Window stuck!
Thread Starter
Joined: Sep 2004
Posts: 2,447
Likes: 6
From: Grand Junction, CO / Tomball, TX
Window stuck! Has anyone had this problem and if so what was the fix? So when you push the drivers side window button up or down it will move sometimes. It doesn’t always move when you push the button. I replaced the motor and it moved like I said every now and then but eventually it stopped moving. I tried for several hours to get it work. Checked the old and new motor in my roommates car and both of the motors work, the new one being much faster though, so its not the motors. I checked the connector that plugs up to the switch and it seems to be fine. I believe it is some electrical problem but where do I start tracing it?
TECH Enthusiast
Joined: Sep 2005
Posts: 717
Likes: 0
From: Georgetown, DE
I'm assuming you made sure the window itself was not binding.
I found this wiring diagram for the power windows. It's for a '95 Firebird. But I doubt it has changed since.
http://shbox.com/1/pwr_window_schematic.jpg
I like to start at the end of the line.
1. At the motor's harness connector, use an ohmmeter to check for continuity between the two pins. If open, check each pin for continuity to chassis ground. If neither A nor B is connected to ground, check for ground at pin A on the switch connector.
2. Use an ohmmeter and check for continuity across the switch from pin A to pins D and E. With the down button pressed, you should see a short across pins F and E. With the up button pressed, the short should be across pins F and D.
3. With key-on/engine off, put a voltmeter accross pins F and A on the switch harness connector. You should see +12VDC.
4. With key-on/engine off, put a voltmeter accross the 2 pins of the motor's harness connector. When you press the up button you should read either +12VDC or -12VDC depending on the polarity of the meter leads. When you press the down button you should see the opposite voltage.
I'm not sure where the Express-Down module is located. Under the dash somewhere, I presume. If you have a good ground, and the switch checks out good, this is probably your culprit.
I found this wiring diagram for the power windows. It's for a '95 Firebird. But I doubt it has changed since.
http://shbox.com/1/pwr_window_schematic.jpg
I like to start at the end of the line.
1. At the motor's harness connector, use an ohmmeter to check for continuity between the two pins. If open, check each pin for continuity to chassis ground. If neither A nor B is connected to ground, check for ground at pin A on the switch connector.
2. Use an ohmmeter and check for continuity across the switch from pin A to pins D and E. With the down button pressed, you should see a short across pins F and E. With the up button pressed, the short should be across pins F and D.
3. With key-on/engine off, put a voltmeter accross pins F and A on the switch harness connector. You should see +12VDC.
4. With key-on/engine off, put a voltmeter accross the 2 pins of the motor's harness connector. When you press the up button you should read either +12VDC or -12VDC depending on the polarity of the meter leads. When you press the down button you should see the opposite voltage.
I'm not sure where the Express-Down module is located. Under the dash somewhere, I presume. If you have a good ground, and the switch checks out good, this is probably your culprit.
Last edited by HiTechGent; Nov 7, 2005 at 06:30 PM.
On The Tree
Joined: Nov 2005
Posts: 113
Likes: 0
From: Hastings, NE
Does your window move normal and then slow to a stop or does it move normal and stop? If it moves normal and then slows you either have a poor connection/high resistance electrical problem or your window is dragging in the guides. If it is dragging try using some WD-40 or equivilent to lube the guides. The slides that mount your window to the regulator might also need greased. If it is not the guides you will have to get an ohm meter and measure the resistance in the wires. If your roomates car is a 98-02 camaro or firebird try swapping switches. I can't think of much more without more information. Does it only stop at a certain point and not go any further up or down?
On The Tree
Joined: Nov 2005
Posts: 113
Likes: 0
From: Hastings, NE
Does it only stop at one point or does it stop and then after a few minutes can you move further in the same direction. If so what is the direction? It kinda sounds like your motor is drawing too much amperage and trips a circuit breaker, but i can not think of any breakers in that circuit.
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Thread Starter
Joined: Sep 2004
Posts: 2,447
Likes: 6
From: Grand Junction, CO / Tomball, TX
no it stops at different places, at different times. Its not the switch's, i check those. I will figure it out this weekend, thanks for the replys!
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TECH Senior Member
Joined: Apr 2004
Posts: 6,157
Likes: 1
From: Texas
Ive seen this problem before.
It is because the window motor is about to go.
Let the motor cool down for a few hours.
Then pull the glass in the same direction it would go if the window where trying to roll up. (with the door open)
All this will do is roll the window up. To fix the source of the problem go to auto zone and get a simmens window motor and get it replaced.
It is because the window motor is about to go.
Let the motor cool down for a few hours.
Then pull the glass in the same direction it would go if the window where trying to roll up. (with the door open)
All this will do is roll the window up. To fix the source of the problem go to auto zone and get a simmens window motor and get it replaced.
Thread Starter
Joined: Sep 2004
Posts: 2,447
Likes: 6
From: Grand Junction, CO / Tomball, TX
Originally Posted by 2MuchRiceMakesMeSick
Ive seen this problem before.
It is because the window motor is about to go.
Let the motor cool down for a few hours.
Then pull the glass in the same direction it would go if the window where trying to roll up.
All this will do is roll the window up. To fix the source of the problem go to auto zone and get a simmens window motor.
It is because the window motor is about to go.
Let the motor cool down for a few hours.
Then pull the glass in the same direction it would go if the window where trying to roll up.
All this will do is roll the window up. To fix the source of the problem go to auto zone and get a simmens window motor.
Must be a different problem. I had the stock motor with this problem so I went to auto zone and purchased the seimens motor, it still does the same problem with the new motor. The motor is still god though. Both motors are good so its not a motor problem, its electrical. It acts like a flashlight, when the battery is going dead, it will gradually get dimmer then go out. The motor gradually slows down then stops.
Originally Posted by PSYKOZ28
it moves normal then stops.
Thread Starter
Joined: Sep 2004
Posts: 2,447
Likes: 6
From: Grand Junction, CO / Tomball, TX
Its not the switches. I have put several new switches on it and the same problem happens. Quick6GN I will try what you are saying hopefully this weekend. Thanks guys.
Teching In
Joined: Jul 2005
Posts: 48
Likes: 0
From: Andover, MN
I have the same exact problem. If it turns out to be the wiring please let us know, because i was going to order a new window regulator tommarow from a friend that works at friendly chev but if it is the wire problem it would be better than spending 120 bucks on a window regulator!
TECH Enthusiast
Joined: Sep 2005
Posts: 717
Likes: 0
From: Georgetown, DE
IS there any difference in behavior when the engine is on or off? If it acts worse when the engine is off, then I'd agree with the wiring being the culprit.
If it is the wiring, it is more likely because of chafing or a poor connection somewhere. No way would they use wire spec'd below the circuit breaker rating of 15 amps. So it is not the wire size. 16 gauge will carry 15 Amps all day long. And I'll bet if I looked, I'd find the motor wires were actually 14 or 12 gauge.
If it is the wiring, it is more likely because of chafing or a poor connection somewhere. No way would they use wire spec'd below the circuit breaker rating of 15 amps. So it is not the wire size. 16 gauge will carry 15 Amps all day long. And I'll bet if I looked, I'd find the motor wires were actually 14 or 12 gauge.
