frey51

Are there any rca outputs on the stock monsoon headunit? I would assume so, since it already has an amp, or is it hooked up differently? If it is hooked up differently is it possible to utilze those connections on an aftermarket amp and hook it up to the stock hu?

Fry

methane

iTrader: (1)

there are no rca outputs on the factory radio or monsoon amp. but you could run high level inputs from the factory amp (located in the rear of the vehicle, pass side) if the amp your installing has them.

frey51

So if the amp I am going to get has 'high level inputs' I would be able to use the stock setup correct? Could anyone possibly tell me if the amp I am planning on getting has these.

These are the specs I found on aplpine.com
Alpine MRV-F450
General-Amplifiers
-Adjustable Crossover (HP/LP)
-Bass EQ Circuit
-Phase Selector
-Subsonic Filter
-5/4/3 Channel Operation
-Adjustable Crossover (HP/LP)
-Auto Overcurrent Protection
-Bass EQ Circuit
-Bass Engine®
-DC Straight Design
-DC-DC PWM Power Supply
-Discrete Pre-Amp Stage
-Gold Plated RCA Input Connectors
-Input Mode Selector Switch
-Integrated Wire and Mounting Screw Terminals
-MOSFET Final Outputs
-MOSFET Power Supply
-MultiMode
-Noise Elimination Coil
-One side Terminal Layout
-Phase Selector
-STAR Circuitry
-Solid Copper Bus Bars
-Subsonic Filter
-Top Mounted Blue LED Power/Status Indicator

Bass Engine®
-Crossover Network : 30Hz-200Hz HP / LP (12dB/oct)
-Subsonic Filter (Selectable) : 50Hz 0 - + 12dB
-Tuned Bass EQ (Variable) : (Ch5) 50Hz Off, 15Hz, 30Hz

-Dividing Network : 30Hz-200Hz HP/LP (12dB/oct)
-Foot Print (WxHxD)in : 11-13/16” x 2-3/8” x 16-1/2”
-Foot Print (WxHxD)mm : 300mm x 60mm x 420mm
-Frequency Reponse : 10Hz-50kHz (+0,-1dB)
-Heat Sink (WxHxD)in : 9-7/8” x 2-3/8” x 16-1/2”
-Heat Sink (WxHxD)mm : 250mm x 60mm x 420mm
-Input Impedance : 10k ohm
-Input Sensitivity (for rated power) : 0.2 V to 4.0V
-Power Requirements : 14.4V DC (11V to 16V)
-Signal to Noise (S/N) : 100dBA (referenced to rated power)
-Slew Factor : greater than 5
-Speaker Impedance : 4 or 2 ohms(stereo), 4 ohms(bridged)
-Weight : 6.2kg(13lbs. 11oz.)
-MAX Power (at 14.4V,EIAJ)

-Bridged 4 ohms : 240W x 2 + 370W x 1
-Per channel into 4 ohms : 90W x 4 + 370W x 1
-RMS Power (at 12V,20Hz-200Hz)

-Bridged 4 ohms : 80W x 2 + 150W x 1
-Per channel into 2 ohms : 40W x 4 + 150W x 1
-Per channel into 4 ohms : 30W x 4 + 150W x 1
-RMS Power (at 14.4V,20Hz-200Hz)

-Bridged 4 ohms : 120W x 2 + 200W x 1
-Per channel into 2 ohms : 60W x 4 + 200W x 1
-Per channel into 4 ohms : 50W x 4 + 200W x 1

If this amp dosnt have the capability to do this, what amps out there with similar power can do this?

Thanks
Fry

methane

iTrader: (1)

Unfortunately that amp does not have high level inputs. what your looking for in an amp is one that has, high level inputs or also known as speaker level inputs. Instead of using RCA plugs, you tap speaker leads into the factory wiring and run them to the speaker level input on the amp. if your looking to do a 4 channel amp and a sub, its best to go with two amps, instead of the 5 channel amp your looking at. A better setup may be The Alpine MRP-F240 as your 4 channel and the Alpine MRP-M350 as your sub amp.

frey51

I am trying to make my install as easy as I possibly can. My plan is to do my door and sail speakers first, then get my sub/amp so if I like the way my alpines play without the amp, I may only need the mrp-m350. Thanks for the help man, I appreciate it.

lo_jack

iTrader: (27)

What he has suggested about 2 amps instead of 1 is solid advice. Its barely more difficult or expensive to run two amps instead of one big one.

Whoever had my car before me used speaker level ins to do an mtx 10 in back, and because of that, all my speakers in the cabin are "rear" and the sub is "front," with no fading and no way to use my aftermarket deck's fancy tricks now that I put it in. Gotta redo the entire thing. You will ost likely have to do likewise, since there is no other way to get a signal to an amp with a stock HU.

If you never get rid of your factory HU then you may be happy with that. But if you ever get a new HU, you will be screwed, and have to do everything all over again.

good luck with the install

methane

iTrader: (1)

On the topic of keeping the factory headunit...many were skeptical at first when this idea was brought to the table…how could you possibly get good sound out of a factory headunit? I’ve been installing car audio for about 4 years now, and if you asked me 4 years ago if you could build a great system with a factory headunit I would have told you, your out of your mind. But the fact of the matter is the heart of your system is your amplifier. Your amplifier will give you clean, detailed sound, if matched with great speakers. People go out and buy these 300-400 dollar aftermarket headunits with all these features and never even use them. How many average customers know what a parametric equalizer is and if they did do they know how to use it? The industry is heading more and more in the direction of a complete stereo system off a factory headunit…more so now because of vehicles such as the Mazda RX8, Acura TSX, ect. Where the factory headunits cannot be replaced with aftermarket. High level inputs (speaker inputs) are just as effective as RCA connections…ever look at a pair of cheap RCA’s from radio shack or the Walmart amp kit special? They’re nothing more then speaker wire. Yes high quality RCA’s are shielded and provide better sound quality but I have put together some amazing systems running high level inputs. I was skeptical at first but my ears don’t lie. With vehicles being controlled now with so many computers and wires running in every direction it does make sense to run high quality RCA’s but if your budget is small or your stuck with your factory headunit you can still build an amazing system.

