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Old Oct 29, 2005 | 11:46 PM
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Whats the best thing to do to minimize the rattling caused by subs? I had some subs and got rid of them. Im getting some more soon but the last ones I mainly got rid of because of all the rattling. Im wantin some back but want to reduce the vibration/rattling? By the way, Im probably gettin Solo s12L7's
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Old Oct 29, 2005 | 11:58 PM
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Sound deading material.
http://www.dynamat.com/
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Old Oct 30, 2005 | 12:08 AM
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Thanks. Think Ill have enough air space/box space for solo 12's?
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Old Oct 30, 2005 | 12:27 PM
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Dynamat will take care of alot of the rattling. Also the location and position of the subs have an effect on rattling. And you should be OK for space.
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Old Oct 31, 2005 | 08:19 PM
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wheres the best position?
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Old Nov 1, 2005 | 12:34 PM
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i dont think there is a 'best' position. But try and have the sub box in a place were the air can move freely. (ie. facing the front or side of the car) That way the vibrations wont be bouncing of your hatch/trunk. Move the box around till you are satisfied with the sound.
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Old Nov 3, 2005 | 02:44 AM
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Dynomat for the most part, like on panels that vibrate. The other fix the shops don't tell you is moleskin. Go to a hobby shop and get the moleskin that has an adhesive on one side. Put it between the seams that rattle against each other that dynomat wont stop. I use the stuff in 80k worth of cars.. just because it's cheap doesn't mean it wont work..
-JC

Last edited by ALPINE; Nov 3, 2005 at 04:18 PM.
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Old Nov 3, 2005 | 10:19 AM
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dynamat is WAY overpriced. Second Skin makes great products but there are others that do well too. Check this out: http://www.sounddeadenershowdown.com/
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Old Nov 3, 2005 | 11:52 AM
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www.raamaudio.com

Accept NO substitute. Rick is a stand up guy, and is a great contributor to many forums.

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Old Nov 4, 2005 | 06:25 PM
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I used phat mat and have no rattles besides my sail panel area from the speakers there because I didn't have enough to cover those areas, will be doing it soon though. But no other rattles inside or out with a jl 10W6v2 and a kicker kx600.1.
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Old Nov 4, 2005 | 09:45 PM
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i certainly agree with raammat although second skin is very good.

if you've got a hatch, then the best way (in terms of raw cabin gain) is subs up port forward, aka the famous crx box. but the enclosure alignment is certainly more important
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Old Nov 5, 2005 | 12:53 AM
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Originally Posted by 98Redta
wheres the best position?
Not really a best position. Its best to put a layer under the carpet and then crank the bass up and find out where it rattles up top.


Originally Posted by 98Redta
Thanks. Think Ill have enough air space/box space for solo 12's?
You said "12's" so I assume you mean two?
If it were me I would get one in the right airspace with plenty of power.
They are very power hungry woofers.

http://www.kicker.com/05/tech-suppor...r%20Manual.pdf
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Old Nov 5, 2005 | 01:58 AM
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i don't understand what makes them power hungry
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Old Nov 6, 2005 | 03:14 AM
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They require alot of power to get moving.
Strong electrical resistance (voice coil windings, magnet resistance, etc...) and stiff mechanical resistance(surrounds, spiders, cone density, etc...)

Sure you can put 100 watts on one, but to really get them to come alive you need more.
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Old Nov 6, 2005 | 04:37 PM
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Originally Posted by 2MuchRiceMakesMeSick
They require alot of power to get moving.
Strong electrical resistance (voice coil windings, magnet resistance, etc...) and stiff mechanical resistance(surrounds, spiders, cone density, etc...)

Sure you can put 100 watts on one, but to really get them to come alive you need more.
their efficiency is really not that bad, nor is the mechanical resistance that bad either. they have a relatively flexible spider, but i would never buy an L series for the pure fact that despite their large sd due to the square cone, their xmax is terrible. of course, in a ported enclosure at tuning this is not such a big deal and the motor force is relatively strong, but i have had issues in the past with poor tinsil leads and blow voice coils with non-clipped signals below rated RMS. this is not even mentioning the natural 2nd and 3rd harmonic distortion from the square shape
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Old Nov 6, 2005 | 06:00 PM
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I ended up going with 2 12" ample audio subs, a power acoustik gothic 1200 watt amp, a new JVC head unit, and new door speakers/tweeters. Sounds awesome. Costed about 900 bucks installation and all. Thanks for the advice guys! Ill get some pics later.
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Old Nov 6, 2005 | 07:06 PM
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my buddy had 1 10 inch L7 downfiring with 400 watts of kicker power and it was very loud to me...love that Kicker ****...matter fact kicker is closing out their old **** on Ebay almost free..

J
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Old Nov 6, 2005 | 08:08 PM
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Originally Posted by Punk0Rama
their efficiency is really not that bad, nor is the mechanical resistance that bad either. they have a relatively flexible spider, but i would never buy an L series for the pure fact that despite their large sd due to the square cone, their xmax is terrible. of course, in a ported enclosure at tuning this is not such a big deal and the motor force is relatively strong, but i have had issues in the past with poor tinsil leads and blow voice coils with non-clipped signals below rated RMS. this is not even mentioning the natural 2nd and 3rd harmonic distortion from the square shape


87.4 db 1watt 1meter is pretty in efficient.
xmax is about the same as other subs in its class.
ive never seen any tinsel problems. As long as you stay within the linear excursion of the sub and have it in the right air space you should be ok. If my memory serves me correctly the L7s wove the tinsels in and out of the spider. This ensures that no matter how far the speakers throw is, it will never harm the VC bobbin.
Nothing is 100% distortion free. Even your car can create distortion.
Bottom line is just get what you like or what sounds best to you.
Kicker makes a great sub but they need a good deal of power to really perform.
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Old Nov 6, 2005 | 08:52 PM
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This thread reminds me how old I am...we used to use roof shingles and adhesive 25 years ago.
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Old Nov 6, 2005 | 09:54 PM
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Originally Posted by 2MuchRiceMakesMeSick
87.4 db 1watt 1meter is pretty in efficient.
xmax is about the same as other subs in its class.
ive never seen any tinsel problems. As long as you stay within the linear excursion of the sub and have it in the right air space you should be ok. If my memory serves me correctly the L7s wove the tinsels in and out of the spider. This ensures that no matter how far the speakers throw is, it will never harm the VC bobbin.
Nothing is 100% distortion free. Even your car can create distortion.
Bottom line is just get what you like or what sounds best to you.
Kicker makes a great sub but they need a good deal of power to really perform.
87.4db at 1w at 1m is really not that bad, particularly when you consider that a lot of other companies inflate their own sensitivity ratings by rating them at 2.83V.

it's true, nothing is distortion free. but any sub that is not round is going to create more distortion than a round sub would. for those who aren't **** about sq like i am, that may not be a big deal. but for me, it is
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