BCM bypass for door locks???
09-07-2006, 08:50 AM
#41
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Yep, it's semantics, I just got stuck on writing white/purple, but it's purple with a white stripe. Just to make sure, I tried putting the original BCM back in, left that harness unplugged under the steering column. The security light was on, and the car wouldn't start. I then plugged it in and it was all good.
I'm going to order the JCWhitney unit right now and hopefully that does the trick.
Was I right using the resistors by twisting the ends together assuming that two 100 ohm units yields 200 ohms? two 100 ohm units and one 4.7k would yield 4900 ohms? (I'm just throwing out random numbers not necessarily combos I tried)
I'm going to order the JCWhitney unit right now and hopefully that does the trick.
Was I right using the resistors by twisting the ends together assuming that two 100 ohm units yields 200 ohms? two 100 ohm units and one 4.7k would yield 4900 ohms? (I'm just throwing out random numbers not necessarily combos I tried)
09-07-2006, 09:14 AM
#42
If you connect resistors end-to-end (so current flows first through one then through the other) then the total resistance is the sum of the resistor values. This is called "in series". Two 100 ohm resistors in series produce 200 ohms (R = 100 + 100).
However, if you connect resistors to each other at both ends (so that current flows through all of them at the same time) then the inverse of the total equals the sum of the inverse of the values ( 1/R = 1/R1 + 1/R2 + 1/R3... ). This is called "in parallel". Two 100 ohm resistors in parallel produce only 50 ohms (1/R = 1/100 + 1/100).
However, if you connect resistors to each other at both ends (so that current flows through all of them at the same time) then the inverse of the total equals the sum of the inverse of the values ( 1/R = 1/R1 + 1/R2 + 1/R3... ). This is called "in parallel". Two 100 ohm resistors in parallel produce only 50 ohms (1/R = 1/100 + 1/100).
09-07-2006, 09:20 AM
#43
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That's what I thought. Let's say I wanted to net 200 ohms. I connected two 100 ohm resistors end to end, then connected one end to the purple/white wire and the other end to the white/black wire
09-11-2006, 01:56 PM
#45
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Am I suppossed to wait a certain amount of time between trying resistor values, since the idea is that without the proper key chip it shuts things down for 5-10 minutes?
09-18-2006, 10:51 AM
#46
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Got the autopass from JCWhitney today. Do I need to hook up the ignition wires since I'm not using remote start? My car is an M6, but now that I'm in Indiana, I might have to hook it up. Winters are brutal here.
The schematics are as follows:
Red - 12 volt constant (I can probably find one)
Orange - Passlock wire computer side - (purple/white)
Black - Ground
Green - Ignition 2 in vehicle (Says white or pink/white at switch???)
Blue - Vehicle's ignition wire (???)
White - Passlock wire key side (thin white wire in orange shround opposite of purple/white)
Violet - Ground when running from remote start (???)
Grey - Passlock ground wire (tie into the other thin white wire in orange shroud and the white wire that runs along side the purple/white wire)
The schematics are as follows:
Red - 12 volt constant (I can probably find one)
Orange - Passlock wire computer side - (purple/white)
Black - Ground
Green - Ignition 2 in vehicle (Says white or pink/white at switch???)
Blue - Vehicle's ignition wire (???)
White - Passlock wire key side (thin white wire in orange shround opposite of purple/white)
Violet - Ground when running from remote start (???)
Grey - Passlock ground wire (tie into the other thin white wire in orange shroud and the white wire that runs along side the purple/white wire)
09-18-2006, 11:38 AM
#47
You should only need the red, black, orange, and white wires connected unless you're installing a remote starter as well. There are two ignition wires because one is for the ignition and the other is for accessories such as HVAC (which is the most common reason to use a remote starter).
The violet wire may have to be grounded because it sounds like it's a trigger that would normally be connected to the remote starter. The remote starter would provide ground on that wire to trigger the bypass but still retain normal VATS operation when not remote starting. Since you can't use normal VATS operation you may have to permanently ground that wire to have the bypass work all the time.
I have no idea what you would need the gray wire for - the VATS system doesn't need to be grounded anywhere.
The violet wire may have to be grounded because it sounds like it's a trigger that would normally be connected to the remote starter. The remote starter would provide ground on that wire to trigger the bypass but still retain normal VATS operation when not remote starting. Since you can't use normal VATS operation you may have to permanently ground that wire to have the bypass work all the time.
I have no idea what you would need the gray wire for - the VATS system doesn't need to be grounded anywhere.
09-18-2006, 07:11 PM
#48
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So, half the wires listed in teh autopass instructions don't exist in the wiring harness!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
Furthermore, I Don't know what happened but the damn "new" bcm kicked off the factory alarm and I have no way of kicking it off to get anything done. Pretty sure I"m going to have to bite the damn bullet and buy a new bcm
Furthermore, I Don't know what happened but the damn "new" bcm kicked off the factory alarm and I have no way of kicking it off to get anything done. Pretty sure I"m going to have to bite the damn bullet and buy a new bcm
09-22-2006, 09:14 AM
#50
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New bcm went in last night, wired it all back to stock, she fired right up and the door locks work!!!!!!!! Damn, looking back at it, I wish I hadn't wasted so much of my time working on it, and your time too and went for that right off the bat. Thanks again for all your help. It's so sweet to have a car that starts and doors that lock!!!
09-22-2006, 09:19 AM
#51
You're welcome, I'm glad you got it working. I agree with you that sometimes it's better to spend a little extra and get the problem solved quickly - after all, how much is your time worth? I know I'd rather be driving my car than fixing it. 
09-22-2006, 10:51 AM
#52
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My time is def. worth a lot more than the money I spent on a new BCM. I just didn't expect it to take that long, ya know. But at least I can say I learned a ton through the process, plus there's a complex thread for others to learn from too.
