Ws6AFBaker

Does anyone know where I can find a FF552NLF flasher? Doesn’t seem like it’s in production anymore. If not that then a reputable LED flasher for a 00 Firebird. Also can anyone confirm that the switchbacks will be White with fogs on an parking lights on? Or will it be amber like the DRL?

WhiteBird00

iTrader: (4)

If you are only replacing the front lamps with LED bulbs then any of the electronic flashers will do the job. If you are replacing all exterior bulbs on your car with LEDs then you'll need a true no-load flasher. They are usually labeled "LED Flasher". Sorry, I don't have any information on particular brands.

On my 2000 T/A, the front lamps only switched to dim (parking) mode when the headlights were on. They stayed bright (DRL mode) when only the parking lights were on. Switchback bulbs produce white for the dim mode and amber for the bright mode so if yours is like mine, the switchbacks would be amber with the lights off or in parking mode and white only when the headlights are on. It's easy enough to check... watch the front lamps when you have someone move the headlight switch from off to P - if the DRLs dim then your switchbacks will switch to white but if they stay bright then your switchbacks will stay amber.

frerkingdylan

This is what you're looking for. Amazing company and fast shipping. Bought this for my 2000 SS because I put in l.e.d. turn signals. The hazard flasher was the same as the turn signal flasher so ignition two right away.

The Guz

iTrader: (8)

Found it on their actual site.

https://www.keepitcleanwiring.com/ca...-Fixed-Flasher

I can't help you on the switchbacks as i don't have them.

Ws6AFBaker

yup actually ended up finding them shortly after I made the post lol. Was a late night of forum reading and my head was about cooked. Ended up ordered two of them.

M4N14C

iTrader: (3)

Just did the conversion and I don't know why I didn't do it sooner!

VIP1

M4N14C, which bulbs and flasher did you use?
Also, it looks like you used a "F1" style pulser for the 3rd Brake Light.

M4N14C

iTrader: (3)

2 X Keep It Clean No Load Fixed Pulse Flasher PN KICFF552NLF (One for turn signals and one for hazards)
4 X Pilot Automotive 3157 Red LED Light Bulbs (2 inner tail light bulbs)
2 X Auxito 194 LED Bulbs (Outer tail light bulbs)
4 X Auxito 194 Amber LED Bulbs (Side Markers)
2 X 3157 Amber LED Bulbs (Front turn signals)

I've had the 3rd brake light for a while now, I forget where it got it but lots of places carry them now. I did have to add some resistors to the 3rd brake light circuit to retain my cruise control.

ramairjohn2000

iTrader: (3)

Hate to ask but how does the install go for all of those? Looking at screaming chicken or late model lighting for other options and cost. Any feedback? Awesome car btw and love the roof rack!

ARSENAL670

Are you using white or red LED's for your tail lights/stop lights? I bought a set of LED's for my WS6 in red, but they seem a bit dim, even though they are good quality (projector glass, multiple LED's, etc).

WhiteBird00

iTrader: (4)

Always use LEDs that match the color of the lens except with clear or white lenses - use red LEDs in a red tail light and amber LEDs in an amber turn signal. In other words, use the color you want to display regardless of the lens color (e.g. red LEDs for brake lights regardless of whether it's a red or clear lens). If you use white LEDs behind a red lens, you end up with pink tail lights.

Things like projector glass and multiple LEDs are not a good indication of the brightness of the bulbs. There are multiple types and generations of LED chips that make a huge difference in brightness. Believe it or not, even the lumens rating of the bulbs doesn't always indicate the brightest bulb... partly because many vendors simply add up the theoretical maximum output of the chips (similar to peak power vs RMS for amps) but also because the configuration of the lamp you install in has a huge effect on the apparent brightness. I have found some relatively inexpensive LED bulbs that perform better than expensive ones in certain lamps but generally the better bulbs cost more. I generally try a few different designs (cylindrical, tower, 2-sided, and the unique Philips design) to find the one that looks best in any given lamp. I have had good luck on several vehicles with the iBrightstar 9-30V LED bulbs from Amazon.

The Guz

iTrader: (8)

Red behind the red, yellow behind the yellow and white behind the clear. Diode Dynamics XP80's are great and are bright.

ARSENAL670

I figured that, but when I pulled the tail light bulbs out from the WS6, they were all clear. Which is why I asked.

ARSENAL670

Do you have video of them flashing? Just curious. For $90/set, i'll be spending $270 if I do the XP 80s for the front and rear. WS6's need 4 3157 style bulbs for the rear.

WhiteBird00

iTrader: (4)

That's correct. The incandescent bulbs that are factory installed have always been clear except for amber turn signal bulbs. That's because changing color means tinting the glass of the bulb rather than changing the color of the light source (filament) itself. Tinting the glass reduces output so it's a trade off between brightness and color. With LEDs, the light source itself (the LED chip) produces the color so matching them to the lens gives the most effective look.

WhiteBird00

iTrader: (4)

This is one of those cases where the lamp design has a huge impact on apparent brightness. The tail lights have bulbs which go straight in from the back so they depend mostly on filling the reflector with light. This is where high end bulbs like the Diode Dynamics can really shine (pun intended). The front lamps have the bulbs go in from the bottom so you're looking at the side of the bulb rather than the end. You can use less expensive bulbs in this situation and still get impressive results. Bear in mind that the front bulb's bottom mounting limits the height of the bulb which will fit without running into the top of the housing so most of those tall tower style bulbs won't work.

ARSENAL670

Never realized the science behind it, but I appreciate the info!

Good to know. I ran into this with the side markers. I swapped out the stock colored marker lens's with smoked ones, and 194 LED's from V-LED's. Went with the brightest possible, which meant the tallest. No issues up front, but in the rear - guess what - too tall. So now, I ordered a set for the rear from superbrightled's which appear to be shorter.

I appreciate all of the info, you know your stuff!

The Guz

iTrader: (8)

Wait for their 20% off sales. They should be having one for 4th of July, Labor Day and Black Friday.

ARSENAL670

Thanks for the tip! I like the "defined" flash - that is the look i'm going for. Some LED's act more like the regular bulbs when they flash.

HardBlu

Instead of going the flasher and external resistor route, I went with Lasfit LEDs. The headlights and fog LEDs are absolutely brite white. Whiter than DD. The turn signals come with an integrated resistor for front and back and the reverse does as well. They also have the proper size and type interior LEDs. Check them out, they are less and last as longer or longer than DD. Used then in my 19 Traverse so they do work with resistors. I use DD throughout my 09 Colorado and ended up exchanging the dome and replacing high beams and fogs. Much happier. Left the tails intact and still using the external resistors.

Lasfit, remove and replace w/o external resistors and flashers. Head light LEDs range from $59.00 to $69.00 for both low and high beams, switchbacks or turn signals around $20 and dome and license LEDs are from $6.00 to 12.00.