Will these work? Alpine Type-S SPS171A
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From: Greensboro, NC
Will these work? Alpine Type-S SPS171A Alpine Type-S SPS171A
Will this component set work for the front door? I currently want to use the factory amp, sail panel speakers, and rear speakers. I have an Alpine CDA-9833 head unit. I blew one of the door speakers and want it fixed pretty soon. I was originally going to do a whole system upgrade, but ran into financial issues. And yes, I've read and read the sticky and many different search results. It seems that no matter the subject, some say one thing and somebody else says another.
I am basically wanting to know if this setup would plug and play or not? If not, what would I need to do for it to work or is there a better quick fix?
Will this component set work for the front door? I currently want to use the factory amp, sail panel speakers, and rear speakers. I have an Alpine CDA-9833 head unit. I blew one of the door speakers and want it fixed pretty soon. I was originally going to do a whole system upgrade, but ran into financial issues. And yes, I've read and read the sticky and many different search results. It seems that no matter the subject, some say one thing and somebody else says another.
I am basically wanting to know if this setup would plug and play or not? If not, what would I need to do for it to work or is there a better quick fix?
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From: Greensboro, NC
Do you mean bypass the amp for the fronts? I have no problem running new wire if it'll help. The local audio shop said that the head unit could power the components, but it wouldn't sound as good as the original speakers. They could just be trying to conjure up some business though.
before i had an amp for my fronts, i ran new wire to the speakers in the door fromt he deck.........they sounded like *** from stock amp
and they are partially correct, those speakers need more than the 20 watts (or so) rms from the deck, but it is still in the power range
and they are partially correct, those speakers need more than the 20 watts (or so) rms from the deck, but it is still in the power range
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From: Greensboro, NC
The deck puts out 26 watts rms. I'm sure that's peak rms though. The speakers need 50 watts rms to work nominally. Will this even sound as good as the stock speaker setup? If not, I may have to look further for speakers. I don't want to completely waste the money for now.
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Launching!
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From: Greensboro, NC
Do you think it's worth getting this setup to hold me off until I can amp them? Again, I'm trying to stay in the 200 or less range and not have to worry about the speaker blowing again in the near future. I actually like the stock setup for daily driving, but I've replaced enough sail panel speakers to drive someone nuts.
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TECH Enthusiast
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From: Georgetown, DE
Originally Posted by NBM7278
Do you mean bypass the amp for the fronts? I have no problem running new wire if it'll help. The local audio shop said that the head unit could power the components, but it wouldn't sound as good as the original speakers. They could just be trying to conjure up some business though.
If you hook them up directly to the head unit, It should sound just fine. The midbass freq's just won't be as loud at the same volume setting as it would running thru the amp. And if the rear channel is still amped, you'll have to adjust the fader forward to compensate.
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Launching!
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From: Greensboro, NC
Alright, is this correct then.
Alpines straight from the head unit or from the amp with the crossover
Either one would work then? Once I get the door panels off, it'd be easy enough to try both ways and see what sounds better. As long as they'll work, then I'll probably go ahead and place an order for them this weekend.
I understand the theory of crossovers (I work in electronics/engineering with radio frequencies), but I haven't actually had to hook them up before.
Alpines straight from the head unit or from the amp with the crossover
Either one would work then? Once I get the door panels off, it'd be easy enough to try both ways and see what sounds better. As long as they'll work, then I'll probably go ahead and place an order for them this weekend.
I understand the theory of crossovers (I work in electronics/engineering with radio frequencies), but I haven't actually had to hook them up before.
Launching!
Joined: Mar 2005
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From: Chicago
You guys making this too complicated... Why run new wire if only the HU and door speakers are being replaced.
Get rid of the monsoon amp. Find a wiring diagram for the fat 32 connector harness, and just jumper the appropriate wires so they loop thru the harness. The factory wiring is quite sufficient to handle the power output of a HU.
Get rid of the monsoon amp. Find a wiring diagram for the fat 32 connector harness, and just jumper the appropriate wires so they loop thru the harness. The factory wiring is quite sufficient to handle the power output of a HU.
Thread Starter
Launching!
Joined: Jun 2005
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From: Greensboro, NC
Haha, complicated is an understatement for most car audio (if you're a newbie to it all).
Here's a quick question to add to the list...
I keep reading about the infinity 2 ohm speakers. Most of the people talking about it are the camaro owners though. On my bird, would they be better for the front replacements or not?
Here's a quick question to add to the list...
I keep reading about the infinity 2 ohm speakers. Most of the people talking about it are the camaro owners though. On my bird, would they be better for the front replacements or not?
