Voltage drop?
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Voltage drop? Sorry, i tried this same post in External Engine, but i think this might be a better place to post this question.
I have a 2002 WS6 with a Turbo Tech kit. This past summer i ran into an issue. When it's hot out, if i sit in traffic, the battery voltage slowly but surely starts to drop. I've seen it drop as low as 10.8 volts. Considering that it normally hoovers around 13.6-14.0 volts, it made me concerned. When the voltage drops this low, the car doesn't like to idle smoothly. I replaced the alternator, but that didn't correct the problem. Since the alternator is moved to the top of the motor on the TTI kit, i was under the assumption that maybe it was becoming heat soaked, which was causing the voltage to drop at idle. When i start moving, the voltage goes back to around 13.0 volts. My car is really only driven on the weekends, so it sits all week without being started. Any ideas as to what may be causing this problem? My next step was to replace the battery (i still have the stock AC Delco) and trying a red top Optima.
Everyone's insight is greatly appreciated!
Thanks!
Bob n Jax Fl
I have a 2002 WS6 with a Turbo Tech kit. This past summer i ran into an issue. When it's hot out, if i sit in traffic, the battery voltage slowly but surely starts to drop. I've seen it drop as low as 10.8 volts. Considering that it normally hoovers around 13.6-14.0 volts, it made me concerned. When the voltage drops this low, the car doesn't like to idle smoothly. I replaced the alternator, but that didn't correct the problem. Since the alternator is moved to the top of the motor on the TTI kit, i was under the assumption that maybe it was becoming heat soaked, which was causing the voltage to drop at idle. When i start moving, the voltage goes back to around 13.0 volts. My car is really only driven on the weekends, so it sits all week without being started. Any ideas as to what may be causing this problem? My next step was to replace the battery (i still have the stock AC Delco) and trying a red top Optima.
Everyone's insight is greatly appreciated!
Thanks!
Bob n Jax Fl
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Originally Posted by Daley
My first guess is that you might have a pulley?
Originally Posted by Daley
What's the car idling at?
Originally Posted by Daley
While at a stop and you notice the voltage drop, slowly increase the RPM's - at what point does it start to pick up again?
Strange thing is that the voltage only drops like this when it's hot out.
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Yeah, tell me about it. I figured that the internal regulator on the orginal stock alt was fried. Guess that wasnt the case. I'm going to take a look at the grounds, but they shouldnt be of any issue because the grouds havent ever been touched...heck, the car never even sees rain.
What's the red wire that plugs into the side of the alternator? 12v lead of some sort? I know that if it's not plugged in, the alternator doesnt charge. Hmm.... There are only two wires plugged into the alternator, right? One is screwed into the back and is about 8 guage wire. The 12v lead is about 16 guage? I hope that wire doesnt require too much current and only sends a 'signal' to the alternator to charge lol. This 12v lead wire has been extended by about 2 feet. I can't see this making much of a difference though.
any one else's thoughts?
What's the red wire that plugs into the side of the alternator? 12v lead of some sort? I know that if it's not plugged in, the alternator doesnt charge. Hmm.... There are only two wires plugged into the alternator, right? One is screwed into the back and is about 8 guage wire. The 12v lead is about 16 guage? I hope that wire doesnt require too much current and only sends a 'signal' to the alternator to charge lol. This 12v lead wire has been extended by about 2 feet. I can't see this making much of a difference though.
any one else's thoughts?
That wire is a referance for charging. It could be this wire, as it get's hot, starts to go intermittent, because of a bad joint, or bad wire.
Everything points to a heat induced charge problem. Alt is being ruled out from the swap so I'd say to check that wire AND Connector.
It's late and I'm high (prescription Percocets). Isn't there suppose to be 2 wires comming out from the Plug?
Everything points to a heat induced charge problem. Alt is being ruled out from the swap so I'd say to check that wire AND Connector.
It's late and I'm high (prescription Percocets). Isn't there suppose to be 2 wires comming out from the Plug?
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Originally Posted by 2FAST4U
Some local guy saw on the TTI kit the wiring problems. I would use your DVM and test connection after connection starting at the alternator.
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Launching!
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From: H-Town
Like Richie said, that small red wire is a reference wire, and goes thru the bulb in the dash. If it's not connected, it can fry the alternator (let's not get into how right now). I think what I'd do is (after checking all connections THOUROUGHLY) connect a temporary wire to that reference wire and run it inside to a volt-meter. This would give you some indication as to where to look when the system does fail.
P.S. Richie, how's that recovery goin?
P.S. Richie, how's that recovery goin?
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You are correct. TTI is an acronym for Turbo Technology Inc.
Can anyone tell me exactly where the small wire that plugs into the alternator goes and what it actually does?
I've figured out that it somehow allows the alternator to work. Without it being plugged in, the alternator never charges. At first i thought there may be an external regulator. Hmmm...And as there anywhere that i can buy a new plug?
maybe i can get a smaller guage wire, but that won't really help if the wire plugs in the the PCM.
Can anyone tell me exactly where the small wire that plugs into the alternator goes and what it actually does?
I've figured out that it somehow allows the alternator to work. Without it being plugged in, the alternator never charges. At first i thought there may be an external regulator. Hmmm...And as there anywhere that i can buy a new plug?
maybe i can get a smaller guage wire, but that won't really help if the wire plugs in the the PCM. Oh it's kind of shitty. Typing with one hand is a new trick, Percocet is definitly my friend, and my throat hurts. I think the Doc raped my neck and put a bandage on my hand.
Not off hand. I wish I was well enought to take a look.
Taking a more sober look at this I'd say it is DEFINITLY a heat related problem. The regulator is internal. The alt could not like the extra heat at all from the Turbo set-up. Does it happen faster if you have just ran the car for a bit?
Not off hand. I wish I was well enought to take a look.
Taking a more sober look at this I'd say it is DEFINITLY a heat related problem. The regulator is internal. The alt could not like the extra heat at all from the Turbo set-up. Does it happen faster if you have just ran the car for a bit?
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yeah it only happens when it's hot outside. I'm going to check out the L-Terminal (12v lead) that attaches to the alternator. Apparently i ran into a couple other people on LS1.com who've had the same issue. Thankfully i'm not alone lol
Originally Posted by 00ramair
yeah it only happens when it's hot outside. I'm going to check out the L-Terminal (12v lead) that attaches to the alternator. Apparently i ran into a couple other people on LS1.com who've had the same issue. Thankfully i'm not alone lol
I'm guessing the kit included an extension for the alternator. This is an F-body so I'm guessing the Alt relocation went from the lower D.S. to the Space where the EGR valve normally is.
How is the wire routed? Is it near a spot where extreme heat would hurt it?
Originally Posted by 2MuchRiceMakesMeSick
What are we using to test the voltage. I know your not using the inaccurate stock guages 
If your battery really was 10 volts, your car wouldnt start next time you tried to.
If your battery really was 10 volts, your car wouldnt start next time you tried to.
But, you are right that it would have a really hard time starting at that voltage.
That's a good question. Does this affect how the car starts? If not replacing your battery won't do anything at all.
I'm really sure (as much as I can be without looking at it) that the Wire is the problem. I've seen this before with both wiring and circuits.
well looks like im not the only one...
i am having this same problem.,........
anyone firgue out what it is???? my car is holding right around 12.9/13
i have gone over everything i cant figure it out!!!
i am having this same problem.,........
anyone firgue out what it is???? my car is holding right around 12.9/13
i have gone over everything i cant figure it out!!!