hard wiring afr gauge
06-22-2014, 09:07 PM
#1
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hard wiring afr gauge Ok so I want to finally hard wire my afr gauge. I've been plugging
it in and out of cig lighter every time I drive for a year now lol... I just upgraded to wiring a switch off cig lighter wire ha...
Problem is idk where to wire the power. It needs to be powered on run and start position only. NOT accessory position and cant remain on with key off door closed like radio, lights etc.
it in and out of cig lighter every time I drive for a year now lol... I just upgraded to wiring a switch off cig lighter wire ha...
Problem is idk where to wire the power. It needs to be powered on run and start position only. NOT accessory position and cant remain on with key off door closed like radio, lights etc.
Last edited by David_viny; 06-22-2014 at 09:36 PM.
06-23-2014, 07:53 AM
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Ok so I want to finally hard wire my afr gauge. I've been plugging
it in and out of cig lighter every time I drive for a year now lol... I just upgraded to wiring a switch off cig lighter wire ha...
Problem is idk where to wire the power. It needs to be powered on run and start position only. NOT accessory position and cant remain on with key off door closed like radio, lights etc.
it in and out of cig lighter every time I drive for a year now lol... I just upgraded to wiring a switch off cig lighter wire ha...
Problem is idk where to wire the power. It needs to be powered on run and start position only. NOT accessory position and cant remain on with key off door closed like radio, lights etc.
06-23-2014, 08:02 AM
#4
The lighter/power outlet is hot at all times.
It is not difficult to get power that is ignition only and not available in the accessory position (although that wouldn't hurt anything either). It is more difficult to access power that is available in both START and RUN but not other conditions. There are circuits like that in the fuse blocks under the hood but not inside the car. And the ones that are under the hood are crucial to the car (e.g. PCM power) so tapping into one of them would not be a good idea - at least not without using a relay to isolate the circuit. Another method that is not recommended is tapping into one of the heavy gauge wires near the ignition switch... that's just asking for problems down the road.
If you can live without the gauge during startup, you can get power from the IGN port in the dash fuse panel that is designed for adding aftermarket equipment (as mentioned above). Otherwise, tap into the PCM IGN fuse in junction block 2 under the hood, use that power to trigger a standard automotive relay that then powers your gauge.
It is not difficult to get power that is ignition only and not available in the accessory position (although that wouldn't hurt anything either). It is more difficult to access power that is available in both START and RUN but not other conditions. There are circuits like that in the fuse blocks under the hood but not inside the car. And the ones that are under the hood are crucial to the car (e.g. PCM power) so tapping into one of them would not be a good idea - at least not without using a relay to isolate the circuit. Another method that is not recommended is tapping into one of the heavy gauge wires near the ignition switch... that's just asking for problems down the road.
If you can live without the gauge during startup, you can get power from the IGN port in the dash fuse panel that is designed for adding aftermarket equipment (as mentioned above). Otherwise, tap into the PCM IGN fuse in junction block 2 under the hood, use that power to trigger a standard automotive relay that then powers your gauge.
06-23-2014, 07:09 PM
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Thanks for the response's. I think I will just go with the IGN port. The more I think of it, I'm pretty sure the AFR gauge when connected to constant cig lighter power resets when cranking anyway with the dropped voltage so I guess it isn't vital to have power while cranking.
06-24-2014, 12:26 AM
#6
I have my power wired into the 12v ignition extra slot in the fuse block on the left of the dash then I grounded it right on the pillar to give it its own ground. It is the spot labeled "IGN" in the diagram NOT the circled one. All you need to use is a spade end solderless connector and plug it in.
