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Battery relocation question

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Old Jul 8, 2021 | 12:57 PM
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Default Battery relocation question

Hi all,

Was watching my neighbor friend put his battery in his trunk yesterday and he is simply running a 1/0 positive cable from the side mount battery pole and is bolting it directly to the factory battery lug up front. When I asked hey don't you gotta run so and so he replied why re invent the wheel this works factory all we're doing is essentially lengthening the positive battery pole.

He used to work installing car audio and now hes a high voltage electrician, his car is pretty nice i see no reason why his logic should be off but it's just not the way i've seen/done it myself in the past. Any proof he's not right and I can do the same?
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Old Jul 8, 2021 | 01:22 PM
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Okay so I'm guessing you are saying can you just run the battery cable to another cable and then run it to your truck? The answer is yes people do that every day.

Proof reading is your friend brah
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Old Jul 8, 2021 | 02:40 PM
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Haha im guessing you mean battery cable, another cable then run it the BATTERY?

proof readin everybody's friend😉

thanks for the reply trying to clarify though
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Old Jul 8, 2021 | 02:46 PM
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**** yes lmfao battery not truck, truck was on the mind.

Felt like you had a lot of weird *** grammar that's why I said something hahaha

But is that what you mean? Cable to cable to battery? Then yes you can do that. My amp ground is literally 4 golf cart ground cables bolted together.
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Old Jul 8, 2021 | 03:07 PM
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Just because it works does not mean it's correct or the best way, So yes you can do that but if he is an electrician he should also know that a longer run mean more resistance so you want to keep it as short as possible. Longer length also raises the chance of a short somewhere along it's route.
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Old Jul 8, 2021 | 03:31 PM
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^^ This
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Old Jul 9, 2021 | 08:43 AM
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Originally Posted by LLLosingit
Just because it works does not mean it's correct or the best way, So yes you can do that but if he is an electrician he should also know that a longer run mean more resistance so you want to keep it as short as possible. Longer length also raises the chance of a short somewhere along it's route.
Yes, a longer run definitely increases resistance but that can be compensated for by using larger gauge wire. There are plenty of charts on the web showing wire size versus current flow and resistance for specified lengths.

And yes, the longer the wire, the more opportunities to encounter a short but that can be avoided by proper router and mounting. Make sure the wire is properly insulated and protected, even adding an insulating sleeve if necessary, and route it so that it doesn't move and chafe against any body parts.

A trunk mounted battery has distinct advantages but only if done properly. Get yourself a big enough wire to account for the extra length, then route and mount it properly, and you'll have no problems.
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Old Jul 9, 2021 | 11:39 PM
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Originally Posted by WhiteBird00
Yes, a longer run definitely increases resistance but that can be compensated for by using larger gauge wire. There are plenty of charts on the web showing wire size versus current flow and resistance for specified lengths.

And yes, the longer the wire, the more opportunities to encounter a short but that can be avoided by proper router and mounting. Make sure the wire is properly insulated and protected, even adding an insulating sleeve if necessary, and route it so that it doesn't move and chafe against any body parts.

A trunk mounted battery has distinct advantages but only if done properly. Get yourself a big enough wire to account for the extra length, then route and mount it properly, and you'll have no problems.
But why run it to the original battery post is the question, If you are going to take the time to do it with the correct gauge wire and connectors then why not remove the factory positive cable and run your connection to the right spot?
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Old Jul 10, 2021 | 01:43 PM
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Originally Posted by LLLosingit
But why run it to the original battery post is the question, If you are going to take the time to do it with the correct gauge wire and connectors then why not remove the factory positive cable and run your connection to the right spot?
Of course you're right... if you want to just relocate the battery to the back then the original battery cables should be eliminated and the new longer cable routed in their place. Connecting to the existing cable will work but it's the ghetto way to do things and it adds another potential point of failure at the connection..

For some reason I misread the original question - thinking they were running a second battery in parallel for extra amp-hours rather than relocating the single battery.
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