Front Blinker is Corroded. Need Help Fixing Please
Thread Starter
TECH Resident
Joined: Aug 2011
Posts: 828
Likes: 11
From: 4o5
Front Blinker is Corroded. Need Help Fixing Please Hey everyone
Since I bought my car a month ago the blinkers havent worked correctly at all. When I flip the blinker either left or right, the blinker will just stay on (sometimes the left side will blink as it should, both front and rear, but thats just sometimes not all the time.) When I turn the hazards on, all lights flash besides the front right. So, I got under there to replace the bulb and found the housing to be corroded as hell. I managed to get the old bulb out and put a new one in, but no luck with it flashing. I then went ahead and checked the fuses anyway, but they are all ok.
So my question is, am I going to have to replace the housing? Where do I order it and how much does it cost? I wanted to eventually upgrade the front blinkers with switchback LEDs, so this is as good of a time as ever so do I just use stock housings for the blinkers or do I change both sides out and put in something new. I've read I need to install some module with LED blinkers, otherwise it won't blink correctly?
If you can help me out with this situation I would greatly appreciate it!
Since I bought my car a month ago the blinkers havent worked correctly at all. When I flip the blinker either left or right, the blinker will just stay on (sometimes the left side will blink as it should, both front and rear, but thats just sometimes not all the time.) When I turn the hazards on, all lights flash besides the front right. So, I got under there to replace the bulb and found the housing to be corroded as hell. I managed to get the old bulb out and put a new one in, but no luck with it flashing. I then went ahead and checked the fuses anyway, but they are all ok.
So my question is, am I going to have to replace the housing? Where do I order it and how much does it cost? I wanted to eventually upgrade the front blinkers with switchback LEDs, so this is as good of a time as ever so do I just use stock housings for the blinkers or do I change both sides out and put in something new. I've read I need to install some module with LED blinkers, otherwise it won't blink correctly?
If you can help me out with this situation I would greatly appreciate it!
no real fix to it, you need to buy the housings, WS-6 store is a vendor on here and I belive he sells them at a great price, and there really simple to install just cut threw wires and hook 3 wires back up, there really is no fix to the corossion unless you want to try to soak them in CLR or something lol
housings are 50-70 apiece depending on where you order them, but sure just buy the switchback LEDs they fit in the stock housings
housings are 50-70 apiece depending on where you order them, but sure just buy the switchback LEDs they fit in the stock housings
and all you need to get LED blinkers to blink is buy a HEAVY duty flasher module that plugs in under the dash, I think you need two but I cant remember one for hazerds and one for blinkers. you can buy any HD flasher module at any parts store its basicly what the 18 wheelers use
If you decide to stay stock for a bit, I believe you can still buy the bulb sockets at local parts stores, like AutoZone-that's where I bought two of mine. It's just a matter of cutting and splicing from there. Remember to pack the bulb socket with dielectric grease before you put in a bulb...
You can buy replacement sockets at Autozone I believe I bought (2) for $15 total. They have 3 wires that you just solder into the existing harness after you cut the old socket off. Very easy to do. I used to have the part # on my phone but got rid of it. I'm sure if you search around tech you will find it.
Yep I'm 110% positive they are $7-8 a piece. Keep in mind the part # I had was for another application though. I wish I still had it because I couldn't believe it when I read it on here and then it turned out to be true lol.
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There is a much more elegant (and less effort/expense) way to fix the socket. Just get the new socket parts - No wiring necessary. In a good situation, you'll only need a $3 socket insert. In a worse situation, you'll need the $3 insert and a new $1.25 socket.
Here are some good links:
https://ls1tech.com/forums/general-m...rn-signal.html
https://ls1tech.com/forums/general-m...t-gaskets.html
Here are some good links:
https://ls1tech.com/forums/general-m...rn-signal.html
https://ls1tech.com/forums/general-m...t-gaskets.html
Hey everyone
Since I bought my car a month ago the blinkers havent worked correctly at all. When I flip the blinker either left or right, the blinker will just stay on (sometimes the left side will blink as it should, both front and rear, but thats just sometimes not all the time.) When I turn the hazards on, all lights flash besides the front right. So, I got under there to replace the bulb and found the housing to be corroded as hell. I managed to get the old bulb out and put a new one in, but no luck with it flashing. I then went ahead and checked the fuses anyway, but they are all ok.
