Dynamat install suggestions
Do the doors at a minimum, makes a huge difference in how solid they feel when closing them and how it blocks out road noise. I did it a little different.
I put Dynomat on the inside of the door skins:
And then I covered the door with a Cascade brand trunk kit and left off the stock plastic sheet:
I also went a little farther and did the whole hatch area with Dynomat:
Made a huge difference. Go as far as you want. The only thing holding you back is expense and the added weight. Do yourself a favor and buy some sort of roller to press the Dynomat down as you go.
I put Dynomat on the inside of the door skins:
And then I covered the door with a Cascade brand trunk kit and left off the stock plastic sheet:
I also went a little farther and did the whole hatch area with Dynomat:
Made a huge difference. Go as far as you want. The only thing holding you back is expense and the added weight. Do yourself a favor and buy some sort of roller to press the Dynomat down as you go.
Originally Posted by HavATampa
Do the doors at a minimum, makes a huge difference in how solid they feel when closing them and how it blocks out road noise. I did it a little different.
I put Dynomat on the inside of the door skins:
And then I covered the door with a Cascade brand trunk kit and left off the stock plastic sheet:
I also went a little farther and did the whole hatch area with Dynomat:
Made a huge difference. Go as far as you want. The only thing holding you back is expense and the added weight. Do yourself a favor and buy some sort of roller to press the Dynomat down as you go.
I put Dynomat on the inside of the door skins:
And then I covered the door with a Cascade brand trunk kit and left off the stock plastic sheet:
I also went a little farther and did the whole hatch area with Dynomat:
Made a huge difference. Go as far as you want. The only thing holding you back is expense and the added weight. Do yourself a favor and buy some sort of roller to press the Dynomat down as you go.
It's really not bad doing the inside of the doors.....as long as you have long skinny arms. 
The big square hole on the right side and the speaker opening on the left are plenty big enough to maneuver the sheets. You can't use full size sheets of course, but a little overlap and a small wooden roller are all you need. It's much easier pulling the backing off before you put the sheets in the door. Just fold the sheets in 1/2 and insert them. It made a huge difference as far as how solid/heavy the doors feel when closing them and how much it blocks road/traffic noise out of the cabin. I ended up making a square piece of aluminum to cover the opening on the right before I laid the black Cascade material down. Go for it!
A few more pics added as you requested by pm.
The big square hole on the right side and the speaker opening on the left are plenty big enough to maneuver the sheets. You can't use full size sheets of course, but a little overlap and a small wooden roller are all you need. It's much easier pulling the backing off before you put the sheets in the door. Just fold the sheets in 1/2 and insert them. It made a huge difference as far as how solid/heavy the doors feel when closing them and how much it blocks road/traffic noise out of the cabin. I ended up making a square piece of aluminum to cover the opening on the right before I laid the black Cascade material down. Go for it!A few more pics added as you requested by pm.
Originally Posted by A-man930
And how difficult was it to get the sheets inside the door?!
Last edited by HavATampa; May 31, 2011 at 10:14 PM.
Personally if you're going to do it go all out. You'll be suprised how big of a difference it'll make.
I used 155 sq/ft of RAMmat and 6 sq/yds of their sound deadening foam. Most places have two later's of the mat with the main area's having three. The door's, wheel wheels, speaker holes, etc.. have about four layer's of the mat and two layer's of the foam. The car feels COMPLETELY different now.
Here's some pictures of the install. The first pictures show the mat laid out and the last pictures show the foam over it.
I used 155 sq/ft of RAMmat and 6 sq/yds of their sound deadening foam. Most places have two later's of the mat with the main area's having three. The door's, wheel wheels, speaker holes, etc.. have about four layer's of the mat and two layer's of the foam. The car feels COMPLETELY different now.
Here's some pictures of the install. The first pictures show the mat laid out and the last pictures show the foam over it.
I used (2) bulk kits, (1) trunk kit, and (2) door kits:
Mind you, this will add a tremendous amount of weight, and if you are lowered already, this may drop you another 1/2" possibly. Def keep it to (1) layer in the rear IMO. Don't forget to get to the rear fenders too as far as you can! Of course much depends on HOW MUCH your enclosures/equipment weigh
I did nothing w/the headliner, and yes, I've already had my driver side window motor/regulator replaced, so this did not hinder the fix with the way my dynamat was installed.
Mind you, this will add a tremendous amount of weight, and if you are lowered already, this may drop you another 1/2" possibly. Def keep it to (1) layer in the rear IMO. Don't forget to get to the rear fenders too as far as you can! Of course much depends on HOW MUCH your enclosures/equipment weigh
I did nothing w/the headliner, and yes, I've already had my driver side window motor/regulator replaced, so this did not hinder the fix with the way my dynamat was installed.
Last edited by Firehawk526; Nov 16, 2006 at 06:20 PM.
