alpine type R thin?
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Anybody using this? I wanna get a stealth box and a friend said I needed a bigger box for my type of music. So I thought maybe a thin sub would give me the extra room. Anybody have experience with this sub or any other "thin" sub?
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Well hell yea, cause I listen to mainly rock and metal, my wife likes rap... But anyways lol. So was that in a stealth box?
I use to have just type R speakers in my srt4 and a stock head unit and it rattled stuff, then had two type R 12's in my Lexus and that was nuts. So I hope combining the two will do good
I use to have just type R speakers in my srt4 and a stock head unit and it rattled stuff, then had two type R 12's in my Lexus and that was nuts. So I hope combining the two will do good
Last edited by WhiteBird00; 08-17-2012 at 06:58 AM. Reason: Merge consecutive posts
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Subs do need air to make music, but the fact that it is thin and thus has more available air does not automatically necessitate that it will be louder. Look at the recommended box sizes for various subs and see which subs will function good in the space you have available.
Additionally, putting more power to it could help to compensate.
Additionally, putting more power to it could help to compensate.
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Since when? You need that air space, thats why most sub boxes are so big. My cousin use to build boxes for competition cars and they where always big. Why else would people give up there entire trunk for the box, if it made no difference.
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I know you need air space, but different sizes elicit different results. You can have a box that's too small, and similarly you can have boxes that are too big. In competitions, the subwoofers that are utilized to achieve high SPL levels (read: get loud) are best suited in larger boxes. Certain subs work better in certain enclosures.
Your best bet is to look at how much cuft. is available in the stealth box, or whatever box you're looking to get and then to see what subs work good in that size.
For example, if you go to JL's website and look at the page for the W6v2, it reads "The 10W6v2 is best used with amplifier power in the 200W - 600W range and is optimized to operate in a 0.625 cu. ft. (17.7 l) sealed enclosure, or a 0.75 cu. ft. (21.2 l) ported enclosure. Detailed enclosure recommendations can be found in the "Specifications" tab."
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The since when was a mistake. I miss read your post cause im a dumbass. But thanks for the info. And the box isn't very big, idk if you have seen the stealth box but it's just big enough for a 10" woofer. But ill look at jl's site
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ok hell yea
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Don't get a thin sub, there are plenty regular subs that work well in stealth boxes. The recommended sealed volume for the thin type r is .35 cu ft, most stealth boxes are about .6 cu ft, and its way to damn expensive. If you want a type r, go with the regular, although a lot of people don't like type r's in sealed enclosures and I agree, but it may work for you.
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How does the extra space harm the sound? I'm no expert that why I ask. I have built a few boxes and installed plenty, and what's the sound difference between sealed and ported? I didn't put much thought into that. Is there away to port a stealth box?
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Because you cant just build a giant box, put any random speaker in it and think that its good. You say you build a few boxes, did you go by the recommended enclosure volume or did you just build a big box and cut a hole and screw a speaker in it? The reason "competition" boxes are so massive is because they are housing internal ports, the size and length of which determine what freq. the box is tuned to. Bigger doesn't mean better, it needs to be optimized for what speaker(s) you will be using, which is what you should figure out first. Can you port a stealth box, internally...no. Can you modify to run an external port....probably but its a lot of work to make something that will take up a lot more space and look ridiculous. The other option would be to use a passive radiator, even that may be too much work to retrofit into a premade stealth box. If it matters that much, do some reading http://www.soundsolutionsaudio.com/forum/ is a good place to start. If not then just get a stealth box, whatever 10" that will work with .6 cubes and an amp to match and enjoy it.
Here's a thread on a passive radiator set up, http://www.soundsolutionsaudio.com/f...%20%20radiator
PR vid
Here's a thread on a passive radiator set up, http://www.soundsolutionsaudio.com/f...%20%20radiator
PR vid
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ok cool thanks man, yea the boxes I have built were not my design. Few times helped my cousin and twice with my stepdad all of which they had a pre determined layout. But from what I could tell they were just basic. The most recent was with my stepdad. We built pretty much just a big rectangle with a "muffler" set up. It had two dividers in it that was half the height and the full length. One mounted to the top the other to the bottom on either side of the sub a few inches away. And with a type s 12 it rattles my sisters Tiburon when the bass is all the way up. But idk if he found the design online or just went with it. But thanks for all the info and reading material.
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I have the JL 10w3 in mine, honestly no complaints at all... I love it, and have plenty of room for whatever in the hatch. Its decently loud, and sounds good.