2001 camaro ss, without monsoon (I think). I’m reinstalling all of my speakers, let me start by saying my end result will be sundown audio subs probably the sa v.2 or E series.. their sa 6.5 are awesome but $.. $ isn’t huge deal but I want matching mids? (Brand, power, impedance) running of HU but a amp in the future. I need the front doors now, want separate tweets with the MAG tweet pods, but my side mirror is manual.. should I dump back seat, or rewire for (coaxial or components). What about back deck, new 4”/6x9? Can I make 8” fit? Anywhere? Is it necessary?

looking at jbl gto, Memphis 6.75, kicker mostly because they carry 4”.. help me do it right the first time.. or at least plan..

 

I think all late model SS Camaros came with the Monsoon system. If you have speakers in the hatch area then you have a Monsoon system. You can confirm by checking the door label for RPO code UZ7.

The question is what do you want to achieve? Are you just replacing speakers because they need replacing? Or are you looking to transform your existing system (head unit, amp, sub, etc.)? The Monsoon system already comes with components (mid and tweeter) in the doors and subs in the sail panels which can be upgraded at a reasonable cost with some really good replacements - check out Kee Audio. This would be your best option if you're not planning a complete system overhaul. For example, why would you consider running the door speakers off the head unit (especially if you're keeping the factory HU) when you have a perfectly good amp already?

Now, if you're planning to upgrade the entire system then you should replace the head unit first... it's a distortion producing machine and has no pre-amp output. Then you need to decide about amplification. To do that, you have to have an idea of how you want to configure your speakers. The Monsoon configuration works well but lacks some bottom end because the sail panel subs are more mid-bass than true subs. You could mimic that configuration with components in the doors, mid-bass in the sail panels and a sub (or two) to provide more bass - perhaps a stealth box. Or you could go with a four point system having components (or even coaxials) in both the doors and sail panels. Most audiophiles would gag at that configuration - they'll tell you that you need the sound stage to be at the front - but everyone has their own preferences and many people enjoy the "surround sound" effect even if it isn't technically correct.

Once you know how you want the speakers configured, you can decide on amplification. You could go with a 4-channel amp then add another amp for a sub or two. Or you could keep it simple and go with a 5-channel amp (less space and wiring required). The output levels and impedance stability will depend on the capabilities of the speakers. 2-ohm speakers offer more power for the amount of current but tend to be more susceptible to electrical noise. 4-ohm is the sweet spot in car audio unless you're building a really high end system. The difference in power output is minimal but the resistance to noise is much better.

There is this internet legend out there that speakers in a system should all be from the same manufacturer. That's simply BS. Yes, speakers should be matched in pairs (just like tires) but there's no reason you couldn't use Kicker in the sail panels and Alpine or some other brand in the doors.

Many members here have gone in both directions - upgrade the Monsoon or replace and upgrade the whole system. Let us know what you would most like to do and I'm sure you'll get lots of suggestions. Just bear in mind that speaker selection can be a personal preference. For example, some people love Infinity speakers because they are "bright" while others complain that they make their ears bleed. Take the advice you get and then go to an audio store and listen to them yourself before making a decision.

 

1st let me say I've I replaced the HU. Second I'm 100% sure That I don't have mansoon, I don't have a amp I did not sure for an amp and there is not a tweeter in my car I don't know if it's a myth but I think I have a true LE The lightened eddition from factory. No power windows no power locks you can't open my trunk without a key have no air conditioning I'm just little things That others mention they have I don't

I was only planning to run the speakers off at the HU Until I got another amp I do have a MA audio HC4002Out about 3,000 rms And subs That's why I mentioned Going with the same manufacture Would be nice to have them all match in the end But not necessary..

Yeah the problem with the internet these days is you can't go in and listen To all the ones you like, I realized This is not the best option.I am not 1 of those audio files who need front center nor do I like particularly bright ear piercing hi's Just want full rich I'm more of a low type I'm leaning more towards the JBLGTO

 

You mentioned updating the hatch area speakers... if you have speakers in the hatch area (or even just the factory grilles in the trim panels if the speakers have been removed) then you definitely have a Monsoon vehicle. The only other audio system available was the base system which had only four speakers (doors and sail panels) with nothing in the hatch area. If there is no amp there now then someone has removed it.

Your amp is a class AB, high current, 2-channel, 20 year old model that is not bad but nowhere near 3000 watts RMS. It has four 40-amp fuses so it is physically impossible for it to produce that kind of output... more like 1600 RMS at 1-ohm bridged. Still not bad but you'll have to be very conscious of your power supply and fusing due to the high current design.