So my question is, am I going to have to replace the housing? Where do I order it and how much does it cost? I wanted to eventually upgrade the front blinkers with switchback LEDs, so this is as good of a time as ever so do I just use stock housings for the blinkers or do I change both sides out and put in something new. I've read I need to install some module with LED blinkers, otherwise it won't blink correctly?
If you can help me out with this situation I would greatly appreciate it!
Since I bought my car a month ago the blinkers havent worked correctly at all. When I flip the blinker either left or right, the blinker will just stay on (sometimes the left side will blink as it should, both front and rear, but thats just sometimes not all the time.) When I turn the hazards on, all lights flash besides the front right. So, I got under there to replace the bulb and found the housing to be corroded as hell. I managed to get the old bulb out and put a new one in, but no luck with it flashing. I then went ahead and checked the fuses anyway, but they are all ok.
So my question is, am I going to have to replace the housing? Where do I order it and how much does it cost? I wanted to eventually upgrade the front blinkers with switchback LEDs, so this is as good of a time as ever so do I just use stock housings for the blinkers or do I change both sides out and put in something new. I've read I need to install some module with LED blinkers, otherwise it won't blink correctly?
If you can help me out with this situation I would greatly appreciate it!
Our sockets would last forever and never get burned up if GM had put the socket either on the back of the housing or on the top of the housing. Over time moisture gets inside the the housing and it settles in the bottom (gravity), right into the electrical socket....and thats what causes it to burn out over time. Also, the normal bulbs get HOT because they run all the time, the LED's never get hot so the plastic (stock) housings won't crack and deteriorate over time.
Found them, Amazon:
http://www.amazon.com/Pontiac-Trans-...ar=1&carId=002
They are MUCH nicer than factory, I think they're glass not plastic, and white so they match the headlights and fogs when they're all on. Not that ugly orange colored lenses. AND...SEALED so no moisture can get in. I also did the flashers with LED's.
I got new sockets with wires ready to splice in at Pepboys for $15.00 for both.
Video:
http://s300.photobucket.com/albums/n...lashersvid.mp4
.
Last edited by LS6427; Sep 11, 2011 at 12:15 PM.
I know some people hate when I say this, but its true.....the blinker housings are yet another shitty design by the GM engineers.........
Our sockets would last forever and never get burned up if GM had put the socket either on the back of the housing or on the top of the housing. Over time moisture gets inside the the housing and it settles in the bottom (gravity), right into the electrical socket....and thats what causes it to burn out over time. Also, the normal bulbs get HOT because they run all the time, the LED's never get hot so the plastic (stock) housings won't crack and deteriorate over time.
Our sockets would last forever and never get burned up if GM had put the socket either on the back of the housing or on the top of the housing. Over time moisture gets inside the the housing and it settles in the bottom (gravity), right into the electrical socket....and thats what causes it to burn out over time. Also, the normal bulbs get HOT because they run all the time, the LED's never get hot so the plastic (stock) housings won't crack and deteriorate over time.
So, we can get the high temp sockets, made of a better plastic. The catch is they are not very available and must be bought in bulk. All we need is 300 people lined up to replace both sockets and we can place an order!
You gotta lay off the engineers. They got this one right. The Delphi engineers designed two identical versions of the socket. (See the footnote on page 6.2 http://delphi.com/pdf/contact/brochu...balCatalog.pdf) They have sockets made for low temp sockets made for high temp. (Specifically for DRL lights.) The bean counters chose to install the low temp version in our cars, I assume because they are less expensive - so they fry.
So, we can get the high temp sockets, made of a better plastic. The catch is they are not very available and must be bought in bulk. All we need is 300 people lined up to replace both sockets and we can place an order!
So, we can get the high temp sockets, made of a better plastic. The catch is they are not very available and must be bought in bulk. All we need is 300 people lined up to replace both sockets and we can place an order!
There are old Pontiacs with the sockets on the top of the DRL/Blinker housings....I think the Grand Prix or maybe the Grand Am....not sure. They should have just put the socket on top, then all the moisture in the world wouldn't affect them. The moisture settles into the socket........thats why they fry....
Or just spend $50.00 and get the housings I have. Then the LED's and Flashers......no moisture can get in and no heat from the regular bulbs. And a much cooler looking set up.........
.
Last edited by LS6427; Sep 11, 2011 at 11:57 PM.
