Aftermarket Alarms - Are you happy with yours?
#1
Aftermarket Alarms - Are you happy with yours?
Hello All-
I am thinking of having an aftermarket alarm installed on my car for a variety of reasons. For one, the stock fob is finicky and requires quite a few presses of the buttons for the command to be registered. Also, I would love to be able to push a button and have my windows lowered or raised for easy t-top removal. Last, I would love a better alarm after hearing about the string of thefts in Cali lately.
I had a Viper 5701 on my old Saturn Vue, and while it erred once in a while, and had its issues, I was overall very happy with it. I would like to stick with DEI products, and likely just a Viper alarm (no remote start).
Anyway, how is everyone feeling about their aftermarket alarms? Do they play nice with our electrics? Any buyers remorse?
Thanks,
Jake
I am thinking of having an aftermarket alarm installed on my car for a variety of reasons. For one, the stock fob is finicky and requires quite a few presses of the buttons for the command to be registered. Also, I would love to be able to push a button and have my windows lowered or raised for easy t-top removal. Last, I would love a better alarm after hearing about the string of thefts in Cali lately.
I had a Viper 5701 on my old Saturn Vue, and while it erred once in a while, and had its issues, I was overall very happy with it. I would like to stick with DEI products, and likely just a Viper alarm (no remote start).
Anyway, how is everyone feeling about their aftermarket alarms? Do they play nice with our electrics? Any buyers remorse?
Thanks,
Jake
#6
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Qwik,
do you have EXTENSIVE experience with dealing with LATE model vehicle wiring? I ask because installing an alarm in a late model car isn't as simple as it seems, ESPECIALLY if the vehicle already has a built-in alarm. I used to work at Circuit City in their audio department, and when they did mine for my Camaro they said it was a PITA. They had to use a resistor to bypass the VATS, and they had to install a diode somewhere to do something (I forget why/what). It's stupid easy to **** up and fry your entire harness, so unless you know EXCTLY what you're doing, and/or your car is a stripper (which it isn't), I'd find a shop to do it. I'd hate to hear you accidently fired your electrical...
Does the quote the shop gave you include the hardware? If so, while a little high, that price isn't bad; the hardware isn't cheap, and the install takes time (they had mine for 2 days).
do you have EXTENSIVE experience with dealing with LATE model vehicle wiring? I ask because installing an alarm in a late model car isn't as simple as it seems, ESPECIALLY if the vehicle already has a built-in alarm. I used to work at Circuit City in their audio department, and when they did mine for my Camaro they said it was a PITA. They had to use a resistor to bypass the VATS, and they had to install a diode somewhere to do something (I forget why/what). It's stupid easy to **** up and fry your entire harness, so unless you know EXCTLY what you're doing, and/or your car is a stripper (which it isn't), I'd find a shop to do it. I'd hate to hear you accidently fired your electrical...
Does the quote the shop gave you include the hardware? If so, while a little high, that price isn't bad; the hardware isn't cheap, and the install takes time (they had mine for 2 days).
#7
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4th Generation F-bodies are just not that modern. Installing an alarm in one takes about the same level of skill as installing a complete aftermarket stereo system with external amp. The only thing that is somewhat unusual is the diode required for the power door locks but the instructions cover that quite thoroughly (at least the DEI product instructions do - that's Viper, Hornet, Python, Clifford, etc.). A VATS bypass is only necessary when installing a remote start not for just an alarm system. The factory alarm cannot be removed as it is part of the BCM but it can be disabled so as not to interfere with the aftermarket alarm.
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4th Generation F-bodies are just not that modern. Installing an alarm in one takes about the same level of skill as installing a complete aftermarket stereo system with external amp. The only thing that is somewhat unusual is the diode required for the power door locks but the instructions cover that quite thoroughly (at least the DEI product instructions do - that's Viper, Hornet, Python, Clifford, etc.). A VATS bypass is only necessary when installing a remote start not for just an alarm system. The factory alarm cannot be removed as it is part of the BCM but it can be disabled so as not to interfere with the aftermarket alarm.
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I just installed one on my 2000 TA... Not that bad really. There is a lot out there for wiring help, even for the door locks. Patience helps as it can be a lot of wiring and verifying.
I got one with the one mile range and it's pretty amazing how far it goes and still gives feedback to the fob. Added a tilt sensor and hood trigger.
I got one with the one mile range and it's pretty amazing how far it goes and still gives feedback to the fob. Added a tilt sensor and hood trigger.
Last edited by 666ws6; 03-07-2014 at 03:20 PM.
#10
Thanks for the tips guys. I've installed countless aftermarket stereos, so I know at least a sufficient amount of information on wiring. Also, my interior is mostly apart already so I guess now is the time to tackle the project. I'm going to give it a whirl with BFranker's install guide.
Much thanks.
Much thanks.
#11
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There are several things in Franker's install guide that are not necessarily wrong but are certainly not the best way to wire an aftermarket alarm. For one, do not tap into ignition or other power wires under the steering column. You should be able to make almost all of your connections at the BCM.
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... stock fob is finicky and requires quite a few presses of the buttons for the command to be registered.
coin battery. If this is the main gripe, try that first?