my list is an upgraded brake system with larger rotors, calipers and stainless lines. I still have the stock brakes (rotors, pads and all) that came on it from the dealer. I always had a hard time convincing myself to take it all off the car if it hadn't even one through a set of pads yet...

 

no ive been pretty busy. i also need to pick up a couple ring terminals to throw on the 0 gauge i have. if i get done early tomorrow ill stop on my way to work and pick a couple up. then i may have a little time wed to do the swap.

 

Well you shouldn't have any trouble with that especially since you don't lose much voltage on your short runs compared to long with low voltage applications. I'm guessing you already have the 0awg going to your amps? I just picked up some 2awg to redo my big 3 (I had some 8 awg jumpers supplementing the stock alternator wiring setup, but I'm removing everything and completely replacing it with the 2awg) I think I have 1awg going back to my hatch (I'll have to double check - not sure anymore, that was 12 yrs ago). I think my capacitors helped a quite a bit when dealing with that much wire length.

Here are some voltage drop comparisons with wire size and length as variable. I did a couple of different loads: (I even added 50A to the short wires compared to the long one goes straight to the hatch, bc in addition to the system, the rest of the car still needs power)

12V 200A 3' 6awg = .48 voltage drop
12V 200A 3' 4awg = .29 voltage drop
12V 200A 3' 2awg = .19 voltage drop
12V 200A 3' 1awg = .16 voltage drop

12V 150A 15' 4awg = 1.08 voltage drop
12V 150A 15' 2awg = .72 voltage drop
12V 150A 15' 1awg = .58 voltage drop



12V 150A 3' 6awg = .36 voltage drop
12V 150A 3' 4awg = .22 voltage drop
12V 150A 3' 2awg = .14 voltage drop

12V 100A 15' 4awg = .72 voltage drop
12V 100A 15' 2awg = .48 voltage drop
12V 100A 15' 1awg = .39 voltage drop

And I'm not saying you didn't know any of this, I just hadn't figured any of this in so long for a 12v car application and I was just curious myself to see how the actual numbers would turn out, not just the theory... I thought others might find it interesting as well.

Here's the link to a calculator if anyone else wants to calculate their setup or be able to make better decisions about a build:
http://www.supercircuits.com/resourc...ls/voltageDrop