Hi everyone, hows it going. About 2 years ago I had an alarm/remote start system installed in my 99 T/A by a car audio install chain store in Reno NV. The system I purchased has 5105v on the side of the box and a snake. This issue I've been having has been going on for about the past year, I have returned to the install shop 3 different times about this issue, I even went to a different location one time while it was still under warranty, and every time they would drive it back into the install bay for about an hour then bring it back around and say "your good to go" and off I go, only to find out later, they didn't fix it. It only does this when the car is parked in the sun on a hot day, which is pretty much every single day in Nevada. I would turn the AC controls on high prior to exiting the vehicle so that when I activated the remote start the car would be nice and cool when I returned. When I hit the remote it will start up and run for about 5 seconds, and then shut off, it would do this over and over. I don't know exactly how many times it will try to restart before it gives up because every time I've witnessed it I would panic and run to car full speed to put the key in the ignition and stomp the brake to deactivate it. But now that the warranty is over, I just want to remove the whole system myself, once and for all. I was wondering if I could just remove all of the aftermarket alarm/remote start equipment from my car without any "special procedures" that I am probably not aware of, other than patch up all the splices they put in the factory wiring? Also I was really, really, wondering if my factory alarm would continue working perfectly like it did prior to having the aftermarket one installed. I haven't been able to use the factory remotes since the install because pressing any button on the factory remotes makes the horn start honking. I'm not sure of the rpo code for the factory alarm, but it has a chip on the ignition keys, remote locks and hatch opener, and it also has a factory mounted shock censor near the spare tire. I attached a picture the manifest sheet with all the installed options, if any one needs to see what's in it. Thank You in advance, and have a wonderful day. Thank you everyone for your help, I tell if it wasn't for this awesome website, and the insane amount of knowledge that the people on this website posess, I don't what I would do without you. Thank you all again! Oh yeah almost forgot, I got an email from DEI/ Viper and they gave me a listing of all their authorized dealers right here in Pensacola. They said take to any of these shops to be repaired or replaced under warranty! HELL YESSSS!

 

I’m no install expert, I’m sure someone with knowledge will chime in. To get some clarity for others to answer also , I have questions.

1. Does the issue happen at peak of hot day or pretty much 24x7 at night or cool mornings too?
2. What did alarm place try to fix? Did they have to bypass vats all over again with resistors?

 

bad 408 vert. Thank you for your reply. It only does it when it's the hottest part of the day, and it's been sitting in the direct sunlight. As far as what they done when I brought it back to them, 3 different times they never said anything about what they done. On the 3rd return, I took it to a different location,but same business, the guy that worked on it there said that he found "a lot of things wrong with it" but he didn't specify anything particular. Thanks again for your reply

 

Your alarm is a Viper 5105v by Directed Electronics (DEI). That is a famous and very well respected brand name so you have a quality product but apparently the installation is not of equivalent quality. You can find the owner's manual and installation manual in PDF format for download by googling viper 5105v installation manual. If you are familiar with automotive wiring, there is no reason you can't cleanly remove the system. Or you could just use the alarm features of the system and not the remote start if that's the only thing not working properly.

You might want to try fixing the problem yourself first. Looking at the manual, I can see a couple of programmable options which might help. I'd be willing to bet that they left the default setting of having the "virtual tach" on. This setting checks the line voltage about 15 seconds after the start attempt to see if the voltage has gone up (i.e. the engine is running and the alternator is putting out more than static battery voltage) to indicate a successful start. If it doesn't see that, it will shut off the ignition and try the process over again. There are a number of reasons why that might not work reliably. You can change the options to make it check the physical tach output instead so that the module determines whether the engine is running by the RPM. This is a little slower responding but almost flawlessly accurate. While looking at this option, also check the run time and timer mode settings to make sure they have appropriate settings.

The factory alarm RPO is UA6 and you have it. The shock sensor (and the red LED on top of the dash) are sure indicators of having the factory alarm. It has probably been programmed off so as not to interfere with the Viper alarm but it's easy to re-enable. Instructions are in your owner's manual and posted several times in this forum (https://ls1tech.com/forums/stereo-el...ml#post2965615).

 

Do you have your receipt still? What bypass module did they sell you? Also you should ask if they hooked up the factory alarm disarm wire from the viper to your TA. Gm vats needs to see factory alarm disarm prior to remote starting or it will start and die. Your 99 is a really easy install. If they used anything other than just standard resistors for the bypass then that is most likely the issue. I'll send you a PM with the wiring info...

Tried to send you a PM. But says you don't allow PM's. If you want the wiring info let me know.

 

Sorry, there is no such thing as a factory alarm disarm wire in a 4th generation f-body. Both VATS and the factory alarm (along with keyless entry) are self contained in the BCM and have no external control wires other than the power door lock switches in the doors. If the VATS bypass was done improperly then the car wouldn't start at all whether remotely or with the ignition switch, especially since VATS controls the starter relay in addition to the fuel enable signal to the PCM (in other words it wouldn't start and then quit on remote start because a VATS problem wouldn't allow it to crank in the first place).

If you really want to get into it, the system has a remote start shutdown diagnostic mode that will help you determine the reason for the shutdowns. You have to let the remote start cycle and retry on its own (it tries three times before giving up) before running the diagnostic procedure. The procedure is described on page 56 of the installation guide: Installation Guide.

 

I’m just going to LOL at your reply and move on. God forbid someone else in the this world might be able to help and give accurate info. To the OP if you still want that info on factory security programming and the install sheet on your vehicles wires, it would at least help you uninstall it. Other wise take your time and pull out anything attached to the brain, Door lock system may have a module or relays and bypass. Good luck.

Quick PS for the OP a bad tach signal to the remote start will also cause the same issue. I can tell you how to check to see if it has been learned or if hooked up properly, but if they disabled that feature you could only see it with a directed bitwriter.

 

Please don't get your panties in a wad over someone pointing out inaccurate information. We want to provide the most accurate advice we can for everyone on these forums.

If you feel your post is actually accurate then prove it. Where exactly is this alarm disable wire on a 4th generation f-body? And how, exactly, would a 4th generation f-body start with a VATS problem which prevents the starter from operating?

Prove me wrong and I'll gladly proclaim to everyone that you were right. Otherwise, please accept that it has been corrected.