Vortec5300

As usual, I blew a sub on a TA monsoon system. I am wondering if it would be better to replace the 2 subs in the panels or remove them and install a sub in the rear qtr, with a stealth box or something comparable? I would think the 10" sub in the qtr would give much more base and probably cleaner sound but the simplicity of just slapping in new subs in the panels would be just as good. Not trying to win any sound contests, just a good sound with more base then stock that won't blow speakers when jamming with the T-tops off etc. I am a stereo dumb *** but I figured I could use the wires from the factory subs and run them to the new rear sub with a converter inline but...not sure. i will be keeping the monsoon HU and rest of the stock speakers until they blow so...not wanting to spend lots of money either and I will have all the work done. I haven't been to the audio shop yet so I figured I would ask you guys first. I am doing a search as we speak.


Thanks fellas

Richiec77

iTrader: (3)

Most definitly on the Single 10". The 2 6 1/2" Subs can never come close to making the same output the 10 would.

You will need a LOC (Line Out Convertor) to make a set of RCA to go to the Amp inputs. Then an enclosure, 1 10" sub, and the enclosure (box).

Check here to help get you jump started.

https://ls1tech.com/forums/wiring-stereo-electronics/303776-frequently-asked-questions.html

Vortec5300

Cool thanks for the tips. I am definetly thinking JL Audio 10" in a stealth box and a small amp for it. Then I guess I would just remove the 2 factory subs and use the wires from them with a LOC going to the new sub? or would I have to run new wires to the new sub from the amp, use a LOC between the amp and the monsoon HU? Excuse my audio ignorance but I usually have all this stuff done. I don't know the difference between 2 ohm/4ohm yada yada yada. How is it going to sound using a 10" sub which is usually lower base levels in place of the midbass subs? Lots of Disturbed and Metallica jamming out here so...

Vortec5300

Hey Ritchie, off topic but where did you get your 8.8" rear?

Richiec77

iTrader: (3)

Extreme Chasis. You might find them used on here, but not new from him.
Craig was a POS and I can't get a hold of him at all anymore.

I'm guessing you have seen the Sticky in the Rear section?

I've also seen a Guy in Canada who is going to/Has made his own also.


The 10" is a punchier sounding sub than a 12". For What you listen too, you are going to be wondering why you didn't add 1 sooner
You can add the LOC where you are talking about. It converts Speaker Wire output into RCA output.

For running a Subwoofer that size (10") you are deffinitly going to have to get an amp. Now you have a couple of options. 1.) buy them all seperatly (Amp, Sub, and Box/enclosure) 2.) get the Enclosure with a sub in it already (MTX and JL) and an Amp, or 3.) MTX makes an Enclosure that is loaded and Powered. It includes their Sub, Box, and an Amp. It might also have a built in LOC.

http://www.mtxaudio.com/caraudio/pro...sures/CF10.cfm

and they also have the install sheet online.

2MuchRiceMakesMeSick

I agree about the 10 and would even consider getting a 12"

Vortec5300

Went to a few audio places toda. They were all hacks trying to rip me off. Telling me the Monsoon is a total POS and not to waste time trying to patch it up but....I don't have the money to do a full system right now so.,. I have a blown tweet in the front and a blown mid bass sub in the middle. My plan was to 86 the two mid bass subs in the panels and stick a 10" in there but they are telling me it will wreak havok trying to do this with the monsoon headunit. Something about different cross overs doing different things yada yada. They say its possible but not worth it and its easier to just change head units, bypass all the monsoon **** and basically start over but....$$

Can I not just get a decent set of componets for the doors and stick em in using the factory amp and wires? They are telling me the factory stuff is 2ohm and all good componets are 4 ohm. Apparently this will work but will not sound that great and may not even be as loud as the stock speakers. WTF? Also asked about using LOCs for the sub and no one seemed to want to mess with it. I need to do something to repair this thing. I can't really even listen to it now cause of the blown mid bass so.. What about replacing the componets in the door, replacing the mid bass subs and using the factory HU and amp, running at 2 ohms and just let it rip and see what it does? Never knew this **** was this complicated. Believe it or not but I thought the Monsoon sounded pretty damn good until it blew the speakers.

Vortec5300

Well, an hour later I finish reading the 16 page mega novel by Rogue leader on speaker upgrades and it answered some of my questions but has prompted one more:

If I **** can the factory midbass subs and go with a 10" JL in a stealthbox and amp, or the equivalent, what all do I have to install to make it work with the factory Monsoon HU? Can I use the existing wires from the factory subs and go to the amp with them? Isn't that what the LOC is for?

Sorry about the questions but I gotta get my ride pimped again and I have read entirely too much for one day.

Vortec5300

BTW for sheer simplicity, I am going to replace my blown tweet with another OEM and leave the OEM door speakers and rear speakers in and running off the monsoon amp and HU, just like stock. My only variation from the stock Monsoon setup will be the 10" sub and its accompanying amp. Does this sound like a cost effective, simple setup that will give good sound? atleast until the factory speakers pop one after another. I am overall satisfied with the monsoon's sound aside from the horrible mid bass subs that fail..