Please critique my stereo plans
#1
Please critique my stereo plans
Head unit -
- Kenwood 998
- I like front/back USB and I had a 997 in my TBSS and really liked it.
Front/rear speakers and amp
- Infinity Kappa 60.11CS 6-3/4" component front doors
- Infinity Kappa 60.11CS 6-3/4" component rear sails (I know most people disagree, but I had components there in my 2000 TA, and I liked the sound)
- HiFonics BEX850.4 Brutus Elite (100Wx4 RMS @ 4 Ohms)
Subs and amp
- 2x Pioneer TS-W254R 10-Inch
- HiFonics ZEX1250.2 Zeus Elite (300x2 RMS @ 4Ohms)
Alternator
- 220-270A
Cable
- 1/0 gauge fused from the battery to cap
- 1/0 gauge from the cap to ground
- 4 gauge from the cap to each amp
- 6 channel RCA
- Kenwood 998
- I like front/back USB and I had a 997 in my TBSS and really liked it.
Front/rear speakers and amp
- Infinity Kappa 60.11CS 6-3/4" component front doors
- Infinity Kappa 60.11CS 6-3/4" component rear sails (I know most people disagree, but I had components there in my 2000 TA, and I liked the sound)
- HiFonics BEX850.4 Brutus Elite (100Wx4 RMS @ 4 Ohms)
Subs and amp
- 2x Pioneer TS-W254R 10-Inch
- HiFonics ZEX1250.2 Zeus Elite (300x2 RMS @ 4Ohms)
Alternator
- 220-270A
Cable
- 1/0 gauge fused from the battery to cap
- 1/0 gauge from the cap to ground
- 4 gauge from the cap to each amp
- 6 channel RCA
Last edited by FCar2000TA; 04-03-2015 at 11:26 AM.
#2
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don't waste money on a CAP, they are a bandaid at best and a drain on your electrical system at worst. Been there and done that years ago, saw more headlight dimming with one then without one.
#4
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http://fatfist.hubpages.com/hub/Car-...They-DONT-Work
it's pretty well documented, caps are the "snake oil" of car audio, you would be better off with a second battery then a cap, take a look at all the BIG built for competition ONLY (not a daily driver) you won't see one cap in there, but you will see a bunch of batteries.
it's pretty well documented, caps are the "snake oil" of car audio, you would be better off with a second battery then a cap, take a look at all the BIG built for competition ONLY (not a daily driver) you won't see one cap in there, but you will see a bunch of batteries.
#5
http://fatfist.hubpages.com/hub/Car-...They-DONT-Work
it's pretty well documented, caps are the "snake oil" of car audio, you would be better off with a second battery then a cap, take a look at all the BIG built for competition ONLY (not a daily driver) you won't see one cap in there, but you will see a bunch of batteries.
it's pretty well documented, caps are the "snake oil" of car audio, you would be better off with a second battery then a cap, take a look at all the BIG built for competition ONLY (not a daily driver) you won't see one cap in there, but you will see a bunch of batteries.
#6
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and swap it straight in then do the "big 3" upgrade with 1/0 cable.
the AD244 is a slightly larger (in size) alternator which provides for better cooling and better output and allows for even higher outputs on the HIGH output builds.
Last edited by Daniel Richards; 04-02-2015 at 06:15 PM.
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#8
Yup, infact with the LS1 motor you can get a pre-2005 145 amp AD244 off of a 5.3 v8 pickup truck https://ls1tech.com/forums/generatio...failure-s.html
and swap it straight in then do the "big 3" upgrade with 1/0 cable.
and swap it straight in then do the "big 3" upgrade with 1/0 cable.
#9
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But you also have to watch out, a lot of the cheaper HIGH output only do HALF there rated output at idle which is only like 10 more amps then the stock alt does at idle, watch out for those ebay HIGH output ones.
#10
My 2000 TA had (these were from about 2004)
2 sets of Alpine Type R 3.75" components
2 Alpine Type R 10's in a Millhouse box
Rockford Fosgate Punch 100x4 RMS amp
Rockford Fosgate Punch 300x2 RMS amp
Slipknot, Pantera, Five Finger Death Punch loud enough that I can turn it up when someone besides me rolls up blasting Taylor Swift. I want high quality sound when it is loud enough that the mirrors are useless.
#11
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clarion cz702 or pioneer deh 80prs headunit
hertz hsk 165 front components ran active with an external processor (ms8, 360.3 etc.)
