Please critique my stereo plans
04-03-2015, 06:38 PM
#43
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I've heard of sundown but don't have any experience with them, but they are very well recommended by those that use them, you can find a good bit of videos on youtube on them. it really comes down to a "whats your budget" discussion for people to give recommendations, because with no listed budget anyone can suggest a 500 dollar sub or a 150 dollar sub and there are huge differences there.
also box design and sub sizes depend on the type of music you listen too, mostly metal with the quick fast bass drum type stuff does better with a smaller 8 or 10 inch sub with a sealed enclosure where flowing bassline common in rap or pink floyd do better in ported boxes, or at least thats my experience.
also box design and sub sizes depend on the type of music you listen too, mostly metal with the quick fast bass drum type stuff does better with a smaller 8 or 10 inch sub with a sealed enclosure where flowing bassline common in rap or pink floyd do better in ported boxes, or at least thats my experience.
04-03-2015, 10:00 PM
#45
Idk then buddy, i wouldn't lie to ya I'm trying to save ya unnecessary dollars.
If i knew what i know now 5 years ago i would never have paid the money to have the Rockford brand.
What r you stuck on? Hifonics can do the job i just worry about reliability. A few hundred watts here and there isn't too noticeable especially on woofers.
The enclosures and install are 80 % of it.
If i knew what i know now 5 years ago i would never have paid the money to have the Rockford brand.
What r you stuck on? Hifonics can do the job i just worry about reliability. A few hundred watts here and there isn't too noticeable especially on woofers.
The enclosures and install are 80 % of it.
04-03-2015, 10:02 PM
#46
Idk then buddy, i wouldn't lie to ya I'm trying to save ya unnecessary dollars.
If i knew what i know now 5 years ago i would never have paid the money to have the Rockford brand.
What r you stuck on? Hifonics can do the job i just worry about reliability. A few hundred watts here and there isn't too noticeable especially on woofers.
The enclosures and install are 80 % of it.
If i knew what i know now 5 years ago i would never have paid the money to have the Rockford brand.
What r you stuck on? Hifonics can do the job i just worry about reliability. A few hundred watts here and there isn't too noticeable especially on woofers.
The enclosures and install are 80 % of it.
04-03-2015, 10:05 PM
#47
Clipping from low voltage imo is when your playing it max volume you believe our is know to be safe or not clipping.
Then you come to stop or idle, hell actually if your system is too big for the alternator this could happen. Anyway the amplifiers will start to pull the battery voltage down to and below 12v. That's when your output will start to clip because it's gain is referenced at above 12v at least.
Then you come to stop or idle, hell actually if your system is too big for the alternator this could happen. Anyway the amplifiers will start to pull the battery voltage down to and below 12v. That's when your output will start to clip because it's gain is referenced at above 12v at least.
04-04-2015, 12:49 AM
#49
Components in the doors and sails. You may like the sound and that's all that matters in the end, but anyone in the back seat will hate you lol. If you ran the tweeters to the rear hatch, that may help. Though running the tweeters in the doors up higher so that your leg isn't blocking one would likely help to. Even running them to the dash facing the windshield would be best I think.
As to not buying things you haven't herd of before, I had never herd of CDT before I got my system from Kee Audio. Turns out their a pretty high quality brand. I'm not a audio fend so it may sound crazy that I never herd of them, but I hadn't.
As to not buying things you haven't herd of before, I had never herd of CDT before I got my system from Kee Audio. Turns out their a pretty high quality brand. I'm not a audio fend so it may sound crazy that I never herd of them, but I hadn't.
04-04-2015, 08:31 AM
#50
Clipping from low voltage imo is when your playing it max volume you believe our is know to be safe or not clipping.
Then you come to stop or idle, hell actually if your system is too big for the alternator this could happen. Anyway the amplifiers will start to pull the battery voltage down to and below 12v. That's when your output will start to clip because it's gain is referenced at above 12v at least.
Then you come to stop or idle, hell actually if your system is too big for the alternator this could happen. Anyway the amplifiers will start to pull the battery voltage down to and below 12v. That's when your output will start to clip because it's gain is referenced at above 12v at least.
04-13-2015, 10:48 AM
#51
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Buy a Zapco St-4X and a Zapco ST-1000XM.
Zapco have been making car amps since the late 70s, and they are absolutely rock solid reliable.
Together they will set you back about $400. The great thing about Zapco: if they say it will put out 80W rms per ch, they mean it will put out 80W per channel with ALL channels running at an extremely low distortion rating. Often time they cleanly put out more than they are rated for.
