Taillight/brakelight socket - Help a guy from europe.
Thread Starter
Staging Lane
Joined: May 2011
Posts: 52
Likes: 0
From: The Netherlands, Almere
Taillight/brakelight socket - Help a guy from europe. Hi guys.
First off, excuse my English I'm from the Netherlands.
I have this issue with my taillight/brake light on my '99 Z28. Not sure yet if I need to replace the rear wiring harness or just two sockets. Because I find it hard to pinpoint where the problem lies I'm going to just replace the cheapest parts first. I tried to take them apart but I failed miserably
I think the sockets on a euro edition Z28 differ from a domestic one. My car has the bayonet socket (that is what they call it here) you guys probably have a wedge style socket.
The few available parts shops in my country (the Netherlands) charges me close to up €100 for two sockets, because they need to import it and can't get it much cheaper. That is $127. My question is how much do the parts below cost in the USA and could someone please help me out with getting the parts to me in the Netherlands. If you are willing to help me out please let me know. I am willing to pay you something for the hassle of getting and sending the parts. If you don't want to send overseas then I will provide an adress to one or two companies that ships to the Netherlands
The parts needed are.
2X (3-wired) sockets for the taillight/brake light (left and right side of the vehicle)
These are not wedge type but bayonet type connections, two pictures attached below.
The only part number i have is PED|F.L.2.9.|4 which i found on the back of the socket. And a search at rockauto led me to this and/or this which look like the same parts but are wedged and not bayonet.
You can contact me at facebook, email or reply on this thread.
http://s564.photobucket.com/user/San...e3dd.jpeg.html
http://s564.photobucket.com/user/San...484f.jpeg.html
First off, excuse my English I'm from the Netherlands.
I have this issue with my taillight/brake light on my '99 Z28. Not sure yet if I need to replace the rear wiring harness or just two sockets. Because I find it hard to pinpoint where the problem lies I'm going to just replace the cheapest parts first. I tried to take them apart but I failed miserably
I think the sockets on a euro edition Z28 differ from a domestic one. My car has the bayonet socket (that is what they call it here) you guys probably have a wedge style socket.
The few available parts shops in my country (the Netherlands) charges me close to up €100 for two sockets, because they need to import it and can't get it much cheaper. That is $127. My question is how much do the parts below cost in the USA and could someone please help me out with getting the parts to me in the Netherlands. If you are willing to help me out please let me know. I am willing to pay you something for the hassle of getting and sending the parts. If you don't want to send overseas then I will provide an adress to one or two companies that ships to the Netherlands
The parts needed are.
2X (3-wired) sockets for the taillight/brake light (left and right side of the vehicle)
These are not wedge type but bayonet type connections, two pictures attached below.
The only part number i have is PED|F.L.2.9.|4 which i found on the back of the socket. And a search at rockauto led me to this and/or this which look like the same parts but are wedged and not bayonet.
You can contact me at facebook, email or reply on this thread.
http://s564.photobucket.com/user/San...e3dd.jpeg.html
http://s564.photobucket.com/user/San...484f.jpeg.html
Looks (from what I can see) like your lights are the old style sockets where the bulbs have a round metal base instead of the wedge style, I imagine you could convert to the wedge style, you would just need to get 3157 bulbs instead of the 2157 bulbs that you use now or you could get the sockets for like a 93-94 they should match your style socket that uses the 2157 bulb.
Joined: Nov 2003
Posts: 11,331
Likes: 346
From: Jacksonville, FL (originally from Toronto Canada)
The bayonet style sockets you mention are easier to find by their bulb number. The dual filament brake/running light sockets take 1157 bulbs. The single filament amber turn signal sockets take 1156 bulbs.
Your best bet might be ebay. For example, a quick search of ebay turned up this listing: http://compare.ebay.com/like/110651284126?var=lv<yp=AllFixedPriceItemTypes&var=sbar. A search of Amazon found this: . If you check one of the Amazon sites in Europe (links listed at amazon.co.uk) or you find an ebay vendor willing to ship to Europe, you might be able to get your sockets pretty cheaply.
Your best bet might be ebay. For example, a quick search of ebay turned up this listing: http://compare.ebay.com/like/110651284126?var=lv<yp=AllFixedPriceItemTypes&var=sbar. A search of Amazon found this: . If you check one of the Amazon sites in Europe (links listed at amazon.co.uk) or you find an ebay vendor willing to ship to Europe, you might be able to get your sockets pretty cheaply.
The part itself should cost around $4 USD wholesale but its hard to find and companies that carry it will keep parking it up and up.
When you get your new sockets, you should be able to remove the terminal lock and the wires/terminals from the socket. If the wires and terminals are good on your old socket, you should be able to reverse the process and make a splice-free repair. (Since these parts are expensive, you may risk damaging them by experimenting with this process - so that may not be a good idea.)
If you do splice them, you'll want to be sure to use waterproof splices in this location. If you get the sockets from GM, they come with the splices, but some re-sellers do not provide them in the package.
Joined: Nov 2003
Posts: 11,331
Likes: 346
From: Jacksonville, FL (originally from Toronto Canada)
I was also going to suggest a wiring schematic and testing with a meter until I took another look at the last photo and realized he was going to need sockets anyway due to the serious corrosion.
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Yea. Makes you wonder. If these sockets are that corroded, the new ones probably won't last long.
Are the lenses leaking? Are the sockets on the other side of the car in the same state?
Are the lenses leaking? Are the sockets on the other side of the car in the same state?
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Staging Lane
Joined: May 2011
Posts: 52
Likes: 0
From: The Netherlands, Almere
When you get your new sockets, you should be able to remove the terminal lock and the wires/terminals from the socket. If the wires and terminals are good on your old socket, you should be able to reverse the process and make a splice-free repair. (Since these parts are expensive, you may risk damaging them by experimenting with this process - so that may not be a good idea.)
If you do splice them, you'll want to be sure to use waterproof splices in this location. If you get the sockets from GM, they come with the splices, but some re-sellers do not provide them in the package.
If you do splice them, you'll want to be sure to use waterproof splices in this location. If you get the sockets from GM, they come with the splices, but some re-sellers do not provide them in the package.
The new connectors will be testfitted first and then I'll make in inline splice like explained in this instructable.
Only the right hand unit is leaking, I tried to fix this a few months ago and also cleaned up the sockets but not very well it seems now. So I'll be checking for cracks, faulty seals and perhaps i can take the unit apart using the "whistler mod" method.
Does any of you know what a rear light wiring harness is going to cost, in case i can't pinpoint the source of this issue? All I can find are some second hand ones on eBay.
The new connectors will be testfitted first and then I'll make in inline splice like explained in this instructable.
No, you don't want to do that!
Butt connections on cars, boats, airplanes, etc. (and any other thing that vibrates) need to be done with mechanical splices. Solder joints are brittle and crack. Cracking + Vibration = Sparks and Fire.These are what you want to use. Heat shrink crimp but connectors:
http://solutions.3m.com/wps/portal/3...BC31gv%29&rt=d
After you perform the crimp, you can use a flame or heat gun to shrink the tubing and form a watertight seal.
You shouldn't need a new harness unless the corrosion spread to the wires. Its not a very complicated part. If you do need another one, you should be able to trust a used part in this case.
