Show your Sub/Amp setup
#121
Originally Posted by richieg
No overheating problems. & yes the amps are in the new seat using the stock leather. Looks just like stock, nobody would know they were in there if they were not told.
Last edited by Josh_101; 01-10-2006 at 09:19 PM.
#122
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Originally Posted by Josh_101
Man you gotta show me some detail on this, I'v been out looking at my rear seat, and I cant see how they'd fit unless you cut out the back of the seat rest to make them fit.
#123
Originally Posted by richieg
I promise you my way was the most low-tech way imgaginable, so it's easy to do. I didn't use the stock piece because it wasted too much space between it's rounded shape & bracing. I used plywood to make a new back, sides, & face. It was put together using little wood nails & wood glue. After it was together I coated the outside in one layer of fiberglass to add some strength. I went heavy on the resin since the wood is so assorbant which is good in this case. I used the factory mounting brackets to hold it all in place. The face is held on with just two screws. I went to the local fabric store and got some foam and cut it out to shape. And that's pretty much it. just take a good look at the pictures, and they hopefully speak enough for themselves.
#129
It sounds pretty good I like it especially it doesn´t vibrate the s... out of my car it is solid and hard hitting. The subs are Chrunch Fatboy DS12E so 2 12`s 400 rated and I think close to 900-1000 watt max each. I like the bass hitting in the back. I puts the rear mirror down about 1/2 inch but not vibrating.
#131
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Here's my old setup:
It was mainly built for stealth. The EPX2 has since been replaced with a Alpine PXA-H701 and the headunit has been replaced with a PC. Here is a new proposal I'm working on.
I'll probably use steel tubing to make an amp rack across the front of the sub enclosures and bolt it into the sail panel speaker locations. So far I plan to mount a Rockford Power 1100a2 for the subs in the middle of the rack, a 225.2 for the front stage and another 225.2 on either side to balance it out. That second 225.2 will probably power a sub in the passenger foot well area. I'm going to experiment and see how that sounds. So that is 2600w RMS, but I'm going to run the amps at less than max for around 1600w. That should get the job done.
Amps will look something like this. Once I get the big one in I'll take an actual picture of them all together instead of a PS stitch job.
If anyone is interested in large back seat systems, I started a thread here:
https://ls1tech.com/forums/wiring-stereo-electronics/585731-anyone-put-subs-amps-back-seat-have-big-system-there.html
There are some threads here for 15's and even 18's in the back of f-bodies.
http://www.fbodyaudio.com/cgi-bin/ya...l?board=fbboom
It was mainly built for stealth. The EPX2 has since been replaced with a Alpine PXA-H701 and the headunit has been replaced with a PC. Here is a new proposal I'm working on.
I'll probably use steel tubing to make an amp rack across the front of the sub enclosures and bolt it into the sail panel speaker locations. So far I plan to mount a Rockford Power 1100a2 for the subs in the middle of the rack, a 225.2 for the front stage and another 225.2 on either side to balance it out. That second 225.2 will probably power a sub in the passenger foot well area. I'm going to experiment and see how that sounds. So that is 2600w RMS, but I'm going to run the amps at less than max for around 1600w. That should get the job done.
Amps will look something like this. Once I get the big one in I'll take an actual picture of them all together instead of a PS stitch job.
If anyone is interested in large back seat systems, I started a thread here:
https://ls1tech.com/forums/wiring-stereo-electronics/585731-anyone-put-subs-amps-back-seat-have-big-system-there.html
There are some threads here for 15's and even 18's in the back of f-bodies.
http://www.fbodyaudio.com/cgi-bin/ya...l?board=fbboom
Last edited by JasonWW; 11-19-2006 at 12:38 PM.
#133
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With all of you guys spending thousands upon thousands of dollars... how are you keeping it concealed during every day driving and what security measures are you doing to keep your stuff from getting ripped out of the car with a crow bar?
I'm asking cuz my daily beater was broken into recently and the guy took stupid stuff but it still totaled $400+
-B
P.S. On a side note I have some sick pictures of a system my buddy had in his 97 RS.
I'm asking cuz my daily beater was broken into recently and the guy took stupid stuff but it still totaled $400+
-B
P.S. On a side note I have some sick pictures of a system my buddy had in his 97 RS.
Last edited by Blown383; 12-06-2006 at 01:08 PM.
