bad_408_vert

iTrader: (6)

Hi All

I seem to be having age old VATS issue , where security light comes on & stays SOLID in extreme hot/humid days. Other days it’s okay and car starts normal for weeks.

Latest experience was battery had to be disconnected for 24 hours to let computer reset.

Car: 2002 camaro SS with an aftermarket DEI keyless entry and remote start installed in 2012.
All the features on it work fine.

After Looking under the column to inspect if resistors are loose or bad, I noticed something odd.

The two white wires in orange sheath (VATS presumptuously) are just cut from the plug with array of wires it normally goes to and are just hanging.

I haven’t been able to bring it to place that did the install yet since they are backed up with appointments. I want to get thoughts from others on what this may mean and what is actually causing the Security light to come on extreme hot or cold days?

One theory I have is that there is some type of bypass done upstream with the remote start system at time of install but if that was it , something should still connect to the plug in place of original wires?

Anything else to look at like the bcm for this phantom issue?


Thank You

WhiteBird00

iTrader: (4)

I'm just spitballing here but here are some thoughts...

• The solid security light indicates that the BCM (VATS) is seeing resistance but it's just not the right resistance. That's different from the light flashing which indicates it doesn't see a resistor at all (open circuit) which would indicate a break in the connections somewhere.
• The fact that it works in moderate temperatures but not in extremes of hot or cold would seem to indicate some sort of thermal expansion/contraction issue. It's possible that a connection is marginal and is being affected by that expansion and contraction.
• It's also possible (at least theoretically) that the temperature extremes are affecting the resistors themselves causing a change in their resistance. I've never heard of that happening in normal (human tolerable) temperature ranges but it is possible, especially on the hot side since the interior will get much hotter than the ambient air temperature.

Again, I'm just throwing out ideas and I may be way off. As far as the cut wires, I agree that the bypass was probably installed upstream somewhere - probably close to the BCM because most of the wiring needed for an alarm or keyless entry system is available there and it's a secure place to hide the alarm brain. In fact, installing it there is a sign of an experienced and knowledgeable installer. But cutting the wires at the steering column when they could just be unplugged is not a good sign. There is nothing that would need to be connected to the wires at the base of the column if a bypass was done upstream... simply unplugging that connector so that it would not connect to the contacts in the ignition cylinder would be enough.

DEI made a couple of different VATS kits and also included VATS bypass capability in a few of their alarm systems. Their 652T kit was simply a set of resistors with instructions no different than what a DIY installed would use. Their 20402 kit was a module with DIP switches for setting the matching resistance. The instructions showed it was designed to install at the base of the steering column but a good installer could easily put it near the BCM.

I suppose it is possible that a problem with the BCM itself could cause these symptoms. We already know of bad solder joints on the board so I suppose such a solder problem could be affected by temperature extremes. I've never heard of that happening and it is unlikely but it is a possibility. It would be difficult to test. You'd have to confirm the correct resistance across the two wires at the BCM when it's working and then check again when hot to see if it was different. If it was still the same then you know the bypass is okay and that leaves you with the BCM itself by process of elimination.