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Yes, I miss TO in the summer... in the winter not so much. I have traveled extensively for business and I still think Toronto is one of the nicest cities in North America but it's expensive and has horrific traffic - the 401 is the only free parking in the city during rush hour.
I no longer have my T/A. I sold it about 10 years ago to buy a Mustang convertible. I had a Kenwood double DIN system in it with upgraded speakers but still running off the factory Monsoon amp. I figure a car (especially a fairly loud car) is not a great audio environment so I didn't want to spend a huge amount of money on a system.
That's good! The specs I found online indicated that it was about 4.5" deep but that's obviously not the case. I must have looked at a different 6.5" sub from that manufacturer.
Hey Whitebird00 how are you?
I need some help with my Tang Bang speakers going into my sails. The Tang Bang are dual voice, I will e using the factory amp should I wire then positive to negative or positive to positive and negative to negative?
Thanks
You should seriously consider some sound dampening material too. It really does make a difference. Inside the door (in the door), outside the door (between the door and interior trim), inside the sail panel, and on the sail panel.
It seems like a lot, but a 6pk and a cool afternoon is really all it takes..... ok... 12pk and some bad words....and tools that you have to go find because you threw them across the yard.
It really is not worth what a car audio place is going to charge you. If it is, then that company is not.
If you have two weekends, or no neighbors, you could go to the next level.....the floor, gas tank area, roof area, and rear hatch area. There will be more thrown tools and curses on Disney characters.
Last edited by FCar2000TA; 07-06-2021 at 05:04 PM.
Hey Whitebird00 how are you?
I need some help with my Tang Bang speakers going into my sails. The Tang Bang are dual voice, I will e using the factory amp should I wire then positive to negative or positive to positive and negative to negative?
Thanks
It depends on if they are 4-ohm (i.e. 4-ohm + 4-ohm dual voice coil) or 2-ohm (two 2-ohm coils). The Monsoon amp in Camaros is 2-ohm stable for the sail panels. So you would wire a 4-ohm DVC with the two coils in parallel like this:
Thanks to the12volt.com for the diagram.
Note how the two positive terminals are connected together and the two negative terminals are connected together. This converts your 4-ohm DVC sub into the 2-ohm load that the Monsoon amp expects.
Now, on the other hand, if you have 2-ohm DVC subs then there is no way to achieve a total 2-ohm load unless you only connect one of the two voice coils (not a good idea). So your only option is to wire the two voice coils in series which creates a 4-ohm overall load for the amp. This will reduce your total power output a little but it won't affect sound quality and the difference is volume is really quite minor (3dB). Here is how to wire the voice coils in series:
Thanks again to the12volt.com for the diagram.
In this case you can think of positive as input and negative as output... you wire the input (positive) from the amp to one voice coil and the output of that voice coil to the input of the other voice coil then the output of that second voice coil back to the amp. What this does is make the signal current flow through both voice coils one after the other (in a series) creating a total impedance of 2-ohms + 2-ohms = 4-ohms for the amp.
It depends on if they are 4-ohm (i.e. 4-ohm + 4-ohm dual voice coil) or 2-ohm (two 2-ohm coils). The Monsoon amp in Camaros is 2-ohm stable for the sail panels. So you would wire a 4-ohm DVC with the two coils in parallel like this:
Thanks to the12volt.com for the diagram.
Note how the two positive terminals are connected together and the two negative terminals are connected together. This converts your 4-ohm DVC sub into the 2-ohm load that the Monsoon amp expects.
Now, on the other hand, if you have 2-ohm DVC subs then there is no way to achieve a total 2-ohm load unless you only connect one of the two voice coils (not a good idea). So your only option is to wire the two voice coils in series which creates a 4-ohm overall load for the amp. This will reduce your total power output a little but it won't affect sound quality and the difference is volume is really quite minor (3dB). Here is how to wire the voice coils in series:
Thanks again to the12volt.com for the diagram.
In this case you can think of positive as input and negative as output... you wire the input (positive) from the amp to one voice coil and the output of that voice coil to the input of the other voice coil then the output of that second voice coil back to the amp. What this does is make the signal current flow through both voice coils one after the other (in a series) creating a total impedance of 2-ohms + 2-ohms = 4-ohms for the amp.
The Tang Bang are 4 ohms so I will be wiring them positive with positive and negative with negative. Thank you for your time helping me out on this.
Thanks
Yes, it does although it still gets blurry when I enlarge to confirm details.
It's pretty clear that the red circle is where one end of both capacitors connect. That's the positive side. Now this has me wondering if this speaker has both a high-pass filter for the tweeter and a low pass filter for the woofer. That would be quite unusual but not unheard of. Based on the rating visible on the casing, the capacitor with the yellow end is a high-pass filter. The other one I can't be sure because I can't see all the markings.
In any case, follow the lead that goes from the yellow capacitor to where it goes into the speaker. You should see another wire right next to it that goes to the other (smaller/negative) terminal. Those are your tweeter wires where you would connect the factory tweeter wiring pair. Just to confirm, you should find the wire coming out of the end of the other capacitor (the one with the black/copper casing) goes to a different point on the speaker (for the woofer) and there will be another wire next to it which also goes to the smaller terminal on the connection plate.
