splicing into accessory outlet??
Thread Starter
Joined: May 2003
Posts: 377
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From: Fairfax County, VA (You know you're here when you see the bad roads)
splicing into accessory outlet?? Hey guys,
I was thinking of splicing into the 12volt accessory outlet inside the car to run a radar detector so I can hide the wires. I wanted to wire it up in series so that I can still use the outlet for other things, like my phone charger. If I run two devices on the outlet at the same time will I blow a fuse? How much power is safe to draw through that circuit? Any input would be appreciated!
Thanks!!!
I was thinking of splicing into the 12volt accessory outlet inside the car to run a radar detector so I can hide the wires. I wanted to wire it up in series so that I can still use the outlet for other things, like my phone charger. If I run two devices on the outlet at the same time will I blow a fuse? How much power is safe to draw through that circuit? Any input would be appreciated!
Thanks!!!
On The Tree
Joined: Apr 2005
Posts: 111
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From: East Tennessee
I believe if you check the fuse block on the driver side of the dash, there might be a free 12 volt acc slot free. If you have a free one I would splice there and fuse it with the block. That would be easier and more reliable.
Joined: Nov 2003
Posts: 11,328
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From: Jacksonville, FL (originally from Toronto Canada)
There are three spare connections on the fuse box designed for aftermarket installations. One is battery fed (live all the time), one is ignition fed (live only when the ignition is on), and the third is accessory fed (live when on or during retained accessory power - like the radio). The ignition feed is probably the one you would want for a radar detector since you don't need a detector during the RAP interval.
i tapped into the cig lighter and mine is fine, i believe the radar detector amperage is significantly lower than the cig lighter fuse and i've never had any problems. all i ever use is my phone charger and judging by how good it charges, i dont think i'll ever have a problem, damn walmart.
On The Tree
Joined: Apr 2005
Posts: 111
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From: East Tennessee
Those slots that are empty are just not used. They just don't have a fuse in them. You would need to put one in to make them "live".
I would use the ignition space in the fuse block. just my 2cents
I would use the ignition space in the fuse block. just my 2cents
On The Tree
Joined: Apr 2005
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From: President of Sixpackistan
Originally Posted by iosigma
Those slots that are empty are just not used. They just don't have a fuse in them. You would need to put one in to make them "live".
I would use the ignition space in the fuse block. just my 2cents
I would use the ignition space in the fuse block. just my 2cents
How do you hook up stuff to the fuse box?
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On The Tree
Joined: Apr 2005
Posts: 111
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From: East Tennessee
You would have to remove the screws in the panel under the steering well I would guess and access the box from behind. I think that's how you would do it. I've only done it in other cars not a 4th gen camaro. Just use the fuseblock map inyour owner's manual to check for the right space. and you would get some new terminals from an autoparts store or radio shack. Or just t-=tao the wires leading up to it and add a fuse. I wouldn't add a fuse larger than your other acc outlets just to try to not overload the system. I'm guess this is how this would be done. If I were doing this this is the route I would take though.
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Verdad Gallardo Joined: Nov 2003
Posts: 11,328
Likes: 345
From: Jacksonville, FL (originally from Toronto Canada)
The most difficult thing about tapping into the fuse box is routing the wire to the front of the panel. Take the cover off the fuse panel (it's just held on with velcro). You will find a bolt holding the fuse panel to the dash. Remove the bolt and you will be able to twist the fuse box around so that you can run a wire around the side. Then just add a flat connector to plug into the IGN or ACCY slot and an inline fuse to protect the circuit.
If you think you might be adding other electrical accessories, you could do what I did - add a fused wire to each of the BATT, IGN, and ACCY terminals and run them to a convenient location behind the dash so that you'll have easy access for future installations.
There is no need to add any fuses to the fuse panel to activate the terminals - they are already live. They are terminals designed specifically for aftermarket accessory installation (they're not just openings with missing fuses). However, they are protected only by large capacity fuses and fusible links so you should always add an appropriately sized inline fuse to any circuit you install.
Although connecting to the cigarette lighter/power outlet wires will work, it will provide constant battery power so you will have to remember to turn off your detector when leaving the car. An ignition or accessory controlled circuit will turn on and off with the ignition so you don't have to worry about it.
BTW, you would want to hook it up in parallel (not series). Series would mean that you connect the ground (output) from one device to the power (input) of the next. Parallel is when you connect both devices to a common power source.
If you think you might be adding other electrical accessories, you could do what I did - add a fused wire to each of the BATT, IGN, and ACCY terminals and run them to a convenient location behind the dash so that you'll have easy access for future installations.
There is no need to add any fuses to the fuse panel to activate the terminals - they are already live. They are terminals designed specifically for aftermarket accessory installation (they're not just openings with missing fuses). However, they are protected only by large capacity fuses and fusible links so you should always add an appropriately sized inline fuse to any circuit you install.
Although connecting to the cigarette lighter/power outlet wires will work, it will provide constant battery power so you will have to remember to turn off your detector when leaving the car. An ignition or accessory controlled circuit will turn on and off with the ignition so you don't have to worry about it.
BTW, you would want to hook it up in parallel (not series). Series would mean that you connect the ground (output) from one device to the power (input) of the next. Parallel is when you connect both devices to a common power source.