 

Sundown makes great stuff, just pricey. I personally, run 2 sets of 6.5s up front from CDT. A set in the door and a set in the kicks. Nothing in the rear, both 2 Ohms wired in series for a 4 Ohm load. They're on an Orion XTR 500.4 doing 250w RMS x 2 @ 4 Ohms. And I have dual stealth boxes, SSA Demon Dual 2s wired at 0.5 Ohm on an Orion XTR 650.1. Fairly loud for what it is.

I do think most like the surround affect, while I like the front and centered sound stage of my car. I wouldn't worry about the MAG tweeter pods, just flush mount the tweeter into the door panel. Components up front, coaxials in the rear. (I like CDT, Morel, Hybrid Audio. Basically speakers with a warmer tone) and either triple 10s or dual 12s in the sub thump box. That would be the loudest drop in box for bass.

I would run Morel Maximo 6 components in the front the coax version in the back. I would do 3 Sundown SD-4 10s Dual 2s wired to 1.33 Ohms in the subthump box. Good amps for this would be Sundown's SFB 200.4 which is 88x4 RMS @ 4 Ohms and their SFB 2000 which did over 2200 watts at 1.33 Ohms.
I recommend the SD-4s over the SA series purely because ,unless you go custom, the only pre-fabbed boxes are sealed. The SA series would be a lot more peaky than the SD-4s. The SD-4s will play much flatter and lower than the SA series in a sealed box. Now if you go custom for the box, do SA 10s in a ported box on a SFB 2000.

Running that much power, a stock electrical system isn't gonna cut it at all. Gonna need a 240amp alternator (Mechman or comparable) with 1/0 Big 3 and a nicer AGM battery.

 

I am the only owner of this car, I do have 6 speakers but I can’t find a amplifier and I have taken all the carpet out to dynomat (cuz back in the 90’s I was told to) and when I wired the new 2din I didn’t have a amplifier wire either is that normal also only one website had the color and diagram correct for my car??

And yes my amp is 20 years old and is touted as 4000 watts!!!! ILSMA I have had it dynoed 2696 at 1ohm I had another which blew that dynode 2133 w so it seems they were all over the place.. anyone else..?

So so I used to ROCK MA AUDIO early 2000.. blew a sub and amp got hooked on heroin for 10 years.. so the car sat mostly.. that shitty system blew the back window out of my car.. Looking for a replacement found SUNDOWN and because of their box tolerances and sound. Impatiently waiting for a yard sale I bought old ma audio subs just for some noise until I can redesign everything, the day I get amp power and subs in, I bought 2 SA-12 v.2 D4..

CAREFULLY, I got ya I figure for 8k in the future even did it at 12.8v and 50% efficient. I know the math and have a Oscope, (not like ya spoiled SMD DD)

so I just wanted to know what speaker/brand to build on those SA 6.5 are 350$.. what configuration you guys like.. read some get rid of everything behind the seat, some are fully re wiring so the rear sails are not just bass, some just replace everything running off HU or amp.. components/mounting, crazy 8” installs, what worked/didn’t.. thanks!!

 

have a prefab sealed .75 ft3.. I bought SA-12 v.2d4 which recommend sealed is .75-1.25 hoping polyfill helps?? Planning on the sub thump, in the future. I think its a little over 1.0 per sub?? Is sealed out of the question? Also going to try to run dual alt?? Any one tried? I have a 15 farad capacitor.. end result will have a second battery.. have 2/0 and big 3 done

 

Since you have six speaker positions (which is actually eight speakers since the doors have component mids and tweeters), it is an absolute certainty that you have a Monsoon system... there was no other factory system which had six speaker positions. The amp is quite small and is mounted vertically to a bracket in front of the spare tire. You can find a photo of it in the Monsoon FAQ sticky at the top of the section. The amp doesn't have a remote turn-on wire like most aftermarket amps - it uses audio signal sensing to turn on and off. The correct wiring colors are also listed in the FAQ. Of course, if you had used a proper wiring harness adapter to install your new head unit, you wouldn't have needed to know the wire colors anyway.

 

 

I believed you guys I have searched for the amp everywhere mine doesn’t look anything like a amp, it’s plastic.. it took this picture to realize what I was looking at..

 

i asked because you guys know, I was under the impression that it looked like a amp and was on the other side.. the wires I need to know are for the new hu to the new harness/kit.. so I guess it wasn’t proper?

 

Installing a wiring harness adapter doesn't require any knowledge of the factory wiring colors. The adapter harness has all the standard aftermarket head unit wire colors so it's just a case of matching the wires of the HU with the same color in the adapter harness... red to red, yellow to yellow, etc. Once you have connected the matching color wires, the harness simply plugs into the factory radio harness connector without having to cut or splice any wires there.

One exception is adding a steering wheel control adapter which requires connecting the loose dark blue wire separately.