700 to spend and get better sound, need suggestions
#1
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well my Z got t-boned, but the good news i got 1k to play with for my pain and time. anyway, i have a few hundred 6-7, and am thinking a new HU and a set of the alpine door speakers and maybe a 10" bazooka tube (it has its own amp and i think would save me some money). does this sound good to the audiophiles and how bout some HU suggestions.
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go to www.etronics.com and look around for the best prices. I bought 4 alpine speakers for the front and rear from them for 100 bucks. Crutchfield has good service and they include all of the wiring and installation kits, but their prices are significantly higher. You'll probably need an amp too for your alpines.
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I think that the biggest improvement would be seen with replacing all four speakers (forget the hatch speakers) with some aftermarket coaxials (the Alpines are nice) then powering them off a nice 50 to 100 x 4 RMS amplifier, using the stock head unit with a line output converter. You will have to run new speaker wire however. The factory monsoon amp is a no-holds barred distortion box. I agree with ddelallata about etronics.com. Did some research for ya on some recommendations:
amp: http://www.etronics.com/product.asp?stk_code=jblgto754 (nice clean JBL
speakers: http://www.etronics.com/product.asp?stk_code=sousst65&store=&catid=358
wire: http://www.knukonceptz.com/productDetail.cfm?prodID=KOLAK44
Line output converter (NE-774V): http://www.davidnavone.com/adaptor_products.htm
Total (incl. estimated shipping): Line output converter: $40.00
JBL GTO75.4 amp: $250.00
SoundStream SST6.5 $85.00
SoundStream SST6.5 $85.00
4 Gauge Amplifier Installation Kit $45.00
GRAND TOTAL: $505.00
This is a solid system with plenty of power. Makes sure the speakers are installed solidly, and some MDF baffles might have to be made for them. (especially the rear) Set the gain on both the LOC and the amp carefully.
Maybe you might want to install some sound deadening before you run the wiring, so add another $100-$150 to that, and you are at your target price.
Hope I could help.
amp: http://www.etronics.com/product.asp?stk_code=jblgto754 (nice clean JBL
speakers: http://www.etronics.com/product.asp?stk_code=sousst65&store=&catid=358
wire: http://www.knukonceptz.com/productDetail.cfm?prodID=KOLAK44
Line output converter (NE-774V): http://www.davidnavone.com/adaptor_products.htm
Total (incl. estimated shipping): Line output converter: $40.00
JBL GTO75.4 amp: $250.00
SoundStream SST6.5 $85.00
SoundStream SST6.5 $85.00
4 Gauge Amplifier Installation Kit $45.00
GRAND TOTAL: $505.00
This is a solid system with plenty of power. Makes sure the speakers are installed solidly, and some MDF baffles might have to be made for them. (especially the rear) Set the gain on both the LOC and the amp carefully.
Maybe you might want to install some sound deadening before you run the wiring, so add another $100-$150 to that, and you are at your target price.
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Last edited by Snootch; 11-10-2004 at 11:13 AM.
#4
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THANKS MAN! thats what i call a reply, i would like to stay w/the fact. HU for a clean look and it really does what i want it to , play CD's . i listen to some off the wall music, some of it cant even be found on XM, so i usually listen to cd's. i just wanted something that has a good (in the car) bass feel to it and has clean highs. they dont have to hear me coming down the block.
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Your welcome... The system above is pretty good, but will be lacking in the sub-bass range. Later down the road (or skip the sound deadening) you could add a powered subwoofer (like the Bazooka you mentioned) and you would be all set. Set the crossover on the amp to 100Hz high pass, and the crossover on the Bazooka to 80Hz low-pass, and it should sound great.
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The idea is good, but there is two problems with doing that.
1. the cavities in the body behind the rear speakers are not airtight. A subwoofer needs this, unless it's a "free-air" type of sub. I haven't ever seen a 6.5" "free-air" sub. Sealing that cavity is a royal pain, the whole inside of the cavity needs to be fiberglassed, and it ends up being a big expensive mess.
2. having subs in the mid/passenger area of the car reduces the cabin gain advantages netted when a sub is relocated into the hatchback. I have a single 12" in the hatch of my car, and it sounds like a pair of 15"s. You can expect a gain of +3 dB just by having subs in the hatch. The system I recommended is a great improvement from stock. However, the best sound quality is to be found using high power to the front doors, high quality component speakers up front in the kick panels, and a sub in the back. The reason for only speakers up front is because when you go to a concert, all the music is in front of you on the stage. Sure, ther'e reflections coming from behind, but the front is usually going to drown it out. If you want to research a true sound quality system, I suggest visiting both the www.fbodyaudio.com and www.carsound.com forums.
1. the cavities in the body behind the rear speakers are not airtight. A subwoofer needs this, unless it's a "free-air" type of sub. I haven't ever seen a 6.5" "free-air" sub. Sealing that cavity is a royal pain, the whole inside of the cavity needs to be fiberglassed, and it ends up being a big expensive mess.
2. having subs in the mid/passenger area of the car reduces the cabin gain advantages netted when a sub is relocated into the hatchback. I have a single 12" in the hatch of my car, and it sounds like a pair of 15"s. You can expect a gain of +3 dB just by having subs in the hatch. The system I recommended is a great improvement from stock. However, the best sound quality is to be found using high power to the front doors, high quality component speakers up front in the kick panels, and a sub in the back. The reason for only speakers up front is because when you go to a concert, all the music is in front of you on the stage. Sure, ther'e reflections coming from behind, but the front is usually going to drown it out. If you want to research a true sound quality system, I suggest visiting both the www.fbodyaudio.com and www.carsound.com forums.
