F-Body Rattle
#4
Well I just finished doing my install. Running 900 watts rms to a 10 inch sub. All Diamond Audio equipment. Not one rattle. I spent some serious time, 200 sq feet of edead, and some carpet padding, to do it though. 1 area to really concentrate on other than the rear area is in the compartments behind where the midwoofer goes. Deaden the hell out of that area and even stuff in something to fill it up or it will resonate bad and let in alot of roadnoise.
Hell when I shut my doors now it sounds like a whole other car.
Hell when I shut my doors now it sounds like a whole other car.
#5
Do you do anything to the hatch its self, or just the rear compartment/trunk area? Did you stuff the midwoofer areas with poly-fill? Also, is there any glass rattle, i remember in my old car the sunroof rattled bad if it wasnt open or covered. I don't have t-tops though.
#6
Originally Posted by shouldaboughttheZ
I have heard they do, mine doesn't as I do not have alot of bass. I hear the rear hatch panel rattles its *** off and the rear lights. But that is just what I hear.
Only if the wing nuts arn't tight on the lights or the bumper stops arn't set for the hatch. i have a 10" sub and from inside i can see the rear glass vibrate on bass hits. but outside you hear some bass but not much and no "trunk buzz"
#7
Originally Posted by spy2520
Do you do anything to the hatch its self, or just the rear compartment/trunk area? Did you stuff the midwoofer areas with poly-fill? Also, is there any glass rattle, i remember in my old car the sunroof rattled bad if it wasnt open or covered. I don't have t-tops though.
No glass rattle.
I used edead throughout the 2 chambers behind the midwoofer areas and stuffed them with the carpet padding. I also sealed up the holes with edead.
Pretty extensive project but it was worth it. Car is way quieter, doesn't rattle even when pushing the system pretty hard, and best of all. If you close the door while the system is turned up you can barely tell it's cranked.
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#8
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dynamat is your friend
I know what you mean about the rattle. I had 4 15s in a pretty small car without dynamat. The rattle was HORRIABLE. The top of my roof moved at least 5-6 inches (not an exaderation). Dynamat didnt solve the problem, but cut it down dramatically.
I know what you mean about the rattle. I had 4 15s in a pretty small car without dynamat. The rattle was HORRIABLE. The top of my roof moved at least 5-6 inches (not an exaderation). Dynamat didnt solve the problem, but cut it down dramatically.
#9
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Originally Posted by 2MuchRiceMakesMeSick
dynamat is your friend
I know what you mean about the rattle. I had 4 15s in a pretty small car without dynamat. The rattle was HORRIABLE. The top of my roof moved at least 5-6 inches (not an exaderation). Dynamat didnt solve the problem, but cut it down dramatically.
I know what you mean about the rattle. I had 4 15s in a pretty small car without dynamat. The rattle was HORRIABLE. The top of my roof moved at least 5-6 inches (not an exaderation). Dynamat didnt solve the problem, but cut it down dramatically.
Rob L
#11
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Originally Posted by Jpr5690
just velcro the tag down along with some screws that is the only major rattle mine has expirenced
#12
There is no rattle under the car either, right? My last car had serious rattle under the car at the trunk area. I think it may have been all that **** they have installed under there, the fuel vapor canister or something. No loose bolts, just natural frequencies i guess. Pissed me off though.
What is the best way to pinpoint rattles in the car, when the music is on its confusing.
What is the best way to pinpoint rattles in the car, when the music is on its confusing.