Another blinker problem
06-04-2013, 01:25 PM
#21
The bulb type is 3157. It's a wedge-base bulb with dual intensity (like two filaments in a standard bulb - bright and dim).
You should look for SMD or SMT tower style bulbs because the original bulbs point upwards and LEDs are directional. You can ignore the warning on the superbrightleds site about not being suitable for GM DRLs - they are referring to newer GM models that use pulse width modulation (PWM) to reduce output power (PWM is bad for LEDs). Our cars don't do that - they run the DRLs at full power. Autolumination has some 60-LED SMT tower bulbs that are wide angle and look great in our front housings.
You should look for SMD or SMT tower style bulbs because the original bulbs point upwards and LEDs are directional. You can ignore the warning on the superbrightleds site about not being suitable for GM DRLs - they are referring to newer GM models that use pulse width modulation (PWM) to reduce output power (PWM is bad for LEDs). Our cars don't do that - they run the DRLs at full power. Autolumination has some 60-LED SMT tower bulbs that are wide angle and look great in our front housings.
06-04-2013, 06:29 PM
#23
I think there was someone on here who found aftermarket TA lenses with glass fronts, but I could be incorrect.
06-04-2013, 07:01 PM
#24
I think its just chance and the cracking is more prone to come from road debris vs. quality issues in the manufacture of the lenses. We have plastic parts on the part of the car that's head-first in to the wind, debris, etc. so they are bound to crack. Its just a roll of the dice.
I found the ones with c6 housings. Those look badass, but they looked like a lot of work to get them to fit. Im gonna compare prices to see if theyre worth it since im buying new housings anyway.
06-04-2013, 09:55 PM
#26
X2 for the LEDs. I have the same issue for about a year swapped out two sets of lenses and three sockets and about a million different seals still had the problem. Swapped to LEDs and the socket still looks as good as new. If you have clear lenses the lighting looks much cleaner than a regular bulb. Friend of mine has a c5 vette that he put a set up in called "switch back" or "flash back". When turned on the bulb white, when you signal it flashes from white to amber. Dunno if they make it for fbodies buy just a though if you looking to make some changes
06-04-2013, 10:13 PM
#27
This thread has a link to aftermarket lenses you might be interested in.
https://ls1tech.com/forums/general-m...ng-please.html
https://ls1tech.com/forums/general-m...ng-please.html
If im not mistaken im looking for EC12 flashers right?
X2 for the LEDs. I have the same issue for about a year swapped out two sets of lenses and three sockets and about a million different seals still had the problem. Swapped to LEDs and the socket still looks as good as new. If you have clear lenses the lighting looks much cleaner than a regular bulb. Friend of mine has a c5 vette that he put a set up in called "switch back" or "flash back". When turned on the bulb white, when you signal it flashes from white to amber. Dunno if they make it for fbodies buy just a though if you looking to make some changes
06-04-2013, 10:36 PM
#28
The bulb type is 3157. It's a wedge-base bulb with dual intensity (like two filaments in a standard bulb - bright and dim).
You should look for SMD or SMT tower style bulbs because the original bulbs point upwards and LEDs are directional. You can ignore the warning on the superbrightleds site about not being suitable for GM DRLs - they are referring to newer GM models that use pulse width modulation (PWM) to reduce output power (PWM is bad for LEDs). Our cars don't do that - they run the DRLs at full power. Autolumination has some 60-LED SMT tower bulbs that are wide angle and look great in our front housings.
You should look for SMD or SMT tower style bulbs because the original bulbs point upwards and LEDs are directional. You can ignore the warning on the superbrightleds site about not being suitable for GM DRLs - they are referring to newer GM models that use pulse width modulation (PWM) to reduce output power (PWM is bad for LEDs). Our cars don't do that - they run the DRLs at full power. Autolumination has some 60-LED SMT tower bulbs that are wide angle and look great in our front housings.
I saw they cost 29.99 each and i dont need the fancy ones with two colors. Can any SMT or SMD tower style bulb work? or will they look bad?
also, will these flashers work?
http://www.ebay.com/itm/12V-LED-FLASHER-for-LED-taillights-turn-signals-NEW-/330784829440?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&hash=item4d044ff000&vxp=mtr
06-05-2013, 07:35 AM
#29
You can use any 3157 tower style LED bulb but you get what you pay for. The less expensive ones will be less powerful and therefor not as bright. The 48 SMT wide angle bulbs for $19.99 would probably work fairly well. Anything less than that would likely be rather dim. The question is do you want replacements that will just work or do you actually want to be seen?
I can't really tell from that image if that is the correct flasher (my old eyes aren't what they used to be) but as long as it's a two prong flasher it should work. However, if you don't plan to replace the tail lights with LEDs as well, an EL12 electronic flasher available at any parts store will be good enough to handle only the fronts being LED - and it's a plug in replacement that doesn't require a separate ground wire.
I can't really tell from that image if that is the correct flasher (my old eyes aren't what they used to be) but as long as it's a two prong flasher it should work. However, if you don't plan to replace the tail lights with LEDs as well, an EL12 electronic flasher available at any parts store will be good enough to handle only the fronts being LED - and it's a plug in replacement that doesn't require a separate ground wire.
06-05-2013, 07:39 AM
#30
I think its just chance and the cracking is more prone to come from road debris vs. quality issues in the manufacture of the lenses. We have plastic parts on the part of the car that's head-first in to the wind, debris, etc. so they are bound to crack. Its just a roll of the dice.
06-23-2013, 01:13 AM
#32
Heres an updated to the thread.
I bought the housings from amazon aswell as the flasher. I ended up buying the el12 flasher instead. I thought i needed two flasher so i ended up buying two, but i only used one. Im not sure if i overlooked something there.
The housing looks really nice. Makes the front look nicer overall. I also drilled two small holes under the housing to give water an escape route if it gets in again.
I installed them from engine bay after manually lifting the headlight and removing the black cover. It was easier than i thought it would be.
These are the bulbs i bought from autolumination.
I didnt need the switchback bulbs so i went with these instead. They're brighter than the stock ones but not too bright. (Maybe the new housings help with that)
And finally i bought sockets from rockauto. Theyre in clearance so i bought 4 instead of 2.
Thanks for the help again, much easier than it might sound.
I bought the housings from amazon aswell as the flasher. I ended up buying the el12 flasher instead. I thought i needed two flasher so i ended up buying two, but i only used one. Im not sure if i overlooked something there.
The housing looks really nice. Makes the front look nicer overall. I also drilled two small holes under the housing to give water an escape route if it gets in again.
I installed them from engine bay after manually lifting the headlight and removing the black cover. It was easier than i thought it would be.
These are the bulbs i bought from autolumination.
I didnt need the switchback bulbs so i went with these instead. They're brighter than the stock ones but not too bright. (Maybe the new housings help with that)
And finally i bought sockets from rockauto. Theyre in clearance so i bought 4 instead of 2.
Thanks for the help again, much easier than it might sound.