#134
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Originally Posted by Blown383
With all of you guys spending thousands upon thousands of dollars... how are you keeping it concealed during every day driving and what security measures are you doing to keep your stuff from getting ripped out of the car with a crow bar?
I'm asking cuz my daily beater was broken into recently and the took stupid stuff but it still totaled $400+
-B
P.S. On a side note I have some sick pictures of a system my buddy had in his 97 RS.
-B
I'm asking cuz my daily beater was broken into recently and the took stupid stuff but it still totaled $400+
-B
P.S. On a side note I have some sick pictures of a system my buddy had in his 97 RS.
-B
#136
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It may just come down to where you live and the places you visit . I've never had any of my vehicles broken into.
This new idea of mine will be really high profile so I was thinking I could just throw a black blanket over the top most of the time. Dark window tint also helps.
Blown383, where was your car at the time and what where the conditions?
This new idea of mine will be really high profile so I was thinking I could just throw a black blanket over the top most of the time. Dark window tint also helps.
Blown383, where was your car at the time and what where the conditions?
#137
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Originally Posted by JasonWW
It may just come down to where you live and the places you visit . I've never had any of my vehicles broken into.
This new idea of mine will be really high profile so I was thinking I could just throw a black blanket over the top most of the time. Dark window tint also helps.
Blown383, where was your car at the time and what where the conditions?
This new idea of mine will be really high profile so I was thinking I could just throw a black blanket over the top most of the time. Dark window tint also helps.
Blown383, where was your car at the time and what where the conditions?
THe guy took my mp3 player, phone charger, and had time to go into my trunk and steal the Bazooka bass tube along with some tools.
The car looks like a total pile of crap but it still got broken into!
Once th Z28 is up and running....Im going to be totally paranoid about it either getting stolen or broken into.
-B
#138
If your state permits, then go w/darkest tint available. Not only does it protect the system from UV and fading, but also you cannot see into the rear hatch area.
Other than my modified dash, one would never know
Other than my modified dash, one would never know
#139
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My theory is that crappy looking cars tend to get no respect and crooks don't feel bad about trashing one. They also probably don't think the owner will go through the trouble of tracking them down or put a beat down on them as the owner doesn't even care about the car.
When you have a nice, sharp, well maintained vehicle a thief walking by knows he could suffer more serious consequences if he gets caught inside. He knows the owner will call the cops and the risk is much higher.
At least that's my theory. Plus you have different kinds of thiefs. I think you got hit by the turd burgler. Low level crook who chooses vehicles by convience and opportunity. You also got higher level crooks that are more brazen and will target certain vehicles. Even follow them to see where the owner lives. These are the worst ones and whos radar you want to stay off of.
I would do the more obvious things first, such as not blast the stereo when looking for a parking place. Keep the car parked in high visability areas or where there is a lot of people traffic. Avoid the big stealing places such as malls and movie theaters. Only show people you trust your big sound system. Park the car under security camaras. Get one of those paging alarm systems. You can also get a lojack in case it's ever taken. Make sure your sound system is covered by your insurance and whatever else you can think of.
When you have a nice, sharp, well maintained vehicle a thief walking by knows he could suffer more serious consequences if he gets caught inside. He knows the owner will call the cops and the risk is much higher.
At least that's my theory. Plus you have different kinds of thiefs. I think you got hit by the turd burgler. Low level crook who chooses vehicles by convience and opportunity. You also got higher level crooks that are more brazen and will target certain vehicles. Even follow them to see where the owner lives. These are the worst ones and whos radar you want to stay off of.
I would do the more obvious things first, such as not blast the stereo when looking for a parking place. Keep the car parked in high visability areas or where there is a lot of people traffic. Avoid the big stealing places such as malls and movie theaters. Only show people you trust your big sound system. Park the car under security camaras. Get one of those paging alarm systems. You can also get a lojack in case it's ever taken. Make sure your sound system is covered by your insurance and whatever else you can think of.
#140
Doesn't hurt to have a SECOND alarm system either, as I have both the GM and Viper system.
Generally speaking, even if you don't have an alarm system, those little red/or blue blinking idiot lights can sometimes deter thieves, since they'll think it is part of the alarm system.
Generally speaking, even if you don't have an alarm system, those little red/or blue blinking idiot lights can sometimes deter thieves, since they'll think it is part of the alarm system.