How to find battery drain?
How to find battery drain? I am having a problem with the battery getting drained in less than 3 days on the Camaro. Battery is an Optima yellow top (brand new so thats not the problem) and the alternator is brand new (so thats not it either). Can someone give me a run down on how to go about finding the draw? I have access to a mulitmeter and stuff so that won't be a problem.
Any help would be appreciated.
Thanks in advance,
Brian
Any help would be appreciated.
Thanks in advance,
Brian
THose can be tought to find. UNplug circuits one at a time.If you have any after market audio systems (amps) or other electronics, start with those. I had to unplug a bunch of stuff on my wifes Montero. It ended up being a short in the doorlock system.
The first step would be to check the steady state current draw across the positive battery lead.
Depending upon what the drain value is other people might be able to point you in the right direction.
You might also find that you have no steady drain, which will again re-focus your efforts.
Depending upon what the drain value is other people might be able to point you in the right direction.
You might also find that you have no steady drain, which will again re-focus your efforts.
Launching!
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From: San Diego, CA
sorry to revive an old thread, but i thought this would be appropriate here.
i'm trying to track down the same thing. When i disconnect my battery and hook up my ammeter in line, it starts out at 1.9 amps, then eventually settles down to 95-105 milliamps. are these numbers normal?
I'm asking because i've killed my battery a few times and i think its crapping out. I just want to make sure its not going to happen again before i invest in the optima.
i'm trying to track down the same thing. When i disconnect my battery and hook up my ammeter in line, it starts out at 1.9 amps, then eventually settles down to 95-105 milliamps. are these numbers normal?
I'm asking because i've killed my battery a few times and i think its crapping out. I just want to make sure its not going to happen again before i invest in the optima.
Last edited by jrtf83; Sep 22, 2006 at 02:18 AM.
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From: MD
Originally Posted by jrtf83
sorry to revive an old thread, but i thought this would be appropriate here.
i'm trying to track down the same thing. When i disconnect my battery and hook up my ammeter in line, it starts out at 1.9 amps, then eventually settles down to 95-105 milliamps. are these numbers normal?
I'm asking because i've killed my battery a few times and i think its crapping out. I just want to make sure its not going to happen again before i invest in the optima.
i'm trying to track down the same thing. When i disconnect my battery and hook up my ammeter in line, it starts out at 1.9 amps, then eventually settles down to 95-105 milliamps. are these numbers normal?
I'm asking because i've killed my battery a few times and i think its crapping out. I just want to make sure its not going to happen again before i invest in the optima.
Here are a few pointers. You need to make sure the BCM and car is not active for about 30 minutes so...
1. Make sure all doors, hatch, etc. are closed.
2. Use a jumper between the negative post and ground point on the passengerside.
3. Hook up your meter using clamps or some method where you can move back and forth.
4. Unhook the jumper.
After doing this if you're reading over 50 or 60 ma's you have an issue somewhere.
You now begin pulling fuses, you can start inside then work your way outside.
When you first open the door you are going to activate the bcm so the ma will jump up for awhile but then should go down. Now I have an aftermarket alarm so you're case may be different but my amerage stayed up due to the alarm watching the door. If you have stock or other alarm it may not do this. keep an eye on the numbers, write them down if need be and keep that in mind.
Now you can go 1 of 2 ways. You can pull all the fuses in the fusebox (as long as you're diagram on the cover is not missing), see what the reading is, then start replacing them, or you can pull and replace 1 at a time.
If this still doesn't show you the problem do the same with the engine bay fuses.
Keep in mind what kind of electrical modifications you have done. If after all fuses have been pulled and the ma's have not dropped you could have a short in the alternator. Unhook the power to the alternator. (MAKE SURE YOU DISCONNECT POWER WHEN DOING THIS!, don't ask me how I know.)
Repeat original procedure after alternator is unhooked.
It's a pain in the *** and can be time consuming. Good luck.
Last edited by Dal1as; Sep 22, 2006 at 06:05 PM.
i know this post is very old but i have drain issue..as the post stated above i have a few questions?
on number 2 below,do i disconnect the ground off the battery and then make a wire from the battery post to a ground?
number 3 below,where do you hook up the meter? do you hook it up on the negative terminal and the ground then disconnect the jumper?
1. Make sure all doors, hatch, etc. are closed.
2. Use a jumper between the negative post and ground point on the passengerside.
3. Hook up your meter using clamps or some method where you can move back and forth.
4. Unhook the jumper.
on number 2 below,do i disconnect the ground off the battery and then make a wire from the battery post to a ground?
number 3 below,where do you hook up the meter? do you hook it up on the negative terminal and the ground then disconnect the jumper?
1. Make sure all doors, hatch, etc. are closed.
2. Use a jumper between the negative post and ground point on the passengerside.
3. Hook up your meter using clamps or some method where you can move back and forth.
4. Unhook the jumper.
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From: Jacksonville, FL (originally from Toronto Canada)
There are steps in that list that are completely unnecessary. It is best to make sure the BCM has "gone to sleep" before testing - just leave the car alone for at least 10-15 minutes (30 minutes if you want). It is not necessary to close the doors... in fact, it is better to leave the driver's door open so you can access the fuse panel. The BCM will still "go to sleep" with the door open and the battery saver feature will shut off the courtesy lights as well.
No jumper wire is needed or even useful. Simply disconnect the negative battery cable from the battery and connect your multimeter between the cable end and the battery terminal (positive probe on the cable and negative probe on the battery). Set the meter to DC Amps and read the current draw on the battery (you may need to try different scales on your meter to get a reading). Then start removing fuses until you see an unexpected drop in current draw. The drain is on the circuit protected by that fuse.
No jumper wire is needed or even useful. Simply disconnect the negative battery cable from the battery and connect your multimeter between the cable end and the battery terminal (positive probe on the cable and negative probe on the battery). Set the meter to DC Amps and read the current draw on the battery (you may need to try different scales on your meter to get a reading). Then start removing fuses until you see an unexpected drop in current draw. The drain is on the circuit protected by that fuse.
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I use a test light in series
the bigger the load the brighter the test lamp
Or you can unhook both battery leads and use a 9v buzzer hooked between them
The tone will change or drop off completely when youve found the short/drain circuit by pulling fuses.
I like this best as I dont have to take my eyes off anything to monitor a meter or a test light.
You cant do this if you have a large cap for stereo.
the bigger the load the brighter the test lamp
Or you can unhook both battery leads and use a 9v buzzer hooked between them
The tone will change or drop off completely when youve found the short/drain circuit by pulling fuses.
I like this best as I dont have to take my eyes off anything to monitor a meter or a test light.
You cant do this if you have a large cap for stereo.
Bringing this one back once again. I have tested as whitebird explained. I'm getting a draw of 1.6a. I pulled every fuse in the inside and under the hood. Pulled all relays brakers etc. I have an aftermarket amp. I disconected this first no change. What else can be drawing that much that is not on a fuse? Can the Alternator be drawing current? starter? The starter is fused though and i should have seen the amps drop when the fuse was pulled. Also how much draw is normal? thanks guys
ok i found out that .50ma is the acceptable current draw. The meter i was using before does not have a ma setting and would still read 1.6 with the leads diconnected lol . I have another meter hooked up now that reads ma. i'm getting a reading of 3.47 . not sure if the bcm is still drawing power need to let it sit a little longer. i'll keep everyone posted. Anyone have any sugestions let me know.
