I see products like those 4211 kill switches, but its a total scam as the box he sends with it has nothing inside and all the other stuff is not needed.
I'm curious which spot to solder the positive wire to in our 4-pronge relay switches for either the starter or the fuel pump.

Thanks if you know.

 

The starter relay won't do anything on a running engine. Think about that for a moment

For an FPR, just interrupt pin 85 or 86 and the relay coil is de-energized

 

For a non-electrical guy........how do I interrupt one of those pins using an on/off toggle switch while the car is left parked, off and unattended?

That company 4211 sends us a Type 1 relay like ours with a wire soldered somewhere inside and it works. I just don't know where to solder that wire. I took the top of the relay switch off but have no isea whats what.

 

Super simple "kill switch" would be to add a circuit interrupt button or toggle switch in-line on the neutral safety wire...just needs to be hidden

 

Whats the neutral safety wire....?

What does it kill?

 

Neutral safety wire goes to a switch that if NOT made, will not allow the car to start. It's a safety so you can't start in gear.

Like these new cars where you can't start or shift from park unless foot it on the brake.

Like anything though...IF they want it, there are other ways.

 

Ok. Can you tell me what your idea entails? Where does this wire get connected to and what parts are needed?

I found a YouTube video last night of perhaps the easiest way I’ve seen so far. Not using the big starter/relay. But pulling one of the small 15a fuses from the STARTR port. Splitting the two prongs and soldering each to the appropriate wires and plugging them into the START port. Done.

O was gonna do this today. But let me know what the Neutral Wire method is.

 

Well, yeah, that's an incredibly ghetto-looking way of doing it. Or you could just add the interrupter switch AFTER the fuse, and keep your fuse box looking normal.

The neutral-safety switch should be inline with that circuit, so you wouldn't need to go under the hood to add the extra switch.

 

yea, doesn't look the greatest, but does the job. But yes....I prefer to do it your way to leave the fuse box factory looking.

You mean leave the fuse in the port as-is. Then go underneath the fuse box where the two wires come out of that STARTR fuse port and tap into the positive wire with my on/off switch....and I will not need to add a fuse on the positive wire....?

I never removed that fuse box, i'll have to see how to get it out and flip it over to see the wiring.

ok, so i can put a neutral-safety switch on this same STARTR fuse port? I'm not understanding how it's attached compared to the on/off toggle I was going to use.

If its easier than your first idea i'll do it.

Does it stop the STARTR from engaging while the car is in PARK....?

 

I was thinking a button would be easier to hide... in console, under dash near column, ETC.
Dorman 84822 Dorman Push-Button Momentary Switches | Summit Racing

 

You could just get an RF key fob with receiver and wire it per instructions

 

I have a bag of these. I’m gonna put it under the carpet in a place that never gets touched, so it’ll be 100% invisible. I’ll know where to push. This switch stays in, flush when closed circuit. Button out when open circuit.

 

Best way I think is the way I diagrammed it in post #7. Why? If the switch ever breaks it will require me to stand there and do some wiring work to get the car started. The way in the diagram, if the switch breaks, I pull them out and pop a spare fuse in and start the car in 15 seconds. Then later replace the bad switch.

As far as it looking ghetto.....Yes, but I'm the only person that will ever look at my fuse box so thats not an issue. I have a Medeco keyed, fully hardened steel hood lock so nobody can ever pop my hood to disable anything. Installed that 27 years ago on this car.

I just need to get 14 guage copper wire and solder it to the switch with an inline fuse for the positive wire. Thats it. And a company makes a plug thats made to pop in there as a dummy fuse that you can solder your own wires to and it actually looks pretty good.

 

You know, if they really want your car, it would be pulled onto a skid truck and hauled away. its happened at shows and events during the show. not one single person questioned the alarms going off or the skid trucks driving away

 

That’s why I already have an Apple AirTag in it, which may sound funny but I removed the speaker inside so either they’ll get a message that it is around them and leave, or they won’t know and it’ll tell me where the car is. Also, it has a GPS real time tracker with cell signal back up. I’ll be alerted if the car moves from any parked location.

But I think I’m going to have the Compustar Smartphone alarm with GPS Tracking installed. Because I have no alarm right now except the factory horn beeping alarm. the alarm i installed 25 years ago hasen't worked in 10 years.

So it’ll be set up. And it already has a hood lock so the hood cannot be opened unless you have the Medeco key. So they can’t cut my battery or smack the horn with a hammer to shut it up or kill power. The new siren will be installed and of course have battery back up with Compustar if they somehow reach up to cut power from underneath.

I think it’ll be pretty much Un-Stealable. Flat bed might take it but they will be caught pretty fast.

Car is garaged every night at my house so that cuts down a theft event by a huge amount.

I see those old style wrecker trucks driving around sometimes, the ones that grab your car in 15 seconds and they drive away. If that happens they’ll have a siren going off and police and/or myself in a car heading towards them.

 

Thieves will need to develop a car cover that kills GPS and cell signals from going in/out…….to be able to steal cars that are properly equipped. put it on a flat bed and bring it to a bay somewhere and start working on it.

But then flat beds with cars with covers might get pulled over and checked out by cops all the time....so....

I want the separate kill switch in case someone……somehow, can reproduce my Compustar remote and simply disarm everything. Or if I drop/lose my keys with the remote attached somewhere like the mall, grocery store, car show, etc.....they can;t go outside and look for my car and take it. They can disarm compustar but they cannot start the car. then the GPS is waiting for the car to move to gicve an alert.

I’ll just leave the current GPS tracker inside and have a back up live tracker in addition to the Compustar. They’ll think they disabled Compustar and they’ll be tracked in real time.

 

Alternate solution: Drive a rusty 20 year old truck with bowling ball size dents, cracked windshield, and 3 different-colored body panels.

 

with a TT 427ci LSX under the hood built by NRE……gladly.