Best Amp For 2 12" Kicker Solo Barics L7's
#22
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Hector, forget the 1001bd. You would have to run the system in parallel, parallel. That is not a mistype. That would run the system at 1 ohm. Its not a horrible thing but you lose some sound quality, puts a large strain on the amp and makes it run hot. I found this for you on EBAY. It is perfect. 800watts RMS x1 @ 4ohms. Very stable and good unit. I've installed tons of these on cars running L7's, JLW6's and one that ran four
Alpine type R's. This amp runs $650 in my store. This one is new with a warranty from Mobile Pro's for $390 shipped and they have a good feedback rating.
http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll...sPageName=WDVW
Alpine type R's. This amp runs $650 in my store. This one is new with a warranty from Mobile Pro's for $390 shipped and they have a good feedback rating.
http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll...sPageName=WDVW
#23
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SStonlen I agree with some of what you say and some of it I don't. Distortion, no and yes. Heat, yes and slightly no if the amp is designed right.
Plus who said that 2 2 ohm coils lose power by staking 2 magnets?
Doubt my knowledge. Look here. Scroll throught most of the Physics stuff and read about distortion and SPL. It's towards the bottom.
https://ls1tech.com/forums/wiring-stereo-electronics/271152-quick-electronic-theory-ya.html
Plus who said that 2 2 ohm coils lose power by staking 2 magnets?
Doubt my knowledge. Look here. Scroll throught most of the Physics stuff and read about distortion and SPL. It's towards the bottom.
https://ls1tech.com/forums/wiring-stereo-electronics/271152-quick-electronic-theory-ya.html
#24
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trans_am_31. Look for a good quality (hense GOOD name brand) amp, in a Class D design that makes around 500 watts output in either a 4ohm load or is good to 1ohm load. That is the 2 ways you can wire up those 2 subs in a MONO configuration. SStolen is right about 2 amps. Not needed. Plus the 2 power supplies will generate extra heat and extra juice.
Let me see if I can Either export a drawing or find something on the net to show you this.
I noticed your somewhat close. I'll PM you with my # so I can walk you throught this.
Let me see if I can Either export a drawing or find something on the net to show you this.
I noticed your somewhat close. I'll PM you with my # so I can walk you throught this.
Last edited by Richiec77; 02-08-2005 at 12:34 AM.
#25
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Originally Posted by SStolen
Hector, forget the 1001bd. You would have to run the system in parallel, parallel. That is not a mistype. That would run the system at 1 ohm. Its not a horrible thing but you lose some sound quality, puts a large strain on the amp and makes it run hot. I found this for you on EBAY. It is perfect. 800watts RMS x1 @ 4ohms. Very stable and good unit. I've installed tons of these on cars running L7's, JLW6's and one that ran four
Alpine type R's. This amp runs $650 in my store. This one is new with a warranty from Mobile Pro's for $390 shipped and they have a good feedback rating.
http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll...sPageName=WDVW
Alpine type R's. This amp runs $650 in my store. This one is new with a warranty from Mobile Pro's for $390 shipped and they have a good feedback rating.
http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll...sPageName=WDVW
Sstolen,
Thanks, for the correct information. I will look into that amp right away.
Thanks, Hector
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#26
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Originally Posted by Richiec77
trans_am_31. Look for a good quality (hense GOOD name brand) amp, in a Class D design that makes around 500 watts output in either a 4ohm load or is good to 1ohm load. That is the 2 ways you can wire up those 2 subs in a MONO configuration. SStolen is right about 2 amps. Not needed. Plus the 2 power supplies will generate extra heat and extra juice.
Let me see if I can Either export a drawing or find something on the net to show you this.
I noticed your somewhat close. I'll PM you with my # so I can walk you throught this.
Let me see if I can Either export a drawing or find something on the net to show you this.
I noticed your somewhat close. I'll PM you with my # so I can walk you throught this.