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would i gain anything by using the alpines everyone talks about (10$ more) thanthe ones you linked me to, or will it just boil down to pers. preference?
thanks, i am ordering in th enext couple of days.
sorry about the typos, jsut got home and i am typing impaired LOL
thanks, i am ordering in th enext couple of days.
sorry about the typos, jsut got home and i am typing impaired LOL
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If you use the amp I linked you to, the Soundstream speakers will be louder, since they use 3 ohm voice coils. Also, they have a larger frame and magnet assembly, and they will take a lot more RMS power.
Look at the specs on the Soundstreams: http://www.soundstream.com/sub/produ...tarantula.html
Look at the specs on the Alpines:
http://iweb.alpine-usa.com/pls/admn/...in=10&p_more=y
Sensitivity: (how sensitive the speaker is to power, measured in dB at 1 watt of power, @ 1 Meter away, higher # is better) Alpine: 87dB, Soundstream: 90dB
RMS power handling: (Higher is better) Alpine: 40 watts RMS, Soundstream: 120 watts RMS
Both have a swivel capability on the tweeters. (tweeter can swivel to point at the opposite-side listener)
Weight: (Usually is an indicator of how solidly the motor structure is built, However the Alpines have a cast aluminum basket) Alpines: 3lbs, 5oz., Soundstreams: 12 lbs just for the magnet!
Impedance: (the "resistance" the speaker "shows" the amplifier. The higher the impedance [lower #] the more power the amp will put out [depends on amp])
Alpines: 4 ohm, Soundstreams: 3 Ohm (according to my math, the JBL 75.4 will put out 123 watts RMS into each Soundstream speaker, right at it's power handling limits. With the Alpines, it would put out 104 watts RMS, which is way too much. Even if you were careful with the gains and the volume control, the life of the speaker would be shortened)
I could go on, but to make serious sound, you want serious power. The JBL amp can do this for you. Looking at the specs, the Soundstream speakers are great with use of a powerful amp. If you can't afford an amp, and have to use the sucky Monsoon power, then the Alpines probably are the best route to take.
Look at the specs on the Soundstreams: http://www.soundstream.com/sub/produ...tarantula.html
Look at the specs on the Alpines:
http://iweb.alpine-usa.com/pls/admn/...in=10&p_more=y
Sensitivity: (how sensitive the speaker is to power, measured in dB at 1 watt of power, @ 1 Meter away, higher # is better) Alpine: 87dB, Soundstream: 90dB
RMS power handling: (Higher is better) Alpine: 40 watts RMS, Soundstream: 120 watts RMS
Both have a swivel capability on the tweeters. (tweeter can swivel to point at the opposite-side listener)
Weight: (Usually is an indicator of how solidly the motor structure is built, However the Alpines have a cast aluminum basket) Alpines: 3lbs, 5oz., Soundstreams: 12 lbs just for the magnet!
Impedance: (the "resistance" the speaker "shows" the amplifier. The higher the impedance [lower #] the more power the amp will put out [depends on amp])
Alpines: 4 ohm, Soundstreams: 3 Ohm (according to my math, the JBL 75.4 will put out 123 watts RMS into each Soundstream speaker, right at it's power handling limits. With the Alpines, it would put out 104 watts RMS, which is way too much. Even if you were careful with the gains and the volume control, the life of the speaker would be shortened)
I could go on, but to make serious sound, you want serious power. The JBL amp can do this for you. Looking at the specs, the Soundstream speakers are great with use of a powerful amp. If you can't afford an amp, and have to use the sucky Monsoon power, then the Alpines probably are the best route to take.
Last edited by Snootch; 11-11-2004 at 07:16 PM.
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ok, ordered amp and speakers, my friend (installer or so he says LOL) says i can get all my install wiring at radio shack/wal mart/tech shops etc... and save shipping ? is this wise? i know i am killing you, but your the smart one here and i appreciate it!
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you could do that, as wire is wire, it's all copper, and will work. But, the kit I pointed you to at knukonceptz is only like $35-$40 bucks, and probably no more than $50 shipped to your door. You could get RCA cables from radio shack, white lamp cable for speaker wire from Home Depot, 4 Gauge power wire/ground wire and fuse/fuse holder from a local car stereo shop, and then pay tax on that. I think you might end up paying slightly more online, but the stuff online is much nicer.
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Originally Posted by golddot
your probably right, hell, i spent that much, 50 more, course that is A LOT OF BEER MONEY LOL!
11/28/4--- got my stuff friday, it looks very high quality, hope it sounds half as good as it looks. i am having installed this week, cant post pics, but the grille covers for the spkrs are shaped like a spyder, very cool!
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head to www.thezeb.com or www.cbrstereo.com if you want some deals on all your car electronics. ive done business with both and havent been disatisfied yet.
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Originally Posted by golddot
11/28/4--- got my stuff friday, it looks very high quality, hope it sounds half as good as it looks. i am having installed this week, cant post pics, but the grille covers for the spkrs are shaped like a spyder, very cool!
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