So how do you hook up a system using high level inputs you might ask?
This example is if you were to hook up a 4 channel amp for a factory headunit. (no factory amplifier)
Think of it this way, you go to the harness at your factory head unit or factory amplifier (where ever the signal from the radio to speakers is going) Lets say you have a factory headunit no factory amplifier. There are 8 wires coming off the radio harness for speaker leads…4 speakers….positive and negative on each. Cut the 8 wires leaving you enough to hook up both ends. Now you should have 16 terminated wires. 8 coming off the radio and 8 going to your speakers. The eight wires coming off your radio can now be run to the high level inputs on your amplifier. The other 8 speaker leads run to your speakers…so run those wires to the output on your amplifier. Run power, ground and remote turn on to your amp, and your in business.

If you were to just run a sub amps that accept high level inputs will require you to run a left rear and a right rear speaker lead. In this case, don’t cut your speaker signal, just tap off of it. And run your left rear and right rear signal to the amplifier and your output obviously to your sub.

Hope this helps.

frey51

Methane:

To get this straght I could use a little more input, now that you mentioned how to hook it all up I got confused. Since you seem like you know what you are talking about maybe you could help, here are my plans for my stereo:

(keep in mind that...The stock HU runs at 4 ohms and powers the front door tweeters and the rear hatch tweeters/mids. The stock amp located next to the spare tire runs at 2 ohms and powers the midbass for the front door speakers and the back seat speakers.)

First I will to put one set of the 6.5s in the doors, and obviously cut the wiring to put the tweeter off the head unit and the mid off the amp. Then I will put the other set in the sail panels, and use the wires that are already there for the mid. Then I will pull back the wires from the hatch speakers and use those wires for the tweeter. This will put my mid ranges on the 2 ohm stock monsoon amp, and my tweeters on the 4 ohm head unit.

After that goes in, if it sounds good which I think it will then I will be getting a Alpine SWR-1042D (10" TypeR) in a SubThump box, and the Alpine MRP-M350 amp (per your suggestion). If it doesnt sound good I will get a seperate amp for the 6 1/2's before I get the sub/amp, but I dont think that will happen.

Anyway, how would I hook this sub and amp up to the stereo if it is to be wired like I described above, while utilzing the stock amp?

Thanks
Fry

frey51

to the top for me, can anyone verify exactly how to hook up the amp/sub with the proposed setup

Thnx

ShadyPhi

iTrader: (9)

SEE MY POST ... THIS IS WHAT YOU NEED!

https://ls1tech.com/forums/lsx-parts-sale/371547-would-anybody-need-pac-oem-1-98-02-firebird-camaro-monsoon-stereo-system.html

This kit provides Pre-Amp RCA outputs so you can hook an amp to the stock HU, WITHOUT cuting/spilicing wires. 100% plug & play!

ShadyPhi

iTrader: (9)

Oh, the stock amp does NOT have RCA outputs, that's what this kit provides for you. (it also supplies the remote turn on wire)

methane

iTrader: (1)

sorry to confuse you there with all that...if you just looking to ad a sub amp to the factory radio i would suggest this...run your power, ground, amp turn on wire. for your speaker signal run 2 speaker wires from your monsoon amp i personally haven't installed a setup like this so i'm not 100% postive on which speaker leads would give you the best signal considering you have the monsoon amp. My guess would be to catch the signal at the rear speaker outputs at the monsoon amp

here are your wire colors:
Pin
F13 Red Right Rear speaker -
F14 Tan Right Rear speaker +
F15 Tan Left Rear speaker +
F16 White Left Rear speaker -

so tap your 2 speaker wires into these wires and run them to the speaker level INPUTS on your amp

I suppose you could use the subwoofer wire outputs on the monsoon amp i would just use trial and error to see what sounds best because the sub (the one your installing) is going to act differently when you start messing with the equalizer on the factory radio.

check out this site for the wiring colors for the monsoon amp.
http://www.houston-f-body.org/tech/m.../AmpCamaro.htm

hope this simplifies it...if not let me know.

phantomzer0

iTrader: (17)

dude you can just go buy a damn rca converter, you simply rig it up to your speakers and it makes an rca signal for you, it takes nomore than 20 min. and works like a charm.

heres some examples

http://www.installer.com/aux/
just scroll to the gm section

another
http://www.hifisoundconnection.com/S...id/0/SFV/30046

if you wanna find better prices just search for car audio rca converter

i did it in my firebird and used all the factory monsson stuff, it was pretty good, and it definatly works. this is a very minimal job.

black01_WS6

iTrader: (13)

I just used a rca converter, bass is good and it was cheap and anyone can do it.

frey51

Does the MRP-M350 also have rca inputs on it? becasue I think I am going to use that rca pac adapter that I just heard of. If not, is the MRD-M605 a good amp for this type R

ShadyPhi

iTrader: (9)

Sent you a PM

methane

iTrader: (1)

its cheaper my way, cause all you need is speaker wire and you acheive the same results, but...do what you'd like.