missing mid-range?
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Joined: Mar 2004
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From: ca
missing mid-range? OK, here is my setup:
alpine cda-9847 headunit
alpine SPR-17LS in the front.
alpine SPR-17LP in the sail panels
both powered by an almani ALC1180
In the trunk I have 2 jl audio 10w3-D4 subs powered by a niche audio NA1010E
And here is my problem:
It seems that i am missing a lot of midrange from my front components. If I play just the sail panel speakers, I get the full sound range, but with just the fronts there is this gaping 'hole' in the sound. I find this very annoying. I have tried playing with the filters on the amp, and tried adjusting things through the HU, but still there is this hole! Now, for the front speakers, I just tapped into the existing wire harness instead of re-running new, fatter wire like I did for all the other speakers. Also, the crossovers are in the doors, so I haven't tried adjusting anything on them yet, but from what I remember, they just allow a boost of tweeter signal level, nothing more. Would rewiring the fronts with a thicker gauge bring back the midrange? It is really wierd, because the fronts have plenty of bass and plenty of highs, it is just the mids that are missing. Any suggestions would be appreciated!
Thanks,
Jeff
alpine cda-9847 headunit
alpine SPR-17LS in the front.
alpine SPR-17LP in the sail panels
both powered by an almani ALC1180
In the trunk I have 2 jl audio 10w3-D4 subs powered by a niche audio NA1010E
And here is my problem:
It seems that i am missing a lot of midrange from my front components. If I play just the sail panel speakers, I get the full sound range, but with just the fronts there is this gaping 'hole' in the sound. I find this very annoying. I have tried playing with the filters on the amp, and tried adjusting things through the HU, but still there is this hole! Now, for the front speakers, I just tapped into the existing wire harness instead of re-running new, fatter wire like I did for all the other speakers. Also, the crossovers are in the doors, so I haven't tried adjusting anything on them yet, but from what I remember, they just allow a boost of tweeter signal level, nothing more. Would rewiring the fronts with a thicker gauge bring back the midrange? It is really wierd, because the fronts have plenty of bass and plenty of highs, it is just the mids that are missing. Any suggestions would be appreciated!
Thanks,
Jeff
Last edited by 88GTA; Aug 19, 2005 at 02:50 PM.
Thread Starter
12 Second Club
Joined: Mar 2004
Posts: 94
Likes: 0
From: ca
I have the crossover that came with the speakers at the default, +1db I think? On the amp, I had the speakers set for full range, but now I am cutting out the lows under 80hz. I am gonna rewire the components this weekend and move the crossovers out of the doors and under the dash, where i can adjust them as needed. I will try -1.5db and see how that sounds...
Thread Starter
12 Second Club
Joined: Mar 2004
Posts: 94
Likes: 0
From: ca
So, I rewired the fronts with all 16 gauge wire, moved the crossovers to the dash and turned them down to +0db (from +1db). I think turning the crossover down helped, but not so much b/c it increased the mids, it just made the tweeter/highs less bright... it'll take some time to get used to it, but so far i do think it sounds better. any other suggestions out there for missing midrange with components? would sound deadening help?
oh, i noticed when i reinstalled my speakers this time, that the plastic basket the woofers go in suck. GM only has three bolts holding them on, and they aren't evenly spaced. I could flex the basket with my hand easily, even after tightening down all the bolts. How do we fix this? is there aftermarket baskets available made of metal or stiffer plastic? would putting some deadening on the basket make it more rigid?
oh, i noticed when i reinstalled my speakers this time, that the plastic basket the woofers go in suck. GM only has three bolts holding them on, and they aren't evenly spaced. I could flex the basket with my hand easily, even after tightening down all the bolts. How do we fix this? is there aftermarket baskets available made of metal or stiffer plastic? would putting some deadening on the basket make it more rigid?
Make sure polarity is correct. Sometimes a speaker can have backwards lables for polarity. It puts one in Phase, the other out of Phase and they are firing directly at each other. Cancellation would be high.
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This is a common issue about speakers and EQ/X-overs being 180 out of phase
the simple way is to un hook one speaker and see if the mids reappear then swap the leads on the uplugged spkr
more ideas if needed
the simple way is to un hook one speaker and see if the mids reappear then swap the leads on the uplugged spkr
more ideas if needed
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