I have that setup (only I have the 1500W rather than the 1000W) and it kills. It gets as loud as you will ever want it to. (I prefer it wailing, for reference.)
Zapco have been making car amps since the late 70s, and they are absolutely rock solid reliable.
Together they will set you back about $400. The great thing about Zapco: if they say it will put out 80W rms per ch, they mean it will put out 80W per channel with ALL channels running at an extremely low distortion rating. Often time they cleanly put out more than they are rated for.
I have that setup (only I have the 1500W rather than the 1000W) and it kills. It gets as loud as you will ever want it to. (I prefer it wailing, for reference.)
04-19-2015, 05:03 AM
#52
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Buy a Zapco St-4X and a Zapco ST-1000XM.
Zapco have been making car amps since the late 70s, and they are absolutely rock solid reliable.
Together they will set you back about $400. The great thing about Zapco: if they say it will put out 80W rms per ch, they mean it will put out 80W per channel with ALL channels running at an extremely low distortion rating. Often time they cleanly put out more than they are rated for.
I have that setup (only I have the 1500W rather than the 1000W) and it kills. It gets as loud as you will ever want it to. (I prefer it wailing, for reference.)
Zapco have been making car amps since the late 70s, and they are absolutely rock solid reliable.
Together they will set you back about $400. The great thing about Zapco: if they say it will put out 80W rms per ch, they mean it will put out 80W per channel with ALL channels running at an extremely low distortion rating. Often time they cleanly put out more than they are rated for.
I have that setup (only I have the 1500W rather than the 1000W) and it kills. It gets as loud as you will ever want it to. (I prefer it wailing, for reference.)
There are lots of companies to get a amp from. Do you need a small size? Lots of power or a little? How clean is the sound? Actual output? Questions that you need to answer before you look.
Zapco makes great stuff. So does alpine, kicker, jbl, and a handful of other companies. please just don't get hifonics, there is a lot better out there.
04-20-2015, 12:57 PM
#53
Ok, so I guess a lot has changed since the last time I researched car stereos.
I guess all I am really dead set on is one set of 6.5/6.75 components in the front doors and one set in the back sails. 2 10" subs either in a Milhouse box (if I can find one), in a box that has room for the T-Tops, or in a box in place of the backseat.
I am going to have a 8pt roll bar, so there will be no back seat passenger, ever.
As for the speakers... I'm looking at the RMS power rating, frequency response, and sensitivity. What are other specs that I need to consider?
Amps, I am looking at RMS power rating at x ohms, THD at RMS power, SNR, frequency response, crossover frequencies, I'd prefer fan cooled,
I guess all I am really dead set on is one set of 6.5/6.75 components in the front doors and one set in the back sails. 2 10" subs either in a Milhouse box (if I can find one), in a box that has room for the T-Tops, or in a box in place of the backseat.
I am going to have a 8pt roll bar, so there will be no back seat passenger, ever.
As for the speakers... I'm looking at the RMS power rating, frequency response, and sensitivity. What are other specs that I need to consider?
Amps, I am looking at RMS power rating at x ohms, THD at RMS power, SNR, frequency response, crossover frequencies, I'd prefer fan cooled,
04-20-2015, 01:13 PM
#54
Buy a Zapco St-4X and a Zapco ST-1000XM.
Zapco have been making car amps since the late 70s, and they are absolutely rock solid reliable.
Together they will set you back about $400. The great thing about Zapco: if they say it will put out 80W rms per ch, they mean it will put out 80W per channel with ALL channels running at an extremely low distortion rating. Often time they cleanly put out more than they are rated for.
I have that setup (only I have the 1500W rather than the 1000W) and it kills. It gets as loud as you will ever want it to. (I prefer it wailing, for reference.)
Zapco have been making car amps since the late 70s, and they are absolutely rock solid reliable.
Together they will set you back about $400. The great thing about Zapco: if they say it will put out 80W rms per ch, they mean it will put out 80W per channel with ALL channels running at an extremely low distortion rating. Often time they cleanly put out more than they are rated for.
I have that setup (only I have the 1500W rather than the 1000W) and it kills. It gets as loud as you will ever want it to. (I prefer it wailing, for reference.)
04-21-2015, 09:42 PM
#55
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How much do you wanna spend on the 2 component sets 2 subs and 2 amps? Also don't forget you need wires rcas and a head unit too.
Also subthump is who you wanna talk to about the t top box
Also subthump is who you wanna talk to about the t top box