2000 Power Seat Short
#1
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From: The dirty taint of the country. ...Los Angeles
2000 Power Seat Short
Issue:
Power Seat has a short of some kind that is continuously drawing power causing the battery to die much like if I had left the dome lights on. Pulled the 30A PWR Seat/ Defroster breaker/fuse out to stop the issue.
About a year ago I started noticing that my battery was undercharged and I figured that it was the battery since I had already crossed the 3 year mark with it. I swapped out the battery and then the new battery started running low. So I tested out the alternator and it checked out fine. But I also had a brand new spare alternator so I just swapped it out. The problem persisted. So I decided to start checking all the fuses and when I got to the fuse box next to the driver's side door I burned my fingers the moment I touched the 30A pwer door/ defroster fuse/breaker. So I pulled it out and the problem stopped. The downside is that now the seat's functions are unusable since the 30A was pulled.
Now that it's been about a year, my lazy *** would like to address it. Anyone have any thoughts on how to fix this issue?
Power Seat has a short of some kind that is continuously drawing power causing the battery to die much like if I had left the dome lights on. Pulled the 30A PWR Seat/ Defroster breaker/fuse out to stop the issue.
About a year ago I started noticing that my battery was undercharged and I figured that it was the battery since I had already crossed the 3 year mark with it. I swapped out the battery and then the new battery started running low. So I tested out the alternator and it checked out fine. But I also had a brand new spare alternator so I just swapped it out. The problem persisted. So I decided to start checking all the fuses and when I got to the fuse box next to the driver's side door I burned my fingers the moment I touched the 30A pwer door/ defroster fuse/breaker. So I pulled it out and the problem stopped. The downside is that now the seat's functions are unusable since the 30A was pulled.
Now that it's been about a year, my lazy *** would like to address it. Anyone have any thoughts on how to fix this issue?
#2
There is no easy answer to this problem. You're going to have to do some testing and tracing to find the source. The first step would be to determine which seat is causing the problem. Unplug one seat and see if the problem persists. If so then plug it back in and unplug the other seat. Whichever one stops the problem when unplugged is the one that needs repair. If unplugging them doesn't solve the problem then the source is either the common wiring between the circuit breaker and the seats or the rear window defogger which is on the same breaker. You can check the defogger by unplugging the HVAC controls below the radio.
Once you've narrowed it down to which device, you'll have to start tracking to determine where the overdraw is coming from. That could mean unplugging individual motors under the seat, the lumbar air module, or the rear defogger connection on the glass depending on what you found previously. It could even mean manually tracing wires to find where the insulation is worn allowing a short.
I doubt that you have a bad motor in the seats. The seat motors aren't getting any power with the switch in the neutral position. A stuck switch would match the symptoms you describe by allowing the circuit to flow current without being a dead short. If you have access to a multimeter with 30A capability (most inexpensive ones only handle 10 amps), you can pull the circuit breaker and measure the actual current flow there.
Once you've narrowed it down to which device, you'll have to start tracking to determine where the overdraw is coming from. That could mean unplugging individual motors under the seat, the lumbar air module, or the rear defogger connection on the glass depending on what you found previously. It could even mean manually tracing wires to find where the insulation is worn allowing a short.
I doubt that you have a bad motor in the seats. The seat motors aren't getting any power with the switch in the neutral position. A stuck switch would match the symptoms you describe by allowing the circuit to flow current without being a dead short. If you have access to a multimeter with 30A capability (most inexpensive ones only handle 10 amps), you can pull the circuit breaker and measure the actual current flow there.
#3
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Joined: Feb 2006
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From: The dirty taint of the country. ...Los Angeles
There is no easy answer to this problem. You're going to have to do some testing and tracing to find the source. The first step would be to determine which seat is causing the problem. Unplug one seat and see if the problem persists. If so then plug it back in and unplug the other seat. Whichever one stops the problem when unplugged is the one that needs repair. If unplugging them doesn't solve the problem then the source is either the common wiring between the circuit breaker and the seats or the rear window defogger which is on the same breaker. You can check the defogger by unplugging the HVAC controls below the radio.
Once you've narrowed it down to which device, you'll have to start tracking to determine where the overdraw is coming from. That could mean unplugging individual motors under the seat, the lumbar air module, or the rear defogger connection on the glass depending on what you found previously. It could even mean manually tracing wires to find where the insulation is worn allowing a short.
I doubt that you have a bad motor in the seats. The seat motors aren't getting any power with the switch in the neutral position. A stuck switch would match the symptoms you describe by allowing the circuit to flow current without being a dead short. If you have access to a multimeter with 30A capability (most inexpensive ones only handle 10 amps), you can pull the circuit breaker and measure the actual current flow there.
Once you've narrowed it down to which device, you'll have to start tracking to determine where the overdraw is coming from. That could mean unplugging individual motors under the seat, the lumbar air module, or the rear defogger connection on the glass depending on what you found previously. It could even mean manually tracing wires to find where the insulation is worn allowing a short.
I doubt that you have a bad motor in the seats. The seat motors aren't getting any power with the switch in the neutral position. A stuck switch would match the symptoms you describe by allowing the circuit to flow current without being a dead short. If you have access to a multimeter with 30A capability (most inexpensive ones only handle 10 amps), you can pull the circuit breaker and measure the actual current flow there.