My sockets are bone dry and they still get crispy. Water will definitely make the problem worse.
I have a supplier that might be able to get the high temp sockets in lower quantities. If people can reply to this thread, I'll look in to it if there is a good response:
https://ls1tech.com/forums/stereo-el...al-socket.html
I have a supplier that might be able to get the high temp sockets in lower quantities. If people can reply to this thread, I'll look in to it if there is a good response:
https://ls1tech.com/forums/stereo-el...al-socket.html
Thread Starter
TECH Resident
Joined: Aug 2011
Posts: 828
Likes: 11
From: 4o5
I know some people hate when I say this, but its true.....the blinker housings are yet another shitty design by the GM engineers.........
Our sockets would last forever and never get burned up if GM had put the socket either on the back of the housing or on the top of the housing. Over time moisture gets inside the the housing and it settles in the bottom (gravity), right into the electrical socket....and thats what causes it to burn out over time. Also, the normal bulbs get HOT because they run all the time, the LED's never get hot so the plastic (stock) housings won't crack and deteriorate over time.
Found them, Amazon:
http://www.amazon.com/Pontiac-Trans-...ar=1&carId=002
They are MUCH nicer than factory, I think they're glass not plastic, and white so they match the headlights and fogs when they're all on. Not that ugly orange colored lenses. AND...SEALED so no moisture can get in. I also did the flashers with LED's.
I got new sockets with wires ready to splice in at Pepboys for $15.00 for both.
Video:
http://s300.photobucket.com/albums/n...lashersvid.mp4
.
Our sockets would last forever and never get burned up if GM had put the socket either on the back of the housing or on the top of the housing. Over time moisture gets inside the the housing and it settles in the bottom (gravity), right into the electrical socket....and thats what causes it to burn out over time. Also, the normal bulbs get HOT because they run all the time, the LED's never get hot so the plastic (stock) housings won't crack and deteriorate over time.
Found them, Amazon:
http://www.amazon.com/Pontiac-Trans-...ar=1&carId=002
They are MUCH nicer than factory, I think they're glass not plastic, and white so they match the headlights and fogs when they're all on. Not that ugly orange colored lenses. AND...SEALED so no moisture can get in. I also did the flashers with LED's.
I got new sockets with wires ready to splice in at Pepboys for $15.00 for both.
Video:
http://s300.photobucket.com/albums/n...lashersvid.mp4
.
Order:
EC12 flashers $11.00 each (auto parts store)
48 SMT Tower LED's (white-amber AW) 3157 $27.99 http://autolumination.com/3157_3156.htm
10-15 minutes to install it all and you're done.
.
Last edited by LS6427; Sep 13, 2011 at 11:58 AM.
If you all have other pictures of these lenses, I'd be interested to see them. (Front, back, sides.)
Another thing to keep in mind is that the stock parts are designed for very harsh use. Going from the top of a frozen mountain to a burning desert all in the same day, etc. Sealing the lenses completely can be a bad thing, unless they have a pressure relief. If you go to the top of a mountain a couple of thousand feet high, drink a bottle of water, put the cap back on, and drive back down, you'll see the effect. A sealed lens can also cause condensation if the air inside can't move in/out.
Another thing to keep in mind is that the stock parts are designed for very harsh use. Going from the top of a frozen mountain to a burning desert all in the same day, etc. Sealing the lenses completely can be a bad thing, unless they have a pressure relief. If you go to the top of a mountain a couple of thousand feet high, drink a bottle of water, put the cap back on, and drive back down, you'll see the effect. A sealed lens can also cause condensation if the air inside can't move in/out.
Registered User
Joined: Feb 2012
Posts: 11
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From: florida
just bought some 3157 led for my 98 trans am blinkers were working fine since i put the led in the blinkers they wont blink what you think the problem is and also bought the led the guy told me i had to buy a module or something so they wont blink fast i was reading to fix the problem you can buy a heavy duty flasher module where do you get this and part number to thank you
Thread Starter
TECH Resident
Joined: Aug 2011
Posts: 828
Likes: 11
From: 4o5
That guys info is correct. Once replacing the stock 3157 blinker bulb with an LED setup, you can no longer use the stock thermal flashers. Autozone carries these "heavy-duty electronic" flashers for about $15 a piece. Remember, you need 2 of these flashers when upgrading to LEDs, one for your blinkers and one for you hazards.