LED flasher for LED front & rear
The driver's side doesn't seem to be making a connection for the DRL/turn signal circuit. That could be the bulb's wire contact is bent out of position, the bulb is reversed, the socket is corroded, or something is wrong with the blue wire into the socket.
The driver's side doesn't seem to be making a connection for the DRL/turn signal circuit. That could be the bulb's wire contact is bent out of position, the bulb is reversed, the socket is corroded, or something is wrong with the blue wire into the socket.
Headlights off: front lamps off until ignition is on and parking brake released when they will go on solid amber. They should flash amber/off with the turn signals or hazard flashers and then return to solid amber.
Headlights on: front lamps will be on solid white. They should flash either amber/off or amber/white (depending on whether they are type 1 or type 2 switchbacks) with the turn signals and hazard flashers and then return to solid white.
If they turn on amber with the headlights then they aren't switchbacks or your wiring is seriously messed up. If they don't respond properly in other ways then you probably have one of the problems mentioned earlier - socket, wiring, bulb contacts or the bulb itself.
Amazon.com: Keep It Clean FF552NLF No Load Fixed Flasher: Automotive
This is exactly how it sounds like. I have the same sound coming from the LED flasher in my Grand Prix that has LED's on all the exterior lighting.
These were taken during the day with my phone.


I don't have any night photos of the front turn signals. But these are amber XP80's


Backup light which is an XP80

I had a lot of light in the background with the sensor light on the garage but the XP80's in the tail lights are very bright.
Tail lights only

Brakes applied

Quick video comparing LED's and halogen in the rear turn signals.
Left LED vs Right XP80 LED
https://vimeo.com/174143867
I will have to get some better photos at night.
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Hopefully someone else can answer that. I never used the EL12. But if you are going to be running LED's all around then the FF552NLF is what you want.
So your cruise now works as well? Even with the lights on? Just ordered the flashers you suggested for my T/A. Camaro looks great btw!
So your cruise now works as well? Even with the lights on? Just ordered the flashers you suggested for my T/A. Camaro looks great btw!
These were taken during the day with my phone.
Attachment 594934
Attachment 594935
I don't have any night photos of the front turn signals. But these are amber XP80's
Attachment 594936
Attachment 594937
Backup light which is an XP80
Attachment 594938
I had a lot of light in the background with the sensor light on the garage but the XP80's in the tail lights are very bright.
Tail lights only
Attachment 594939
Brakes applied
Attachment 594940
Quick video comparing LED's and halogen in the rear turn signals.
Left LED vs Right XP80 LED
https://vimeo.com/174143867
I will have to get some better photos at night.
Try reversing the bulbs in the sockets but I doubt that will fix them because if they were backward, the parking lights wouldn't work either. I've been assuming that you have an f-body or at least a GM product. You don't have a Toyota, do you? They take a different type of 3157 bulb with a CK base. The four contacts of a CK bulb are arranged differently making them incompatible. Conversely, if you do have an f-body, could you have bought CK type bulbs by mistake?
The first thing to do is put the original incandescent bulbs back and see if they work. If not, check your STOP/HAZARD fuse (#1 - 20A). A blown fuse would certainly explain the symptoms but why it blew would be the important question. Again, putting a CK bulb in a standard socket would blow the fuse.
If the original bulbs still work then the fuse is okay and the problem is with the LED bulbs. Check that the four wire contacts on the bulb base are straight and aligned with the contacts inside the socket when you install the bulbs. If all else fails, try installing one in the front and see if your turn signals and DRLs work. That would be certain proof if the bulbs are faulty. Perhaps they are 3156 bulbs that are mispackaged as 3157 (3156 only has one brightness while 3157 has bright and dim - otherwise they look identical).







