DIY pass window fix
The new motors, when they were carried as Duralasts and then later, as Dormans, didn't have any distinguishing markings as to who the manufacturer was.
They must still be out there. It's just a matter of finding what the brand du jour is for these things.
Also very disappointing that Dorman is using the same p/n for both the new and legacy design.
Maybe you could try a smaller outfit and find some new old stock of the former Dorman offering: http://www.diypowerwindowrepair.com/...-Position.html
Maybe you could try a smaller outfit and find some new old stock of the former Dorman offering: http://www.diypowerwindowrepair.com/...-Position.html
Do you have a good contact at your local AZ who can call a corporate buyer and find out what happened. They first had the design as a Duralast and then switched over to the Dorman name. They must have someone at AZ corporate who knows who the private label manufacturer is for the motor.
The promo material that shipped with the motor when it was under the Duralast brand cited 100% new content of the part and that it was better sealed against dust and contaminants vs. the original design.
This is internet mythology. The story/myth goes that there is a voltage drop in the wiring to the motor. The flaw in that is that the motors from the factory worked fine and the problem pops up on both sides of the car. (The voltage measured at the two motors is also over 12V, so there's no technical issue there.)
The bypass will apply a slightly higher voltage to the motor, which makes a bad motor look better. You can also just fix the problem - which is really the crappy motor.
If you lookup the stock motor in a parts cross-reference, you'll find that it was installed on cars in the '60s. IMO - it really had no business in being on these 1990's cars in the first place.
The bypass will apply a slightly higher voltage to the motor, which makes a bad motor look better. You can also just fix the problem - which is really the crappy motor.
If you lookup the stock motor in a parts cross-reference, you'll find that it was installed on cars in the '60s. IMO - it really had no business in being on these 1990's cars in the first place.
I don't disagree these old motor designs are likely pretty sad and shouldn't have been used.
LS1 Tech Stories
The Best V8 Stories One Small Block at Time
6 Gifts Neither Your Dad Nor Grad Will Shove Into the 'Trinket Drawer'
Brett Foote
Topdon ONE vs. Artidiag 800 BT2: Which is the Diagnostic Tablet For You?
Pouria Savadkouei
Gas Monkey Built a 6-Wheel Ferrari Testarossa With a Corvette LT4 Engine
Verdad Gallardo
7 Most Reliable High-Performance Engines GM Has Ever Built
Verdad Gallardo
Amazing '71 Camaro Restomod Is Modern Muscle Car Under the Skin
Verdad Gallardo
6 Common C5 Corvette Failures and What's Involved In Repairing Them
Pouria Savadkouei
Retro Modern Bandit Pontiac Trans AM Comes With Burt Reynolds' Autograph
Verdad Gallardo
Top 10 Greatest Cadillac V Series Performance Models Ever, Ranked
Pouria Savadkouei
Top 10 Most Powerful Chevy Trucks Ever Made!
The bottom line is that the cars were fine from the factory. The interior wiring doesn't suffer with age, but the motors do.
That's the bypass of the thermal cut-off. That device keeps the motor from over-stressing the door panel, so its a really important thing and protects from big repair$$$.
Yeah I've gone through two new motors from the Chevy dealer in the past 2 years. I haven't installed a new one because I want to find a final good fix. Maybe regulator? maybe need a better motor?
This new motor, which we can no longer locate... was the solution.
The regulator is fine and pretty basic/durable.
A company called ElectricLife makes an aftermarket custom regulator/motor combo. I tired that a few years back and it was a COLOSSAL failure - worse than stock. The motors were wimpy, burned all the way out, and could not be replaced. The regulator also bolted in, and we all know how regulator bolts work out on these doors... (Fortunately, I dropped some coin on Nord-Lock washers for those bolts, which kept everything tight and saved my door panel.)
The regulator is fine and pretty basic/durable.
A company called ElectricLife makes an aftermarket custom regulator/motor combo. I tired that a few years back and it was a COLOSSAL failure - worse than stock. The motors were wimpy, burned all the way out, and could not be replaced. The regulator also bolted in, and we all know how regulator bolts work out on these doors... (Fortunately, I dropped some coin on Nord-Lock washers for those bolts, which kept everything tight and saved my door panel.)
dang that sucks. yeah I think my regulator is fine, ive been driving around with the motor removed and just manually slide the window up and down with my hand ghetto style..
proper.
proper.
I took my burnt out one apart over the weekend, my motor was about a year old and looks brand new inside. The problem with these is the brushes wear out fast, so I rotated the brushes and expanded the springs so they contact better. We will see how long it lasts like that before they wear out and lose contact again.. I'll update when it re-burns out haha. Next try will be to upgrade the brushes.
I took my burnt out one apart over the weekend, my motor was about a year old and looks brand new inside. The problem with these is the brushes wear out fast, so I rotated the brushes and expanded the springs so they contact better. We will see how long it lasts like that before they wear out and lose contact again.. I'll update when it re-burns out haha. Next try will be to upgrade the brushes.
Another common problem is the the thermal resistor. (A lot of remans seem to come with the original, which also leads to heartache.)
Yes it works with the brushes contacting now, just havent installed it yet. Waiting to have some time aside so i can pull my door lock cylinders out at the same time and respray them silver.. The worn out black is bothering me.