Reverse lock out wiring help.
Reverse lock out wiring help. Hey all, I’m doing a T56 swap and need to power my reverse lock out. When I took apart the auto shifter there was a pair of wires controlling a safety mechanism that are now just dangling. They have constant power until you step on the brake then power is cut. So what I need it to somehow reverse that pattern. Off all the time and power only when brake is pushed. There is also a constant 12 volts at the cig lighter and that auxiliary plug. So what can I wire in there that needs 12 volts to keep the second 12 volt line from continuing on unit the first 12 volt line is cut by the brake pedal. I know this is basically science fiction but there may be a thing that meets my needs???
Joined: Nov 2003
Posts: 11,328
Likes: 345
From: Jacksonville, FL (originally from Toronto Canada)
What exactly are you trying to accomplish? A line lock maybe?
Every manual transmission has a mechanical reverse lockout mechanism (i.e. you either push the shifter down or you pull up on a lockout ring on the shifter shaft). The only electrical part is the backup light switch. It gets ignition controlled power via the brown wire and outputs that power to the backup lamps when reverse is engaged via the light green wire.
Automatic transmissions have an electrical brake interlock which prevents you from switching out of park without pressing the brake... but that is completely unnecessary with a manual transmission.
Every manual transmission has a mechanical reverse lockout mechanism (i.e. you either push the shifter down or you pull up on a lockout ring on the shifter shaft). The only electrical part is the backup light switch. It gets ignition controlled power via the brown wire and outputs that power to the backup lamps when reverse is engaged via the light green wire.
Automatic transmissions have an electrical brake interlock which prevents you from switching out of park without pressing the brake... but that is completely unnecessary with a manual transmission.
What exactly are you trying to accomplish? A line lock maybe?
Every manual transmission has a mechanical reverse lockout mechanism (i.e. you either push the shifter down or you pull up on a lockout ring on the shifter shaft). The only electrical part is the backup light switch. It gets ignition controlled power via the brown wire and outputs that power to the backup lamps when reverse is engaged via the light green wire.
Automatic transmissions have an electrical brake interlock which prevents you from switching out of park without pressing the brake... but that is completely unnecessary with a manual transmission.
Every manual transmission has a mechanical reverse lockout mechanism (i.e. you either push the shifter down or you pull up on a lockout ring on the shifter shaft). The only electrical part is the backup light switch. It gets ignition controlled power via the brown wire and outputs that power to the backup lamps when reverse is engaged via the light green wire.
Automatic transmissions have an electrical brake interlock which prevents you from switching out of park without pressing the brake... but that is completely unnecessary with a manual transmission.
Joined: Nov 2003
Posts: 11,328
Likes: 345
From: Jacksonville, FL (originally from Toronto Canada)
I did a little research and found that there is indeed an electrical solenoid reverse lockout in the T56 because the mechanical lockout doesn't sufficiently block accidentally shifting into reverse when going for 5th... essentially a fix for a somewhat flawed design without changing to a stiffer lockout spring to accomplish the same thing.
Most people are simply connecting one wire of the solenoid to the brake switch output (light blue wire) under the dash for power and the other to a good chassis ground.
There is no way to use the existing circuit because when you need power to disable the lockout, it simply isn't there. You'll have to run a power wire to resolve that situation so you might as well just run a new one directly from the brake switch and not use the leftover factory wiring.
Most people are simply connecting one wire of the solenoid to the brake switch output (light blue wire) under the dash for power and the other to a good chassis ground.
There is no way to use the existing circuit because when you need power to disable the lockout, it simply isn't there. You'll have to run a power wire to resolve that situation so you might as well just run a new one directly from the brake switch and not use the leftover factory wiring.
I did a little research and found that there is indeed an electrical solenoid reverse lockout in the T56 because the mechanical lockout doesn't sufficiently block accidentally shifting into reverse when going for 5th... essentially a fix for a somewhat flawed design without changing to a stiffer lockout spring to accomplish the same thing.
Most people are simply connecting one wire of the solenoid to the brake switch output (light blue wire) under the dash for power and the other to a good chassis ground.
There is no way to use the existing circuit because when you need power to disable the lockout, it simply isn't there. You'll have to run a power wire to resolve that situation so you might as well just run a new one directly from the brake switch and not use the leftover factory wiring.
Most people are simply connecting one wire of the solenoid to the brake switch output (light blue wire) under the dash for power and the other to a good chassis ground.
There is no way to use the existing circuit because when you need power to disable the lockout, it simply isn't there. You'll have to run a power wire to resolve that situation so you might as well just run a new one directly from the brake switch and not use the leftover factory wiring.
Ok, that’s what I’ll do then. Now, what would be the best way to pass the wires from the interior through the tunnel to under the car? Is there a good clean way to do this? And where should the hole be drilled? ( place on the tunnel) thanx.
Joined: Nov 2003
Posts: 11,328
Likes: 345
From: Jacksonville, FL (originally from Toronto Canada)
The usual place that everyone uses to get wiring from the interior to the outside (or vice versa) is the large grommet below the PCM which is behind the glovebox in the dash. But I would imagine you could use the parking brake lever boot since it would be closer to where you want to connect. Just be sure to add some extra insulation where it passes through (electrical tape or shrink wrap tubing) and leave sufficient slack in the wire so that it doesn't rub when you engage/disengage the parking brake - you want the whole wire to move a little rather than having it slide back and forth in the hole you put in the boot.
The usual place that everyone uses to get wiring from the interior to the outside (or vice versa) is the large grommet below the PCM which is behind the glovebox in the dash. But I would imagine you could use the parking brake lever boot since it would be closer to where you want to connect. Just be sure to add some extra insulation where it passes through (electrical tape or shrink wrap tubing) and leave sufficient slack in the wire so that it doesn't rub when you engage/disengage the parking brake - you want the whole wire to move a little rather than having it slide back and forth in the hole you put in the boot.
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The usual place that everyone uses to get wiring from the interior to the outside (or vice versa) is the large grommet below the PCM which is behind the glovebox in the dash. But I would imagine you could use the parking brake lever boot since it would be closer to where you want to connect. Just be sure to add some extra insulation where it passes through (electrical tape or shrink wrap tubing) and leave sufficient slack in the wire so that it doesn't rub when you engage/disengage the parking brake - you want the whole wire to move a little rather than having it slide back and forth in the hole you put in the boot.
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Verdad Gallardo Joined: Nov 2003
Posts: 11,328
Likes: 345
From: Jacksonville, FL (originally from Toronto Canada)
Frankly, I'm not sure. With my big hands, I would run the wiring as necessary first and tie it up someplace out of the way underneath until ready to connect it. You might want to ask in the manual transmission section since I'm sure that others have done this kind of swap and would have a better idea of how much space there is to work around.