inline fuse
inline fuse hope this is in the right spot but it can be moved. i just moved my battery to the back and am using an existing 4g wire that was ran for a car stereo setup. it has an inline fuse holder and i just figured i could use it. so i put an 80 am fuse in it and as soon as i try to start it it pops the fuses. what is the problem. no breaks in the wire from front to back and as far as i can tell i dont see where it would be shorting out. any suggestions would be greatly appreciated
Launching!
Joined: Mar 2005
Posts: 257
Likes: 0
From: H-Town
From what I remember, the starter can and does draw upwards of 100+ amps when it STARTS to turn the motor - especially when cold. That's why there isn't a fuse in the factory line. I do NOT suggest running no fuse if you've got the battery in the back, but then I've never located the battery like this. Anyone? I guess if it were me, I'd go for a 150amp fuse, as that is the most it should need (going from memory here), but that fuse-holder should be by the battery - it does no good if it's up front and you short the wire between the battery and the fuse-holder.
Launching!
Joined: Mar 2005
Posts: 257
Likes: 0
From: H-Town
I'm **** about putting a fuse in everything - seen too many car fires not to. If you've got it, why not? Put it this way - if that wire were to heat up and melt, what could catch fire? Basically the whole car, right? If the factory cable (with the battery in front) heats up and melts, it really wouldn't do as much harm. Like I said, I'm kinda **** based on what I've seen, but plenty of guys with a whole lot more experience with fast cars than me do it without a fuse. To each his own, but consider the consequences and repercussions.
TECH Resident
iTrader: (3)
Joined: Dec 2002
Posts: 863
Likes: 0
From: Showing Italians the power of LS1
To do a 150A fuse you will have to upgrade the fuse holder to use an ANL wafer style fuse like this:
You probably are running a AGU barrel-style fuse like this, right?:
I think that the AGU style fuses are only made up to 80 or 90 Amps.
Also, you probably also want to upgrade that wire to a 1/0 Gauge, since that is at least a 20 foot run of wire. The voltage drop across 20 feet of 4 gauge wire is at least 2 volts, this means that your starter will only "see" 10 volts, not the 12 volts "seen" at the battery. Makes sure that the fuseholder is within 12" of the battery as well, and make sure that the ground cable between the battery/frame is the same gauge as the power cable.
You probably are running a AGU barrel-style fuse like this, right?:
I think that the AGU style fuses are only made up to 80 or 90 Amps.
Also, you probably also want to upgrade that wire to a 1/0 Gauge, since that is at least a 20 foot run of wire. The voltage drop across 20 feet of 4 gauge wire is at least 2 volts, this means that your starter will only "see" 10 volts, not the 12 volts "seen" at the battery. Makes sure that the fuseholder is within 12" of the battery as well, and make sure that the ground cable between the battery/frame is the same gauge as the power cable.
Last edited by Snootch; Apr 18, 2005 at 09:40 PM.
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Starters Can draw upwards of 1100 CCA. (Cold Cranking Amps). That is why fuses are not used in the 1st place. You should upgrade to atleast 2ga wire. The longer run needs a larger gauge wire because it has more internal resistance.
The best bet is to get some welding CABLE.
The guy's in the Drag Race Tech section recommend this cableing because it is in-expensive, flexible, and has a thick jacketting. Check out that section for more indepth info.
I'll leave this here because it does pertain to Electronics. Also feel free to ask some more wiring questions.
I'll dig up some info to help ya out.
The best bet is to get some welding CABLE.
The guy's in the Drag Race Tech section recommend this cableing because it is in-expensive, flexible, and has a thick jacketting. Check out that section for more indepth info.
I'll leave this here because it does pertain to Electronics. Also feel free to ask some more wiring questions.
I'll dig up some info to help ya out.
Battery Relocation
https://ls1tech.com/forums/showthrea...ery+relocation
Welding Cable
https://ls1tech.com/forums/showthrea...ery+relocation
Battery Cut-off
https://ls1tech.com/forums/showthrea...ery+relocation
And someones Work on relocating
http://community.webshots.com/album/259321832wYSRQL
Just search in Drag Racing Tech under the 3 above titles and you'll get a bunch of hits.
https://ls1tech.com/forums/showthrea...ery+relocation
Welding Cable
https://ls1tech.com/forums/showthrea...ery+relocation
Battery Cut-off
https://ls1tech.com/forums/showthrea...ery+relocation
And someones Work on relocating
http://community.webshots.com/album/259321832wYSRQL
Just search in Drag Racing Tech under the 3 above titles and you'll get a bunch of hits.
TECH Fanatic
Joined: Oct 2002
Posts: 1,648
Likes: 0
From: F.H,Waterford,Port Huron, MI
I have the battery in the back of my camaro. and where is what you need Taylor relocation kit,BMR battery holder, And run the wire super safe b/c I don't think you can fuse it as it draws ALOT. I am still trying to find away to do this with breakers.
But the Taylor kit is not expensive two coatings comes with fittings. and 4ga.
But the Taylor kit is not expensive two coatings comes with fittings. and 4ga.
Originally Posted by 2FAST4U
I have the battery in the back of my camaro. and where is what you need Taylor relocation kit,BMR battery holder, And run the wire super safe b/c I don't think you can fuse it as it draws ALOT. I am still trying to find away to do this with breakers.
But the Taylor kit is not expensive two coatings comes with fittings. and 4ga.
But the Taylor kit is not expensive two coatings comes with fittings. and 4ga.