Richiec77, That is some fascinating information. Like one of our friends in the forum said "MY Brain Hurts"
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#27
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By the way what were the fuse on that "SUPPOSED" 1800 watt amp? Also a pet peav of mine is that all amp manufactures rate Peak out put as double the RMS output. How can 0.707 "majically" become 1.414??????????????? (2 x 0.707)
No it can only go from 0.707 to 1 and only 1. 1 1 1 1 1 1
Damn That's marketing for you.
No it can only go from 0.707 to 1 and only 1. 1 1 1 1 1 1
Damn That's marketing for you.
#28
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Originally Posted by Richiec77
By the way what were the fuse on that "SUPPOSED" 1800 watt amp? Also a pet peav of mine is that all amp manufactures rate Peak out put as double the RMS output. How can 0.707 "majically" become 1.414??????????????? (2 x 0.707)
No it can only go from 0.707 to 1 and only 1. 1 1 1 1 1 1
Damn That's marketing for you.
No it can only go from 0.707 to 1 and only 1. 1 1 1 1 1 1
Damn That's marketing for you.
Richiec77, It was the Pyramid 1800 watts. I believe it had two 20 or two 15 fuses. The small car fuses. I swear they did nothing the speaker sounded allright for about 15 seconds, then poof the amp would overload or something like that. It would turn off by itself. Hector
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#29
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those L7s can handle alot more then 400 watts each. they are rated at 750 each. my vote is look for the JBL 1200.1. VERY underrated at 1200x1 at 1 ohm. when i had my 2 L7s i first ran a 1300x1 audiobahn amp, then switched to the JBL. the sound quality and pressure level improvement was amazing. and i got mine, for $200 plus shipping, and im sure you can find it for that price too. and it was in perfect condition. i love JBL. if you have any questions about the amp or you want some pictures of it in my car, PM me.
#30
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Originally Posted by qwikz28
those L7s can handle alot more then 400 watts each. they are rated at 750 each. my vote is look for the JBL 1200.1. VERY underrated at 1200x1 at 1 ohm. when i had my 2 L7s i first ran a 1300x1 audiobahn amp, then switched to the JBL. the sound quality and pressure level improvement was amazing. and i got mine, for $200 plus shipping, and im sure you can find it for that price too. and it was in perfect condition. i love JBL. if you have any questions about the amp or you want some pictures of it in my car, PM me.
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#32
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Here is a calculator for resistance. It will help you see what happens when you wire in different ways.
http://www.the12volt.com/caraudio/boxcalcs.asp
And I finnally found a diagram
And hers is the link.
http://www.sounddomain.com/shop/woof..._svc&x=147&y=7
http://www.the12volt.com/caraudio/boxcalcs.asp
And I finnally found a diagram
And hers is the link.
http://www.sounddomain.com/shop/woof..._svc&x=147&y=7
Last edited by Richiec77; 06-17-2008 at 03:25 PM.
#33
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Originally Posted by skindog39
alright, hey again. I for one love kicker's line. Those subs are AWESOME. You will be very happy with them. I'm not so sure on the mtx aps....i don't trust them......and jbl can be good.........i'd do the two mono amps though from alpine, you won't regret it....good luck!
I bought a new Kicker 1200.1 amp, thing was a POS. Returned it twice, and finally figured out the amp was a weak POS.
I had it running to a Eclipse Titanium 10" woofer, wired @ 2 ohms. This amp should have been pushing good power to the woofer, but it barely moved it. When I turned up the gain, I got distortion.
So I bought a 600.1 Xtant amp, which pushes 600 watts into 2 ohms, and it seriously increased the output of my woofer, with the gain on modest settings (no clipping)
my .02 on kicker's amps.
#34
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the older kicker ZR and XS series amps are excellent, expensive but u get what u pay for. as for the new ones i never used them so i don't know.
Christos.... i can't imagine that kicker amp being that bad....maybe the person u bought it from sold u a refurb, or maybe there was a bad batch of amps.
Christos.... i can't imagine that kicker amp being that bad....maybe the person u bought it from sold u a refurb, or maybe there was a bad batch of amps.