is security lighy on 94 camaro supposed to stay on when the correct key is in or does it flash and or how do you reset it

 

Now I believe when starting the car, the security light is supposed to come on for three seconds and then go off. If it is staying on or flashing, then you have a problem.

If your car is not starting due to the VATS, you can simply bypass it with a resister wired in line with the BCM.

 

F-bodies didn't have a BCM until 1996 but the principle is the same. The theft deterrent module on a 93-95 is mounted behind the right kick panel rather than above the glove box like a later model BCM.

If the SECURITY light is on steady and the car still starts then the system has detected a fault while running where it could see a resistance but it doesn't match the original key. The car should continue to start until you disconnect and reconnect the battery at which point it will no longer assume it's a system fault and it will prevent you from starting the car. If the light is flashing then it can't see any resistance as though a key without a resistor pellet was being used. In this case, the car won't start.

In many cases, a system fault is caused merely by bad contact due to grime on the key and/or in the ignition cylinder. Use a pencil eraser followed by rubbing alcohol to clean the key contacts then clean the ignition cylinder with spray electronics cleaner and a pipe cleaner.

On an older model like this, it could also be caused by worn contacts on the key. Try a different key if you have a spare.

Bypassing is basically the same process of installing resistors across the white/black and purple/white VATS wires at the base of the steering column. Search on this forum for "vats bypass" to find lots of information on how to do it.

 

My Security Light has been On for about 5 years now and I've had the the battery changed 2 times and it is still on and starts every time. Dealer suggested to replace the ignition but was not sure it would fix the light. Did not trust them so I did not have it done. Had a new key made by locksmith that checked the resistor. No change. Don't want to bypass.

 

Sometimes it's better to be lucky than good. You really should fix that security light because one day it's going to leave you stranded. There are a number of simple things you can do without spending much money such as cleaning the contacts in the ignition cylinder as detailed above. The dealer was wrong - the only way the ignition cylinder would cause the problem that cleaning wouldn't fix is if the internal contacts were broken but then the security light would be flashing rather than on solid.

 

OK White Bird how exactly do I clean the ignition cylinder and what else can I try? I have 2 original keys and had one made none have turned off the light. After thought could it be related to the BCM?

 

You can get electronics (contact) spray cleaner from Radio Shack if you still have one around or online... Amazon has it for about $8. Spray generously into the ignition cylinder through the key slot and then wipe it out using a pipe cleaner (available at hobby shops). That will often take care of the problem of grime in the cylinder causing an inaccurate resistance reading.

It is possible that the BCM might be the culprit but it's best to go with the cheap fix first before spending money on a BCM. Since your security light isn't flashing, you know that the wiring is intact and that the BCM is reading some resistance, just not the right resistance. If cleaning doesn't resolve the issue, you can bypass VATS with resistors, eliminate VATS by programming the PCM to ignore the missing fuel enable signal and wiring a separate ground for the starter relay coil, or buy a new BCM.

 

passkey module on 93-5 is above the radio deep into the dash and hard to get to from what I remember
can use a bypass resistor to replace key and cylinder but needs to be same value as key.

 

Ive had this issue too for quite some time.
Do you have to take out the key cylinder when you clean it, or do you leave everything intact and just give it time to dry up before use?

 

There is no need to remove the ignition cylinder for cleaning. The electronics cleaner comes in a spray can with a straw so you can saturate the cylinder through the key hole and then wipe thoroughly with the pipe cleaner. Allow a few minutes for it to dry but it leaves no residue and there's nothing to short out in the immediate area so it's not necessary to wait very long.

 

Ok sounds good, thanks!

 

No Luck with cleaning ignition to turn off Security Light. It was hardly dirty. Radio and windows still working fine. Any other suggestions?

 

VATS bypass. It's fairly easy to do.

 

Don't want to bypass. Want it to work as it should. Thanks

 

How good are you with a multimeter? First use it to measure the resistance of the pellet on your ignition key and determine if it's within 10% of one of the values in this list:If your key doesn't match within 10% then getting a new key should solve the problem. Determine the value your key is closest to matching and get a new key cut on a blank that has the pellet matching that resistance.

If your key does match within 10% then you'll want to determine if VATS in the BCM is seeing the same value. Unplug the blue 32-pin connector from the BCM and measure the resistance between the white/black wire and the purple/white wire (with the key in the ignition of course). The two wires are in different rows on the connector. There is only one white/black wire but there are two purple/white wires close to each other - you want the one closest to the end of the connector between a black wire and an open space (the other one is between that blank space and a dark green wire). Check that the resistance is within 10% of the same value in the list that you found with the key. If not, you've got something changing the resistance. That's usually dirt and grime on the contacts but it could be one of the connectors not solidly plugged together or even corrosion within the connectors. If the measurement at the BCM still matches, then check the connector for any corrosion or dirt and plug it back into the BCM. Sometimes that will fix the problem just because the connection might be tighter. Otherwise you'll probably have to replace the BCM. Even a bypass wouldn't work because the BCM is receiving the correct value but not responding to it properly.

I haven't mentioned the possibility that you get no reading at the BCM (infinite resistance or open circuit) because that would make the security light flash rather than stay solid. But if you do experience that, you'll have to look for where the two wires between the ignition cylinder and the BCM are broken or disconnected. First place to look is the connector at the column under the dash.

 

I've had the SECURITY light remain solid and allow me to keep driving the car, and it was caused by a broken wire on the ignition cylinder. I changed out the cylinder, had a new key cut, and it worked perfectly afterwards.

 

I went to a locksmith when the security light came on and they had a machine that checked the value of resistor and made me a new key but the light still stayed on. I have a 2nd key that came with the car that is on my husband's key change and have used that with no change. I will try to check the connection to the BCM to see if it is loose IF I can get to it from behind the glove box.

 

if you know the value of your key buy a fixed resistor of that same value(may take a combo of 2 or 3 to get the correct value)
put that at the connection of BCM for passkeyII.
youll need a key cut that has no resistor pellet. if it starts and light goes out
you have a problem in that circuit.
Someone that's handy with a meter can check it at the BCM and see if its getting what would be key resistor value
this is an easy way of bypassing the passkey system for diagnosis or removal.
If you want to leave it that way install a switch inline that hidden. OR do a correct fix.

 

Why would I do that when I got a 2 keys when I bought the car and had another key made when the Security light came on and none of the keys has changed that? What is the Correct fix??

 

I give up if you don't want to follow advice.
if the problem is in the wiring or the device that reads the key at the ignition lock
this procedure will check it.I suggest a key with no resistor so that if its not the wiring or reader
then you wont double the resistor value.This is much easier than tearing into steering column
and cutting wires just for diagnosis.Good Luck