2 tantric md 12's
ampere audio 125.4
ampere audio 2000.1
sky high car audio or knuknoceptz wiring
and properly deaden the car,
itll be an amazing sounding daily set up that could get loud when you want it to
hertz hsk 165 front components ran active with an external processor (ms8, 360.3 etc.)
2 tantric md 12's
ampere audio 125.4
ampere audio 2000.1
sky high car audio or knuknoceptz wiring
and properly deaden the car,
itll be an amazing sounding daily set up that could get loud when you want it to
#12
clarion cz702 or pioneer deh 80prs headunit
hertz hsk 165 front components ran active with an external processor (ms8, 360.3 etc.)
2 tantric md 12's
ampere audio 125.4
ampere audio 2000.1
sky high car audio or knuknoceptz wiring
and properly deaden the car,
itll be an amazing sounding daily set up that could get loud when you want it to
hertz hsk 165 front components ran active with an external processor (ms8, 360.3 etc.)
2 tantric md 12's
ampere audio 125.4
ampere audio 2000.1
sky high car audio or knuknoceptz wiring
and properly deaden the car,
itll be an amazing sounding daily set up that could get loud when you want it to
#14
The enclosure your woofers are in has almost everything to do with how loud and responsive your sub stage is. If you want loud and quick response for the rock you like I'd suggest getting a enclosure design and building it yourself very solid.
Ram designs does good work, or you could try the smd forums enclosure section to get some free advice.
Get sound deadener if you can afford it now. If not get it later down the road, you'll see why you need it hahah!
My setup is
02 Silverado 5.3 extended cab
stock alternator
Big 3 plus extra leads here and there in 0 and 4 gauges, mostly what i had laying around.
Xs power d2700 jerry rigged into the silverado class 34 battery tray (don't ask) lol
Jvc kd950bt
Rf line driver
Rf p400.4
2 pioneer entry level 6 1/2s front doors
Rf t500.1 bdcp
2 sundown audio E12s @ 1 ohm in a 4 cubic foot net enclosure, slot ported @ 35 hz
It really really gets it on the sub stage, but the mids and highs can't keep up. Their what was in the doors with the truck so just haven't got to them yet. Component setups running actively are where is at man! Hertz is top notch stuff. Infinity and alpine are good mids and highs u can get local usually at best buy. Imma shut up now i could go on and on lol
Ram designs does good work, or you could try the smd forums enclosure section to get some free advice.
Get sound deadener if you can afford it now. If not get it later down the road, you'll see why you need it hahah!
My setup is
02 Silverado 5.3 extended cab
stock alternator
Big 3 plus extra leads here and there in 0 and 4 gauges, mostly what i had laying around.
Xs power d2700 jerry rigged into the silverado class 34 battery tray (don't ask) lol
Jvc kd950bt
Rf line driver
Rf p400.4
2 pioneer entry level 6 1/2s front doors
Rf t500.1 bdcp
2 sundown audio E12s @ 1 ohm in a 4 cubic foot net enclosure, slot ported @ 35 hz
It really really gets it on the sub stage, but the mids and highs can't keep up. Their what was in the doors with the truck so just haven't got to them yet. Component setups running actively are where is at man! Hertz is top notch stuff. Infinity and alpine are good mids and highs u can get local usually at best buy. Imma shut up now i could go on and on lol
#15
the AD244 is a better starting point for building a high output alt off of.
But you also have to watch out, a lot of the cheaper HIGH output only do HALF there rated output at idle which is only like 10 more amps then the stock alt does at idle, watch out for those ebay HIGH output ones.
But you also have to watch out, a lot of the cheaper HIGH output only do HALF there rated output at idle which is only like 10 more amps then the stock alt does at idle, watch out for those ebay HIGH output ones.
#18
You don't need a mechman for 600watts or even 1000 rms.
You need a quality agm battery.
No to the capacitor.
Brands don't matter a ton on entry level stuff it's mostly about the install and tuning, but Don't discount the small names they are better imo. Learn about clipping both from over driving and low voltage so you have a idea how speakers and amps get blown, and how to avoid that.
You need a quality agm battery.
No to the capacitor.
Brands don't matter a ton on entry level stuff it's mostly about the install and tuning, but Don't discount the small names they are better imo. Learn about clipping both from over driving and low voltage so you have a idea how speakers and amps get blown, and how to avoid that.
#20
Also you don't need a 2 channel for you subs, it would work fine but a mono amp is usually cheaper for the same power rating and would actually offer more wiring options into a lower ohm load usually 1 ohm.