Ok my amp is drawing some massive power under load and my current stock alt isnt keeping up. I need a hi-ouput. The choice is the HO GM at 160 amps for $220. I have a 99 Camaro by the way.
delivered or a 200 amp alt for $380. I have an underdrive pulley so its already in the hole to begin with.

 

I recommend calling Nathan over at Excessive Amperage. If I remember, my 200A alternator was about $270.00. EA's alternators "cut-on" at barely above idle, and supply lots of current. His 200 amp alt puts out 100 amps at idle and 200 amps when the engine hits 900 RPM. The case that he uses is a factory GM case, and it will bolt right in. Here's his website: http://www.excessiveamperage.com/
and here's a thread on fbodyaudio.com detailing my and other's experiences: http://www.fbodyaudio.com/cgi-bin/ya...4885255;start=

**MODS: I'm posting EA's link because no sponsors carry HO alternators**

 

Sent an email, thx for the link.

 

What's the total output of your amps?

I got a 100 amps worth of fusing on Memphis stuff and my stock charging setup doesn't even blink the lights at idle.

Just noting might have some problems elsewhere before dropping all that coin on an alt.

 

600rms. Its ok as long as I dont turn it up to far past half way.

 

Seems kinda funny to me. The Memphis is right at 600 rms but 400 of that is class D.

Still, I get nothing at all. Even full volume at idle I got no light hit. Maybe give your wiring a looksee unless that 600rms is terribly under-rated.

 

http://www.4alterstart.com/

Only place I've ever seen that prints you out a spec sheet of the alternator. Shows you it's test output power. Pretty impressive and guarentees them for 2 years.

 

Its sounds like you may need a lightning cap! It helps the alternator from taking a beating.

 

1 Fared Lightning Capactior, I guess I could have explained it clearly before.
sorry about that!

 

a waste of money. If the alternator can't keep the battery charged, how is it going to charge the cap.

All your doing now is putting on more strain on the electrical system. The alternator is the best solution. Factory alternators are 102, 105 or 130 amps for the f-body. Simply not enough power for any high powered system. Those things put out like 15-20 amps at idle.

 

Go to any car audio ethus. and they will tell you to get a cap. without my cap my system was cranking 11 volts, with the cap I was hitting 13 volts. Here is what I found:

Capacitors
Your car amplifier is just one of several components competing for the available power in your vehicle. For this reason, we suggest adding a stiffening capacitor to your car's electrical system. A capacitor (cap) is like a power reservoir delivering current upon demand. A cap is recommended for all medium-to-high power systems.

 

don't post that at any car audio forums... you'll get flamed pretty good and pretty quickly... it's well know that a cap does not increase the voltage in your system.... if you do go ask anyone with any real knowledge here is what they will say in order...

1.) upgrade your big 3
2.) make sure all your connections are 100% good
3.) move your ground to a different point
4.) upgrade your battery
5.) upgrade your alternator

a cap doesn't do anything to fix a problem in all reality... it can however MASK the problem and in that respect it's very much like sticking meth injection on a forced induction setup that needs an intercooler...

it's always better to fix it right the first time then to just mask the problem and get by...

 

oh on a sidenote I have a 1,500 rms amp on my sub and I have no issues with any dimming until I really hammer it... stock alt and stock battery....

 

get an alternator, its a good investment if your gonna be hammering your system. Im going with a 200 amp as I will be running about 2200 watts rms, but I dont plan on beating the **** out of my speakers. Im also running a Batcap which is similar to a fast charging/discharging battery. Ive seen my friend run his whole car off a batcap for about 12 minutes when his alternator took a crap and his battery was dead, he was also listening to his system at a decent volume too.

 

upgrade to a 250 if you can. Trust me on this one. When your running the vehicle at night with the lights, etc. Make sure it runs a good output at low rpms.

I have a 275amp in mine, the biggest I could get from www.4alterstart.com for an fbody. They give you a 2 year warranty. And it puts out 167 amps at idle and at 2k rpms, it's 95% of it's output. The 2k rpm is what your car can rev too at the competitions. I'm pushing about 3200 watts. It's going to go up to around 3500+, need to replace the 4 channel, more bass than highs, lol. I also run two yellow tops and no caps. A good deep cycle battery will give you constant same voltage output. Caps are a marketing gimick and a show item. There's really no need for them anymore in my opinon.

4alterstart is the best alternator I've seen so far. I hear other companies are making 300 amp alts for the fbody. But I don't know if I would trust them. 4alterstart is the only alternator I've seen that comes with a performance sheet of the alternator your buying.

 

watch out... because MOST 250A alternators put out LESS than our stock alternators (at idle.)


the CS130D casing is very limited.... anyone here swap to a CS-144 yet?

 

wicked dont think I'm arguing with you or not listening to you but I ordered one already. I just emailed him to see if I can up grade it to a 250 or 300 and am waiting to hear back. Someone else had sent me to Excessive Amperage. I thought he said it was rated at 160 at 900 rpms and I forget the top end. I already had paid for it before you posted so I'll see what happens.

 

cool, if your upgrading, they will do it. Excessive amperage, I heard it's not a bad company. The only thing I like about that site I refered to you is because it's the only site I've seen that actually gives you out a bench rating on the alternator. Kind of like you getting a birth sheet from the amp companies. The same thing they do, it's 2 pages and very detailed. It's pretty cool, so I know what the alternator will do, not just by their word.

I give you an example. If I said this amp puts on 1500 watts at 12.5V. How many would really check it? It could be a marketing. So at least I know what I'm buying. I haven't heard anything bad about them. Trust me, when you go to compete, you will try to idle the car more, because you will want more power. I think that is the company that makes the 300 amp alternator. The only one so far. I'm sure they will take care of you.

 

That was my problem.... I'm always hammereing it.
unless the wife is in the car...

 

I think you'd go deaf before you got to the point where you'd actually stress the stock alternator and battery...

if you're sitting outside the car... that's different..