Good today! So I tried to install the door speaker yesterday. Here is what I did I took the yellow capacitor from the positive off and attached it to the positive tweeter door harness and negative to negative, I did the same to the black capacitor. So here is the thing, they do not sound right they sound distorted for some reason. What did I do wrong here. Thanks
If you're using those coaxials to replace the original door component sets and want to convert them to work as components then you don't need either of the capacitors - the Monsoon amp does all the signal filtering you need. Remove the capacitors, make sure the tweeter wires are disconnected from the speaker terminals (and the woofer wires ARE connected to the terminals), then wire the factory tweeter wire pair to the tweeter leads. Connect the factory woofer wire pair to the speaker terminals and you're all set.
If you're using those coaxials to replace the original door component sets and want to convert them to work as components then you don't need either of the capacitors - the Monsoon amp does all the signal filtering you need. Remove the capacitors, make sure the tweeter wires are disconnected from the speaker terminals (and the woofer wires ARE connected to the terminals), then wire the factory tweeter wire pair to the tweeter leads. Connect the factory woofer wire pair to the speaker terminals and you're all set.
Thanks I will try this and let you now.
Again thanks for all your help
For sail panels, I used the foam sound deadening inserts they sell at autozone and cut the bottom out.
I bought a set of Alpine S65 components, they had pretty clear sound but lacked volume. I replaced those with JBl 2 ohm GX component speakers and got much louder sound. The CDT components that Kee sells would be a much better choice than the Alpines. Orions had louder sound than Alpine S. Those Alpine S are too expensive for what you get sound wise.
Last edited by wannafbody; 07-24-2021 at 10:02 PM.
For sail panels, I used the foam sound deadening inserts they sell at autozone and cut the bottom out.
I bought a set of Alpine S65 components, they had pretty clear sound but lacked volume. I replaced those with JBl 2 ohm GX component speakers and got much louder sound. The CDT components that Kee sells would be a much better choice than the Alpines. Orions had louder sound than Alpine S. Those Alpine S are too expensive for what you get sound wise.
I am using the Alpine S-S65 for my door not my sails, for my sail I am using Tang Bangs
If you're using those coaxials to replace the original door component sets and want to convert them to work as components then you don't need either of the capacitors - the Monsoon amp does all the signal filtering you need. Remove the capacitors, make sure the tweeter wires are disconnected from the speaker terminals (and the woofer wires ARE connected to the terminals), then wire the factory tweeter wire pair to the tweeter leads. Connect the factory woofer wire pair to the speaker terminals and you're all set.
So I separated the tweeter and the woofer and the sound is good but there is an crackle at times. Do you thing that the amp might be casing that because the Apline's 4 ohms and the amp on that channel this 2 ohms?
Thanks
No, there is a common misconception that it is important to match the impedance of the speaker with the amp. The impedance generally has nothing to do with sound quality although higher impedance helps reduce electrical interference from other devices and circuits. Most home stereos run 8-ohm speakers for that reason but car systems have to make a compromise between output power from relatively small amplifiers and interference from other circuits. With cars being a fairly noisy environment, 4-ohm speakers are the most commonly used because more output power is desirable and electrical noise is not as noticieable.
You can always use higher impedance speakers than the amp expects without causing any problems other than a small reduction in output power. In fact, higher impedance speakers help amps run cooler by limiting the current draw. So connecting 4-ohm speakers in place of the original 2-ohm speakers will not cause a problem. The opposite is not true - you should never run speakers of lower impedance than the amp is rated for (called stability as in the amp is 2-ohm stable). Doing so won't be a problem at low volumes but as soon as you turn up the volume you risk blowing the output section of the amp because of more current flow than it's designed to handle.
A crackling noise is often the result of a bad connection somewhere. Making sure all of your connections are clean and tight may eliminate the noise.
No, there is a common misconception that it is important to match the impedance of the speaker with the amp. The impedance generally has nothing to do with sound quality although higher impedance helps reduce electrical interference from other devices and circuits. Most home stereos run 8-ohm speakers for that reason but car systems have to make a compromise between output power from relatively small amplifiers and interference from other circuits. With cars being a fairly noisy environment, 4-ohm speakers are the most commonly used because more output power is desirable and electrical noise is not as noticieable.
You can always use higher impedance speakers than the amp expects without causing any problems other than a small reduction in output power. In fact, higher impedance speakers help amps run cooler by limiting the current draw. So connecting 4-ohm speakers in place of the original 2-ohm speakers will not cause a problem. The opposite is not true - you should never run speakers of lower impedance than the amp is rated for (called stability as in the amp is 2-ohm stable). Doing so won't be a problem at low volumes but as soon as you turn up the volume you risk blowing the output section of the amp because of more current flow than it's designed to handle.
A crackling noise is often the result of a bad connection somewhere. Making sure all of your connections are clean and tight may eliminate the noise.
Hey man thanks for your help all worked out, the sound is amazing very happy with the quality the Monssoon amp works very will.
Thanks
04-11-2021 | 04:52 PM
